Going Auto To Manual....need Some Advice

[nsta]

Few questions.....im going r33 '94 auto to manual (rb25det series 1)

1) what do i need to buy?i mean everything, im making a list, and saving up right now....

2)should i keep the stock auto diff, i heard its better?

3) ive decided on a full monty jim berry clutch as im aiming for 250-300rwkw, and machining the stock flywheel

4)does the auto ecu need to come out?

5)can i keep the auto dash?

6)what problems are most encountered?

over here in nz, gearboxes sell for around $1500-1800nz, but i dont know what i need to make sure is included

[dished33]

Few questions.....im going r33 '94 auto to manual (rb25det series 1)

1) what do i need to buy?i mean everything, im making a list, and saving up right now....

2)should i keep the stock auto diff, i heard its better?

3) ive decided on a full monty jim berry clutch as im aiming for 250-300rwkw, and machining the stock flywheel

4)does the auto ecu need to come out?

5)can i keep the auto dash?

6)what problems are most encountered?

over here in nz, gearboxes sell for around $1500-1800nz, but i dont know what i need to make sure is included

Ok man i did a manual conversion on a s13 180sx and this is what was needed:

Gearbox, ensuring it comes with clutch fork

Tailshaft,

clutch pedalbox, master cylinder and slave cylinder and the hydraulic hose to join the two up,

clutch kit with new release bearing and spigot bush/bearing

machined flywheel

flywheel bolts

ensure you have the correct amount of bell housing bolts

gearbox oil

gearknob and trim for gearstick

A brake pedalbox should also be a preffered inclusion as the you have correct pedal setup but we did just cut the auto one down as a cheaper option

I would prefer the manual diff as the ratios are shorter and make it drive the way it should from factory as in the 180 the auto diff is two high geared and creates problems with lag and general driveability

The auto computer can be used but if so the inhibitor/selector switch must be taken off the auto and placed somewhere, preferably in the engine bay and switched into the position of park or neutral so the engine will start, can be used as a handy immobiliser haha.. the dash light may come on for the auto or the power switch may flash with the auto ecu as it will register diagnostic codes

The reverse lights have to be wired into the reverse swith on the gearbox instead of the inhibitor/selector switch

When you first drive the car the gearbox will most likely be noisy as they sit around for a long time without oil in them but does go quiet after some driving, reccomend changing the oil in gbox after about 1000km to get rid of any shit from the gearbox

you will need drill bits and preferably a metal holesaw to cut firewall for clutch master cylinder to fit through

thats about all i can think of man just a guide hope it is of some use to you, have fun!

[crofte]

I had the same idea a while back. I decided against it because it costs about 4k. Why do you want a manual anyway? Get a shift kit and valve body beef up. supposed to handle 300rwkw. Autos all the way buddy. Boost holds better in a straight line aslo.

[nsta]

what type of shift kit?, and how much for a valve body beefup like you say???....also i dont have ecus i can play with to tune the auto

Edited April 24, 2007 by nsta