Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Recently fitted some new springs to my R33 GTS-t to raise it's belly off the ground (Was WAY too low)

Anyway, now that I've done this, I have a suspension "clunk" issue, mainly from the front drivers side.

I've been back under the car with a breaking bar and socket, and everything is as tight as can be, but I took some careful note of bushes etc, and to me, the bush at the bottom of the shock (in the eyelet) seems to have "come out" on both sides and it doesn't look to be sitting on the pin properly.

Can this cause my "ka klunk" as I ride over bumps to occur, and what parts should I run out to order to fix it.

I'm going away next thursday, and really want this fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165097-suspension-noises/
Share on other sites

With one of my R32s the front upper arms started making a clunking sound when they were worn. Have you got std rubber bushed upper arms in your car or the urethane ones?

When you refitted the springs did you tighten up the bushes with the car on the ground. From memory when you fit the upper arms you have to torque them up with the car on the ground, which is to ensure the twisting of the bushes(movement of the arm) is within the range that the rubber can take without breaking. It could be now that you have reset the height of the arm that there is wear in the arm from previous height or if the person who lowered the car actually did it properly you may now be forcing the arm into a range of movement that is outside what the rubber can take.

When you fit new arms they make special mention on how important it is to tighten the bolts while the car is on the ground and to me it makes sense to do the same when you alter the range of movement that the suspension arms will be going through by lowering/raising the car.

another cause of the knocking can be stuffed shocks - especially if stock shocks have been used with low springs, now that you have increased the range of movement of the shock I think it would highlight any probs the shock might have.

sorry for not narrowing the options but the above maybe worth considering.

may not be the case with you car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...