Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI,

Im going to the dyno and thought Id post up to see if any1 can guess how much power I will make...

Mods are

-r33 Rb25det stock

-Automatic

-Hi-flow turbo - R33 front hi-flowed and VG30 rear housing. Other specifics unknown.

-FMIC

-3inch exhaust with split dump, wrapped. Old hi-flow 2 mufflers, quiet.

-Rb20det wastegate actuator 10psi

-SAFCII

-Stock fuel pump, no reg, stock AFM.

-Thats it..

Getting tuned by HITMAN at Race Solutions in Penrith.

I will post up results hopefully tomorow...

Have a guess...

Disclaimer: No prizes included. :D

Cheers Liz and Daniel

________________________________________________________________________________

____

I GOT RESULTS BACK - We are suprised with the results and Matt done a great job....

234.9RWKW@11/12psi.( I dont know why it ran the higher psi as it has an rb20 acuator on it.

Only issue I had was with the spark plugs, it was blowing out the spark at this boost level, there copper and were gapped to 1.1 now Matt regapped them to 0.65.

He didnt mention anything about fuel, afm or anything and they were working quite well at this boost level..

I am curious to see what it will do when i finish what I want to do with it, just a few more minor mods.

AFR's were good to between 11.8 t 12.0.

________________________________________________________________________________

_____

After all this now to the next stage..

The plan is to go to WSID on anzac day...GUESS what time I will run????

Im thinking 13.5@105mph with a 2.2 60ft as the car doesnt move much until 4000rpm where is wheel spins until second then just pulls and pulls...im just worried about the auto...getting heak soaked/slipping or dying..

________________________________________________________________________________

________________

Update;

AUTO DIED 4/5 months later..Going manual now and modifying a little more..See page 3 for full list of upgrades and changes.

post-28122-1177063692.jpg

post-28122-1177063726.jpg

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im hoping to do that before the Sau dyno day..but money money money...

I want to do a few more mods, so it can handle 18psi.

Im yet to decipher if the SAFCII is up to the task of running the engine safely at anything above 18psi..

Cheers

its how well the tuner can tune it

but it will become a comprimise solution at some point in time

there will be a point where its advancing the timing too much

which induces detonation so it will drop the low octane map

so you have to back it off a little and keep it conservative

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...