Pod Enclosure

[sky-017]

iv been thinking for ages how to design this and have tried several ideas , from a tight bowl around my pod , to trying to make bends with aluminium around the afm and cables etc.. iv seen some other designs out there , some work some dont ..

what iv done is basically scribed around the wheel gaurd , attatched the afm through the frame . i aslo have a CAI comming up through the stock intercooler hole which will feed my cold air ... although im hunting another idea where the stock snorkle was , although sold mine .. so im thinking of making something similar .

all i need to do now is prep and paint with some heat proof paint . possibly black so it looks stock - hehe

tell me what you think , here are some pic... cheers

[gee-180]

thats not bad actually, looks like it is fully enclosed i.e no hot engine bay air, just get a nice cold air feed and its set

[sky-017]

i ribbed the around all the joins with rubber , i have yet to do the top - but will rib that once painted. but yeah everything is tight and no gaps

[pablo101]

What material did you use? Is it aluminium?

If so, is the aluminium heat proof? And where do you get such aluminium?

Sorry about all the questions but I really would like to do something like this to my R32.

Edited April 19, 2007 by pablo101

[sky-017]

i was going to use aluminium ... but this stuff is like steel i think , its about 1.2 mm .. its not easy to work with . i didnt buy it , i picked up a few sheets around where i work , in an industrial area ... its easy to bend , but was tough to do the fold over on the top panel ... if i were to make some more id be considering using thinner material .. because itll make things so much better to work with ...

but im happy with how strong it feels ..

[R31Nismoid]

If you post up a few more details..

Like parts used, approx cost, tools required etc.

I'd like to move this over to the Fabrication section as its definately worthy of going there to help future people with stuff

Lemme know

Cheers!

[sky-017]

alright here are all the details i have on how to make this / and how much it cost .

tools needed :

- stanley knife

- tin snips

- grinder

- scissors

- pen / black marker

- 3 mm drill bit

- battery drill

- philips n1 bit - for drill / or screwdriver

- 76mm hole saw / H.S.S (quality is a must )

- 10 mm drill bit

- pliers

materials needed :

- cardboard ( approx 2 @ 400 mm x 200 mm ) = free if you can find.

- 1 - 2 mm aluminium / tin / steel .( approx 2 @ 400 mm x 200 mm ) = unsure on price . wont be more than $10

- 15mm philips head screws , threaded type = $3

- L type metal brackets = $5

- rubber from a fly screen / or safety - fold over protector = $7

basically this is really easy in writting but takes a bit of practice .

1/ get your card board . remove afm and anything in the way . the easiest way to scribe the shape of the wheel gaurd is to estimate the shape of the round and cut it on the carboard. also attempt to cut the part that runs flat along .. you can either do it in 2 peices then tape together .. or do it in one like i did

2/ once you have scribed the shape . transfer it onto the steel/tin you decide to use ... using high quality tin snips . cut out the shape . also cut a square approx 1 cm x 1cm for the cables to run through that sit on the flat part of the body .

3 / once you have cut it out onto the steel , grab your AFM . now trace the 4 screw holes . and measure and mark the centre for the 3 inch air flow hole (76mm) .

4 / collect your hole saw and drill the centre air flow hole .

5 / using a 10 mm bit or smaller drill the holes for the scews .

6 / on the aluminium - drill 2 holes aproxx 5 mm from the bottom , on on either side . these are to screw and hold the frame to the lower body .

7 /using the rubber from a fly screen . cut the length of the frame so the rubber can sit along the bottom of the body . grab your stanly knife and slice it all the way down the middle .now you can slide it onto the bottom of the frame .

8/make a bend in the frame . this has to be along the wheel gaurd. then screw the clips onto the frame / and screw the frame to a spot on the body .

9 / now grab your other piece of cardboard and sit it over the top . mark around the cardboard where the curve follows , and estimate the the angle of the front body .

10 / in between your estimations you will find you will need to cut more off and if your unlucky add more to your template .

11 / once this has been cut correctly . you will now trace it onto the other bit of steel/tin . although when cutting , add another 10mm along the straight edge to allow for the over hang / fold over.

12 / once you have traced , cut it out yet again - also mark the 10 mm line along the angled part . and sit it over the top for positioning . you will now need to mark the point where the angle meets . then you will cut a line 10mm so that you can have to seperate fold overs .

13/ using your pliers you will now bend the fold over to the line you marked..

14/ if you used thick material like i did , after bending and folding you may need to grind it down so its flush .

15 / now you should be able position it over the top .

16 / if all was done well , all you have to do is grap your L type brackets and sit them over the top and overhang on the sides... grab a pen . and mark the hole positioning . grab the drill and drill into the frame and top . last but not leastly , screw your screws in . now your DONE!...

17 / paint the frame and top for a more original look . specifically heat resistant paint .

i will post up some pics once i have painted mine ..

cheers = must add to DIY section or so forth .

[Marco-R34GTT]

iv been thinking for ages how to design this and have tried several ideas , from a tight bowl around my pod , to trying to make bends with aluminium around the afm and cables etc.. iv seen some other designs out there , some work some dont ..

what iv done is basically scribed around the wheel gaurd , attatched the afm through the frame . i aslo have a CAI comming up through the stock intercooler hole which will feed my cold air ... although im hunting another idea where the stock snorkle was , although sold mine .. so im thinking of making something similar .

all i need to do now is prep and paint with some heat proof paint . possibly black so it looks stock - hehe

tell me what you think , here are some pic... cheers

Well mate I reckon what you've done is a great job, simple yet effective.. However, I must ask this, what if one was to have a twin pod intake? obviously that would complicate things substancially....

[sky-017]

your talking a GTR i take it ? nothing is impossible , its more patience and accuracy . planning ahead is a must , basically if you make the right template , your set . also if 2 pods can fit in an engine bay on a GTR or anything for that matter , you will surely be able to make an enclosure with the right design.

[Marco-R34GTT]

Nah it is a GTT R34 actually, so it would be the turbo Rb25NEO. Just asking what your opinion would be, cause by the look of things, you've got a nack for this kinda stuff, I like what I see... I suppose as things become more cramped and congested, it would require one to be more meticulous and precise? I have seen some Skylines with twin pods... Do you think that twin pods would be a tight fit?

[sinistaGTR]

good to see someone actually having a go at stuff lol, looks like you have come up with a sweet design i used to have something similar with my stock set up thinking about redoing it again with my highmount.

[sky-017]

to marco :

iv seen the small baby apexi pod filters . they are tiney , but still an adverage size pod filter . it would just be more time consuming , you just need to think out how its going to be done .

thats the way i did mine . had a good look in the engine bay , thought for a day or 2 , went back and had another look - then i came to my decision of how i would go about . but bolting directly to the afm was the best idea

1 / it supports itself in the frame - which saves you mounting them .

2 / make the whole frame stronger .

if your thinking of doing a twin pod setup , PM me , id be more than willing to throw a few ideas at you with the easiest way to do it .

yet again thanks for the good comments guys , glad to see good work can be appreciated these days.. cheers

[JustinP]

Looks good. I am just about to make something like this for my R34, but I was thinking of using fibre glass to make it. I haven't worked with fibre glass before so hopefully it will go OK I was goind to do the same thing but make it fully enclosed if possible.

[MANWHORE]

Nice job there matey (not criticising your work), but imo, it defeats the idea of having a pod. the closer you get to fully enclosed, the closer you get to the stock airbox

[SECURITY]

Nice job there matey (not criticising your work), but imo, it defeats the idea of having a pod. the closer you get to fully enclosed, the closer you get to the stock airbox

how so?

he has a cold air feed to the pod from underneath it leading from his front bar. try doing that with the stock, restrictive, paper filter'd airbox.

good job with the box mate, looks very neat. only thing i'd suggest is insulating the inside of it somehow so the heat from the metal doesnt radiate into the pod.

[sky-017]

thanks for the comments fellas . i will be taking note of insulating the insides . pics will be up early tomorrow morning of how it comes out after is has been painted .

and also for those interested i will take a few photos of templates

[WogsRus]

Well done, very similar to my design, have a search. I found that lining the enclosure with some thermal foam helped a shipload.

[nizmokid]

With mine I use a heat proof material from ACL

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

[Birnie]

Love it.

Just for the sake of constructive critisism, well it's not even that..... It would top it off if you had some sort of clips instead of screws for easy access but i have no idea whats available.

Just an idea...

Looks kewl !

[sky-017]

yeah i was looking for a better method to attatch the top ... couldnt find anything really ... haha just thought of an idea . magnetic touch catch - no screws on the top needed.. lol