R33 Series 2 Wreck. & Series 1 Front.
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Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and... -
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The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight and spanner checked a week later.
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By weikleenget · Posted
Is the problem that we just disconnected the line, does it need to be plugged? I’d rather not buy another master cylinder -
Clutch is same same. Tailshaft is not. Diff will drop in. Half-shafts will not mate up (5x1 on turbo, 3x2 on NA). There is also the strong possibility that your auto NA gets its speed signal from the sensor on the diff, not the gearbag, and that will leave you without a speedo. You can do all this, you just have to do a lot more than you thought.
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