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So has anyone had any problems with the tomei z32 AFM (these are actually a genuine nissan but are sold by tomei) from nengun??

Im guessing it wont have any problems as its a nissan z32 but i havnt read anything about them on this thread so im not 100% sure.

Link:

http://www.nengun.com/tomei/air-flow-meter-z32

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Birnie - is you new AFM working well now? Has it been tuned.

1. Is there any comparison Dodgy vs New with regards to volts at idle?

2. Anyway we can tell a bad one before the tuner has almost completed a tune

I am getting a new one, making sure it doesn't have the Nissan embossing but not sure what else I can do..

Cheers fellas

1. Not sure, mine seems to be the correct idle volts compared to others give or take 10mvs (about 1080 at idle)

2. Easy if your in the tuning process already, he'll say something like "that's funny, it's maxed out already?" and you'll only be on about 0.9 bar or 12-13psi with an aftermarket turbo.

They do work (the dodge ones) just maz out early and it's mines a tad jumpy in the ealry revs. I sometimes stall on a light load take off but i've adjusted my driving to get past that. Still sucks though.

I've seen photos of another Z32 and the mesh looked fantastic compared to mine. Looks like mine was taken off a cheap kitchen siv.

I thought the mesh was OK untill i saw a good one.

Anyway, i've ordered a new one and waiting for it to be delivered.

When i swap it over, i'll definately take photo's of both side by side for comparison.

The new one is a Tomei item although, apparently their Z32's are just original Nissan ones boxed by Tomei which is fine by me, as long as it's geniune

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update guys,

First of all, I'll just say (Borat style) I am a reeetard !

Ok, now that's out of the way.

I've been a big DIY fan for 2 reasons, 1) $$$$ and 2) i plain want to know.

Last time i did my sparkies, i pulled the intake pipe off which i think makes it 10 times easier, but noticed a week later i hadn;t even done up the return clamp for the BOV!

No big deal really, just annoyed me cause i missed it. Fixed in 30secs. End of story.

Today i thought i'd finally plug up the whole for the exhaust temp sensor drilled in the turbo.

Off to Pirtek, got the plug, found out whas originally their was a grease nipple with the spring burnt out....LEAK ! (number 1)

Fixed with w new plug...$4. sweet :thumbsup:

Went for a drive to see if it would spool quicker, no boost showing on the Power FC display but there is on my Blitz ???

Pull over, can hear the leak, the original vacuum tube for the original boost gauge whicvh i was using had cracked.

Off to Super Cheap for some new tube. Leak fixed (number 2) for a total of $2.99.....double sweet.

....but hang on a second?

What's that loose clamp there?

I'd done it again but this time worse.

The final large clamp that goes onto the throttle body was as loose as a goose, i ould fit my finger in the gap.

There is no way it would have rattyled loose that much, i forgot to do it up when i changed my injectors Grrrrrrr !

That would be causing a MAJOR leak !

I still made 1.15 bar but it took awhile to get there and i always maxed the AFM.

That's now tightened (leak 3)

NOW! Is my AFM dodgey or not? (hopefully not)

Boost is coming on quicker as it should after fixing 3 freeegan leaks.

Now i get 4500 on the AFM when i hit 0.9bar, before it was maxed at 0.9bar which makes sense considering the extra air it would have had to push to make that pressure.

Can other tell me what AFM reaading you ge on the Power FC at the approx same level?

0.9bar or 13psi (i think)...using a HKS2535.

A high flow prolly gives similar readings.

Anything you got, please post it up.

Thanks peeps.

Hopefully i've saved some cash here (after wasting some) but i'll still need another retune of course.

So Birnie,

Do you think your first AFM may not have been faulty? Or are you still using the first one?

It is time consuming when doing mods etc - I don't think I will modify anymore street cars after this.

The workshops do similar jobs everyday..and they still make similar or worse mistakes.

Hope you get it all sussed.

That's what I'm hoping.

THE AFM reading has definatley dropped when on boost since fixing the leak.

I'm now waiting to hear what other are getting.......anyone ???

If the AFM is not faulty (fingers crossed), I'm gunna have an extra one in a few weeks cause i already paid for another....

But it should sell close to what i paid for it so better off getting some money back than none.

You're gunna stoop modifying?

This is about the 1st real hiccup I've had and even though it's been frustrating, it's been interesting and a learning experience.

Don't stop now ! :domokun:

Gave it another blat on the way home on 0.9psi...

It hit the last cell (verticle) in the 20x20 map so right on maxing out.

This sucks....still, like i said, a new one on the way

Hey, No way in hell You should be hitting load-cell 20 on 0.9 bar!! ! (unless there's been some MEGA dodgey FCDataLogit work)

My Z32 AFM struggles to crack 4v at 200rwkw (13psi@6,800rpm). It's 2nd hand ex-300ZX, with dodgey dinted mesh downstream of the sensor wires - which is ok since I got it cheap, and the "upstream" mesh is fine.

At 1.3bar it's making 190kw at 5500rpm, but then it just flatlines the power curve. Even at 1.5 bar it gives slightly better mid range, but the same flattening out of the power curve occurs. The boost does not drop off at all with the AVCR, it holds steady to redline. My tuner thinks it's the justjap intercooler I bought, and suggested that I replace it for a thicker ARC item with low pressure loss. The AVCR Duty cycle is at 40% and holds boost steady. Knock count is at 14 W.O.T. with an AFR of 10.0 from 6000rpm to redline.

Should I put money towards an ARC intercooler, or should I install a set of 256/264 hks camshafts next?

Is the 1.8mm headgasket lowering compression so much that it is effecting the amount of boost I have to run to reach my target of 250kw?

How thick is the normal headgasket? what's your compression ratio now? Have U tested the pressure drop across the I/C?

Anyhoo: lower compression = less power (if everything else stays the same) because the engine is less efficient. The upside is that it's less likely to ping/knock, so U can wind in more boost.

umm, if I were you, I'd spend the money on another tuner first, preferably with "knock cans" 10:1 AFR ? ? ? W.T.F. ? ?

Try 12:1 or even 12.6:1 since U got lower than stock compression. Just back off the timing a touch if she starts knocking.

(I'm on 12.5:1 from 5k->redline, 3.5 trackdays and 30,000+km in, and still all good)

I have an apexi top mount cast manifold, and found out that the gasket that sits between the external wastegate flange and my tial external, has a leak. I haven't had time to take the car in yet, but will next Tuesday. A few weeks back when I posted here, we could not hear the leak, but now it is audibly loud from as ealy as 2500rpm.

We're thinking the cast manifold must have a slight warp on the surface where the wastegate is bolted to which is a pain, because it will have to be removed to be machined.

Hey, No way in hell You should be hitting load-cell 20 on 0.9 bar!! ! (unless there's been some MEGA dodgey FCDataLogit work)

My Z32 AFM struggles to crack 4v at 200rwkw (13psi@6,800rpm). It's 2nd hand ex-300ZX, with dodgey dinted mesh downstream of the sensor wires - which is ok since I got it cheap, and the "upstream" mesh is fine.

Hrmm.. Makes me wonder what sort of power mine is making these days.

Might throw it on the dyno if I get time before I bolt the new turbo on.

I'm running a little vg30det turbo (rb20det compressor wheel with the rb25 comp cover and larger r34 style op6 turbine housing), pushing 11psi I'm seeing 4.3v on cold mornings/nights (4.29v during the day) from my Z32 and its flat lining load point 17 from 2000rpm to 6000rpm where it lifts to load point 16 and then 15 by 6500rpm.

Last time it was on the dyno it made 180rwkw by 4000rpm but then fell over due to floating springs.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just fitted my Z32 AFM.

Selected VG30 AFM on the PFC and the car idles fine and drives fines.

What I did notice is that the inj duty cycle at idle was 1.6% where it usually is 1.1-1.2v. I had to add some correction to the AFM table. Dropped the 1.26v down to about 80 or 85% which brought it back a bit. Will just have to keep an eye on the knock and not give it too much till I get the tune.

Still have some reversion though which I hope can be tuned out.

Birnie - you got your car all sorted yet?

Edited by benl1981
Birnie - you got your car all sorted yet?

Still waiting for the part to be delivered.

Looking at the Courier Tracking, it should be here tommorrow. (took ages !)

I'll do an oil change and sparkies.

change the AFM and get it tuned,

I'll let you know what happens.................

Nice one Birnie. I hope my z32 doesnt have the max out early prob like yours. Yeah keep us up to date :thumbsup:

Yeah Paul I realise that. The percentage changes where it grabs the fuel and ign values from the tables.

Should be ok for me to drive for a few weeks till I fit injectors and pump. Thought it might run a little rough

Edited by benl1981

Ok. Comparing the Z32 to R33 AFM.

Maxing out 5115mv on the old AFM at around 5500rpm.

Everything unchanged the new AFM reaches 4335mV

I have had to adjust the percentage on the AFM trimming a lot though to get inj duty back to near where it was. around 85% in the lower voltages and about 85-90% in the higher voltages.

Anyways I'm at ~180rwkw with 4335mV so should be enough resolution to easy get 240rwkw.

Can someone please run map trace and rev it hard to about 4-5k rpm in 2nd then back off the throttle quick. Does the dot move to the top then back down even when throttle is fully closed.

I'm trying to determine if this is unique to this turbo or not.

Thanks

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