My R34 Died..

[Mikyel]

Hi guys..

I got the R34 GTT..

everything is normal when i turn on in da morning and drive bout 60 km..

when i was in the freeway i slow down,

suddenly the boost controller turned off(greddy e-01)

and than all the light are on and the car turned off..

when i trying to start it again, wasnt been able to do so..

when i check, the boost controller cable came off, the positive and neg, and option..

it seems theres no spark to start the car.. but just got new spark plug and splitfire coilpack installed about 4 months ago..

could it be the engine comp..

where is the best place tolook first, and where is a good mechanic who can check from my house near seven hills cause i got it towed to my house

Thanks in advance, need my car back on the road..

[lingeringsoul]

did the engine ever have trouble turning over when you start it up? I had the same problem before when it crapped out on me at the end of the m2. problem was the battery was dying and decided to die right there right then. Try getting a new battery and start it up again. Maybe it could be the alternator problem???? hope that helps

[Mikyel]

it never gives problem before, always start spot on..

what if i start jump start the car before buyin new batt..

[lingeringsoul]

I wouldn't recommend jump starting,

borrow a friend's battery

start the car with that

keep the car running and replace your old battery

drive for an hour turn it off and try to start the car next day

hope that helps

[Mikyel]

no prob.. that will be first option..

anyone else..

what if i change the engine comp with friend r34.. will it damage the other comp if its the comp problem in my car..

[NewKleer]

have you checked all your fuses? including the big ones in the engine bay?

what electronic parts work? headlights, fans, parker lights, internal lights, horn, etc?

does engine turn over?

if u dont have a multimeter, you should probably get one

[Mikyel]

I ONLI CHECK ALL THE SMALL ONE, AND THEY IN GOOD COND..

ALL LIGHT WORKING, HEAD, PARKER,INSIDE, AIR CON,RADIO..

THE CAR GIVES A KICK OVER BUT WONT START..

I GOT AMULTIMETER, BUT WHERE TO CHECK FIRST..

I TEST THE BATT AND IT STILL GOOD

[NewKleer]

so the starter motor is working fine, engine will crank over but not start?

"when i check, the boost controller cable came off, the positive and neg, and option.."

are u saying the wires came loose?

check the fuses in the engine bay if there are any? fusable link/loop of wire ones?

short 12Vign and Check for 2 seconds, until engine light starts blinking. count long blinks then short blinks.

5 long, 5 short = all OK. anything else is an error code for some sensor fault

[Mikyel]

so the starter motor is working fine, engine will crank over but not start?

"when i check, the boost controller cable came off, the positive and neg, and option.."

are u saying the wires came loose?

check the fuses in the engine bay if there are any? fusable link/loop of wire ones?

short 12Vign and Check for 2 seconds, until engine light starts blinking. count long blinks then short blinks.

5 long, 5 short = all OK. anything else is an error code for some sensor fault

YES THE CABLE COME LOOSE, IT SUPPOSE TO BE A PLUG, BUT LOST THE CABLE SO I USE THIS SMALL METAL THING TO CONNECT TO THE PIN..

SO 3 DIFFERENT CABLE INSTEAD OF A PLUG..

WITH THE PIC U GAVE ME, WHERE IS THAT PLUG FROM, AND WHAT YOU MEAN BY SHORT IT AND CHECK....

THANKS FOR THE REPLY

[NewKleer]

sorry, thats the consult port, its located in the fuse box area (attached to the top/bottom of fuse box probably).

short = get a paper clip and connect the two pins (push ends of paper clip into the connector at those positions)

then watch the light on the dash flashing, and work out the fault code if any from number of long/short flashes.

[Mikyel]

AH COOL..

TRY THAT TOMMORROW.. SO AFTER 2 SEC I TAKE THE PIN OUT AND JUST CHECK THE LIGHT..

NOTHIN ELSE WILL HAPPEN RIGHT..

[Mikyel]

WHAT ABOUT CHECK THE LED ON THE ECU, IS THAT FOR R34 OR R32 AND 33..

[NewKleer]

cant remember if the ECU will have an LED on it (older ecu's do). thats much harder to do anyway.

so yeah, take the wire out after 2 seconds (or after it starts flashing). it wont do any damage (just get the right pins, theyre the ones on the flat side of connector)

[Mikyel]

Thanks for all the reply for such period of time.. hopefully find out the fault tommorrow and let you guys know...

dont want anyone feel the same way as i do having my car broke down on the freeway

[Mikyel]

try connecting it with pin..

nothin flashes.. why is that..

[NewKleer]

woops, was ignition turned on? (on reds, not started)

[Mikyel]

THE CAR IS ON NOW BUTT BATTERY LIGHT IS ON WONT TURN OFF.. I TAKE PLUS AND NEG OFF THE BATTERY FOR WHOLE NIGHT

YOU THINK THIS CAUSE THE PROBLEM, OR ANYTHING ELSE I CAN CHECK BEFORE GOIN MECHANIC..

[NewKleer]

i dont understand what you mean. when u turn the car on (but not start), the battery light will be on (like the other few lights that light up). or do you mean the battery light is on when the car is off?

[Mikyel]

sorry,let me explain again..

now the car is on and started..

when its on ignition all the warning light are on,like tcs,slip,batt,handbrake.. etc

when i start the car, seatbelt,handbrake are on like normal, also the battery light

and it wont turn off.

[NewKleer]

r34 has voltmeter gauge? 12V when car IGN on, 13.5-14V when car is running

if its less than 13.5V when car running, alternator may be dead. i dont personally know with the R34, but my guess is that the battery light staying on means the voltage isnt above 13.5V or so, as alternator isnt working right (so your battery will eventually run out if it isnt charged)

ensure all fuses in engine bay are OK