Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Z32 Air flow meters

I have Z32 Air Flow Meters. I have an orange sticker on each AFM with 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 printed on it. A Bosch cross reference document (see the link below) shows that both Bosch part numbers F00E000202 and 2268063107 are replacements. I am also told that they are cheaper than the Nissan part. There's a Tutorial on the Skylines Australia forum (see my main page for the link) on how to connect the wiring.

Z32 Air flow meters

I have Z32 Air Flow Meters. I have an orange sticker on each AFM with 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 printed on it. A Bosch cross reference document (see the link below) shows that both Bosch part numbers F00E000202 and 2268063107 are replacements. I am also told that they are cheaper than the Nissan part. There's a Tutorial on the Skylines Australia forum (see my main page for the link) on how to connect the wiring.

Spot on Paul, the Bosch units are around half the price of the Genuine Nissan unit.

AVCR, Defi Gauge, and seperate external gauge all read 1.2 bar - no boost leaks evident.

Try conecting one of the gauges to the compressor outlet and comparing the readings with another gauge connected to the plenum. You should see a slight loss across the intercooler and the pipework, a couple of psi only.

:P cheers :(

Rang the sponsor today and they have no hesitation in me sending back the AFM for a warranty replacement. When i purchased this, it did not arrive in a bosch box, rather, just a brown generic box, but in a clear plastic bag. The sponsor stated that a few of these had been returned last year due to the exact same reason of maxing out to early, and some customers weren't happy that they were received one without the genuine box. There is a 12 month warranty on the AFM, but I guess i'm one of the odd few, that just never got around to installing it until now. I've been advised that the replacement AFM will also be another new genuine item, but will be delivered with the genuine bosch box.

For those that asked if the right selection was made in the Power FC, yes it is set for Z32. We put the stock afm back on, and it operated at around 4.7 approx same power output.

No, there are no "China copy" AFM's on the market - That really is a stupid rumour :santa:

As far as I can tell, there was an early batch of Bosch AFM's that had some problems. I bought a pair of them for my GTR and when I discovered that they were misbehaving during tuning I contacted the shop I purchased them from and they confirmed that the issue with their behaviour was a known problem and had been taken up with the company that supplies many dealers in Australia.

Both of them were promptly replaced under warranty without question :thumbsup:

HI MY NAME IS "IM WRONG"

The mesh was exactly like this when it arrived. Other than that it looks like all the rest I've seen on here. Sending it off for replacement tomorrow.

1818103ri3.th.jpg1818105yb8.th.jpg1818108uy6.th.jpg1818115nt4.th.jpg1818116at1.th.jpg

1818117ua2.th.jpg1818120kj8.th.jpg

you are a value to community, thanks for taking the pics

ill put them on my site

HI MY NAME IS "IM WRONG"

Rather than come off like a wanker, why don't you try adding something a little more constructive to this thread :action-smiley-069:

The AFM's that I picked up for my GTR, came from the same dealer that _8OO5TED_ and silman's AFM's came from and were in the same white box with the mesh section that didn't look 'brand new' as I would have expected. I know

I was suitably unimpressed when my two new Z32 AFM's maxed out at 300awkw :P

I just phoned the shop that I bought them from yet again and they confirmed that the supplier that provides the Bosch AFM's to a number of shops around the country is the biggest Bosch distributor in Australia and apparently one of the batches they received came in these white boxes like mine did. They tell me that since raising the issue with the supplier company, all future deliveries they have received have come in original Bosch boxes and packaging and apparently they have had no issues since.

As far as I can see there no solid proof as yet to suggest that these bad ones actually came from China so for everyones sake I think its best that we all stick to facts rather than assumptions.

I guess the main thing to be weary of is make sure you get full warranty when buying, and purchase from a reliable dealer so if something should go wrong you can have it addressed immediately

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One other thing worth mentioning when I did this job I only jacked up the driver side as I was only doing work there, but from what I understand both wheels should be in the air when removing the sway bar links?
    • Yep it's an r34. Usually people remove struts without removing the front upper control arm (fuca is what i assume this is?) So not sure why mine wouldn't fit. I know on my other car I did a similar job and it wouldn't fit until I removes the ball joint nut even though I didn't remove it prior.   The upper arm doesn't seem to be in the way (the part that's bolted to the chassis. The part that's bolted onto the j arm I'll check that out though.   I was going to compress the spring and put it in with the compressor attached but not sure if it will work  Haven't seen anyone do it.
    • I have a small lip on the boot of the E90 and I've been toying with the idea of trying to mould it in to the boot to remove the gaps. I guess shaving the seams? No idea what the terminology is here.  What I'm wondering is, if it's current double sided taped down, what would I do to more permanently attach it so it makes a good base for the filler? It only has edges so no way to bolt it down unless I add some braces. I've done a lot of fibre glassing in my time so that's nice and easy but I'm not sure what my options are here.  Sorry, this is the best pic I have and I'm 4 million ks from home ATM.  
    • Based on this comment I went googling. A052's in the sizes I want are certainly not cheap, but I couldn't find anything in the V70A anywhere. How much do they run/where do they get sourced from? From what I know (nothing but internet searches and reviews etc) the R888 has pretty much fallen off from anyone's actual use, and the AO52 is the king of "road legal" rubber. Nobody is driving around on their daily for Z221, AO050, DZ03G. At that point, for purely track only tyres - Why not buy actual slicks? Why does nobody actually do that anyway?
    • This an R34? It shouldn't matter though - it should be the same as on any of the others, and by "any of the others" I mean R32, because that is the car that I have had the front end apart on about 50 times this year. Sometimes, it is much easier to get the lower shock eye onto that pin when: a) you have the upper shock nuts backed off a few turns so you can wiggle it a bit more freely. When they are tight the bottom of the strut is much harder to move that _leeeetle_ bit you might need it to to win the fight. b) you have the outer bolt(s) from the FUCA out and so you can move the lower pin around freely too. Then, all you have to do is put the upper arm back on when you've got the rest back together, and this is where jacking under the balljoint can help.
×
×
  • Create New...