Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Z32 Air flow meters

I have Z32 Air Flow Meters. I have an orange sticker on each AFM with 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 printed on it. A Bosch cross reference document (see the link below) shows that both Bosch part numbers F00E000202 and 2268063107 are replacements. I am also told that they are cheaper than the Nissan part. There's a Tutorial on the Skylines Australia forum (see my main page for the link) on how to connect the wiring.

Z32 Air flow meters

I have Z32 Air Flow Meters. I have an orange sticker on each AFM with 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 printed on it. A Bosch cross reference document (see the link below) shows that both Bosch part numbers F00E000202 and 2268063107 are replacements. I am also told that they are cheaper than the Nissan part. There's a Tutorial on the Skylines Australia forum (see my main page for the link) on how to connect the wiring.

Spot on Paul, the Bosch units are around half the price of the Genuine Nissan unit.

AVCR, Defi Gauge, and seperate external gauge all read 1.2 bar - no boost leaks evident.

Try conecting one of the gauges to the compressor outlet and comparing the readings with another gauge connected to the plenum. You should see a slight loss across the intercooler and the pipework, a couple of psi only.

:P cheers :(

Rang the sponsor today and they have no hesitation in me sending back the AFM for a warranty replacement. When i purchased this, it did not arrive in a bosch box, rather, just a brown generic box, but in a clear plastic bag. The sponsor stated that a few of these had been returned last year due to the exact same reason of maxing out to early, and some customers weren't happy that they were received one without the genuine box. There is a 12 month warranty on the AFM, but I guess i'm one of the odd few, that just never got around to installing it until now. I've been advised that the replacement AFM will also be another new genuine item, but will be delivered with the genuine bosch box.

For those that asked if the right selection was made in the Power FC, yes it is set for Z32. We put the stock afm back on, and it operated at around 4.7 approx same power output.

No, there are no "China copy" AFM's on the market - That really is a stupid rumour :santa:

As far as I can tell, there was an early batch of Bosch AFM's that had some problems. I bought a pair of them for my GTR and when I discovered that they were misbehaving during tuning I contacted the shop I purchased them from and they confirmed that the issue with their behaviour was a known problem and had been taken up with the company that supplies many dealers in Australia.

Both of them were promptly replaced under warranty without question :thumbsup:

HI MY NAME IS "IM WRONG"

The mesh was exactly like this when it arrived. Other than that it looks like all the rest I've seen on here. Sending it off for replacement tomorrow.

1818103ri3.th.jpg1818105yb8.th.jpg1818108uy6.th.jpg1818115nt4.th.jpg1818116at1.th.jpg

1818117ua2.th.jpg1818120kj8.th.jpg

you are a value to community, thanks for taking the pics

ill put them on my site

HI MY NAME IS "IM WRONG"

Rather than come off like a wanker, why don't you try adding something a little more constructive to this thread :action-smiley-069:

The AFM's that I picked up for my GTR, came from the same dealer that _8OO5TED_ and silman's AFM's came from and were in the same white box with the mesh section that didn't look 'brand new' as I would have expected. I know

I was suitably unimpressed when my two new Z32 AFM's maxed out at 300awkw :P

I just phoned the shop that I bought them from yet again and they confirmed that the supplier that provides the Bosch AFM's to a number of shops around the country is the biggest Bosch distributor in Australia and apparently one of the batches they received came in these white boxes like mine did. They tell me that since raising the issue with the supplier company, all future deliveries they have received have come in original Bosch boxes and packaging and apparently they have had no issues since.

As far as I can see there no solid proof as yet to suggest that these bad ones actually came from China so for everyones sake I think its best that we all stick to facts rather than assumptions.

I guess the main thing to be weary of is make sure you get full warranty when buying, and purchase from a reliable dealer so if something should go wrong you can have it addressed immediately

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...