Need Custom Exhaust Manifold For Neo

[ovabooster]

Well this is the last part on my list before I send my engine away to get rebuild.....I am looking for a place to get a custom tunned lengthen manifold......Has to be mild steel or steam pipe and none of that crappy stainless that cracks....And this is the smoking gun.....Has to take the standard turbo position as I have a HKS GT2835 Pro S kit! 6boost is a place Ive tried but they werent much help in the way of getting one made up to fit my turbo.....So what workshops or people do u guys recommened???

cheers

[R31Nismoid]

Stainless isnt crappy, and stainless does not crack.

If the manifold is correctly made using good grade stainless, it will last.

Being the one from my car has been around for 20 years, never cracked

Just thought i'd clarify that as you seem to have some bad info there.

Also to note that your going to be paying some serious $$$. Listing your location generally is a good idea dude.

Does the kit not include a manifold? Or is it meant to bolt upto the stock one?

[PIG747]

hey mate if ur in sydney and want a steam pipe manifold made up pm me and ill give u a number of a guy that does them.... ur looking at about $900 for a custom one made out of steam pipe from this guy but hes good

[ovabooster]

my head is full of crap then...as i've been hearing stainless are crap...must be down to the grade of steel used i guess...does stainless retain the heat better then steam pipe? Im from perth unfortunately

[ovabooster]

and my turbo kit is to suit the standard manifold aswell

[T04GTR]

Stainless isnt crappy, and stainless does not crack.

If the manifold is correctly made using good grade stainless, it will last.

Being the one from my car has been around for 20 years, never cracked

Just thought i'd clarify that as you seem to have some bad info there.

Also to note that your going to be paying some serious $$. Listing your location generally is a good idea dude.

Does the kit not include a manifold? Or is it meant to bolt upto the stock one?

stainless isnt crap. but it isnt as durable as steel. the factory gtsr manifold is awsome. but its a factory engineered item. not a copy of a copy lol.

the pipe doesnt crack its the welding wich givs way. if its not done corectly.

[R31Nismoid]

The welding on the GTS-R manifold is pretty average though

When we took mine off, you can tell its a factory style one as there is lots of areas you would tidy them up as lots of uneven work, not really matched that well to the ports etc.

Its just stuff you'd expect when paying $1500 for one that you dont see on a factory item even if 800 (plus spares) were only made

[r33_racer]

may i ask why you want a custom manifold for such a pissy turbo in the std position?

[discopotato03]

Just my 2c worth , if its a kit designed to fit the std exhaust manifold you could do worse than just run it that way and see what you think . I think you'll be pushing it uphill with the proverbial pointy stick trying to get an aftermarket manifold to do much better than the std one with the turbo in the standard position . HKS's bolt on kit assumes its going onto a std manifold and the plumbing is designed to work around std fittings . Once you go down the non std manifold road a lot of effort and money goes into making everything miss potentially red hot components .

Honestly if it were me I would leave the std manifold there , unless you planned to extrude hone it and fit the kit as intended .

Often cast manifolds particularly factory ones are quite durable and not as shoddy performance wise as many people think .

I'd imagine Cubes will step in soon and mention the sorts of power figures that these manifolds are good for and if its in step with the turbos potential there may be very little (if anything) lost over an expensive to buy/fit/plumb around tubular one .

2 cents spent , cheers Adrian .

[extreme turbo manifolds]

i can make you a manifold that will exceed your expectations,but fitting it to the factory location is impossible.

if you must stay in the factory location,use the factory manifold and be happy.

[ovabooster]

my car is 100% street driven..thus i want max response and driveablity...My engine is fully rebuilt with forgies and can handle the power from any other bigger turbo...But I went with the gt2835 which i think is best suited to my application without sacrificing response/power and vice versa. Therefore I want to modify everything i can to max the turbo's potenial. These turbos tend to drop off boost higher in the rpm range even with the .87 a/r that i gave....A tunned length manifold may help

[R31Nismoid]

The turbo drops off because of the compressor map, not because of the manifold

[ovabooster]

from what i have been reading...they start to drop off around 16psi....but surely they can handle 20-21psi?

[R31Nismoid]

Not every turbo can run "20psi"

Its all about efficiency of the turbo. While one turbo will run upto 35psi and make power, another turbo will only be good for 12psi.

[ovabooster]

people on here have ran 1.4-1.5 bar....made 300-320rwkw.....grenpin and infected flow to name a few.....so no doubt they are still effective at this boost level.....just a matter of holding it there....possible restrictive air flow? inlet plenum and manifold wont help?

[R31Nismoid]

420ps - 414hp - 312kw before you even get to the rear end of the car.

Give a +/- 20rwkw for dyno differences and then 270-280 pops up easily enough.

Where are the dyno sheets you speak of? I cant find them anywhere to check out.

[AndrewD]

Id have to agree with R31 Nismoid here. I normally dont, so its obviously an exceptional circumstance

ovabooster,

you should really get your facts right. stainless steel while not being as ductile as plain carbon steel is not a 'crap' material for manifolds. in actual fact its better suited to the application primarily because of its corrosion inhibitors and some grades actually have higher strength at elevated temperatures.

R31 has already mentioned that most turbos have an operating range in terms of pressure ratio, which given some assumptions about inlet pressure similar in magnitude to atmospheric then you can estimate maximum manifold pressure.

The turbocharger your running can probably run the kind of pressure your after, however you will find that your intake temperatures become eccessive and that you will actually lose power because you will have to a run less fuel (less air density), run richer (contradictory to my last statement but think about it) to cool the charge, and more timing to reduce detonation.

Spend your money on the manifold how you like. Its not going on my car.

[STATUS]

may i ask why you want a custom manifold for such a pissy turbo in the std position?

280-odd at the wheels is hardly pissy..... i would have picked a 3037s but the 2835 is no slouch on a 25 providing it is the 0.87 not the 0.68

my 180 made 260+ @ 1.2bar with the tight ass model (HKS 2835 56t with a 0.61)

Edited April 24, 2007 by URAS