Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Did my normal search, yes I know how to use it properly.

Real quick and easy question which only some people will be able to answer.

With cold braking, how bad (or good) are the DS2500s in compairson to the RB74s? I've previously had RB74s and didnt really have a problem with them cold. I just had to remember to stand on the brakes at the end of my street, after that they were fine. From what I have found out, the DS2500s are a better pad for everything else. Just cold braking...

So really all Im asking is. If you have had RB74s and DS2500s in your car, for cold braking which was worse or better.

Thanks.

I've run RB74 and am running DS2500 on street now. And honestly i'm not impressed with the DS2500, they have no 'bite' maybe i've got a bad set. Don't get me wrong they stop me fine, but i have to put a bit of pressure on the pedal, even if warm.... where as when i put DS3000 in for track days, they bite nice and hard... doesn't take much pressure on the pedal.... but maybe i got a bad set?

The RB74 i found the same as you, hit them the first time and they are average, but after that they are ok...

I think i'm going to give endless a go for street pads when the DS2500 are out...

Well I replaced my RB74's with DS2500's. I found the Ferodo pad to be quieter, work & recover better at high temperatures, work better from cold & have good feel.

The key is to bed them in properly. If you don't you will suffer from the maladies listed above.

They are a better pad than the RB74.

oh. i can confirm this lack of bite. i have them on the rear of mine in ap 4 pots. and performance friction carbon metalics in the front.

for the life of me i cant get the rears to lock.

hence my master cyl thread

thays with 50/50 pressures. the pfc in the alcons just work to well. but im gettinfg some diferant rears with bigger pistons so theres more pressure aplied to the pad. curantly ive got 41.3/44.5 front and 27/27 in the rears. changing to 30/34 in the rear.

i want to get it to lock up so i can tune it properly. rite now all it does is cook the fronts cos the rears just arnt being efective at all.

any idaes?

I personally think the DS2500 are a great pad, had no problems at all. But my car barely sees the road more than 5 times a month, so anything brakes better than my work car :nyaanyaa: .

On the track the DS2500 worked VERY well, i was very impressed.

I have the 2500's... yeah not as much 'bite' as normal street pads but they are very linear... push harder and you slow down more;) didn't give me any problems at PI and I used them more than I should of because I was scared! lol

I hate spongy, bitey pads on the street... euros always have that soft peddle feel, I don't like it... and they tend to be much more dusty

oh. i can confirm this lack of bite. i have them on the rear of mine in ap 4 pots. and performance friction carbon metalics in the front.

for the life of me i cant get the rears to lock.

hence my master cyl thread

thays with 50/50 pressures. the pfc in the alcons just work to well. but im gettinfg some diferant rears with bigger pistons so theres more pressure aplied to the pad. curantly ive got 41.3/44.5 front and 27/27 in the rears. changing to 30/34 in the rear.

i want to get it to lock up so i can tune it properly. rite now all it does is cook the fronts cos the rears just arnt being efective at all.

any idaes?

Why put in a caliper with larger pots if you are already having issues with a lack of rear bias? It will only make it worse.

Check the pads aren't glazed & try removing some pad material fron the area closest to the hub ie increase the effective working diameter of the pad.

I've also had the ECB red stuff recomended, along with a halk pad, cant remember which one?

So lets throw them in there too. From what I have found they are all about the same level. With maybe the DS2500 being a bit more track friendly than street friendly.

Well I replaced my RB74's with DS2500's. I found the Ferodo pad to be quieter, work & recover better at high temperatures, work better from cold & have good feel.

The key is to bed them in properly. If you don't you will suffer from the maladies listed above.

They are a better pad than the RB74.

I thought i bedded them in properly, same way i usually bed in pads, go out do some big stops, get them cooking, then let them cool down without braking.... usually works.... Do you think i should try roughing them up and bedding in again? Maybe i'm just used to the bityness of the DS3000s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...