Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have the 2530 strapped onto my rb20 atm with a few other supporting mods.

as soon as a dyno day comes around, it'll be on the dyno getting a power figure. hoping for around 200kwrw on about 1-1.1bar.

gotta sort out the running rich issue first tho.

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i have the 2530 strapped onto my rb20 atm with a few other supporting mods.

as soon as a dyno day comes around, it'll be on the dyno getting a power figure. hoping for around 200kwrw on about 1-1.1bar.

gotta sort out the running rich issue first tho.

Which ecu?

If you cant afford a pfc to fix the rich issue, try a SAFC?

Just for the record those HKS GT2535's are really just a 2530 with a slightly larger dinosaur 6/12 blade compressor tossed in because Garrett weren't doing the 71.1mm GT35 series compressors at that time like in later GT2871R/GT-RS type turbos . If you got a GT2871R 48T and bolted the HKS T3 flanged turbine (exhaust) housing to it you would have the same approximate deal with a more modern compressor wheel .

HKS got into Garretts GT ball bearing turbos early and for this reason had some combinations of mainly compressors that they don't use today . This is why turbos like 2510's , 2535's and 2540's are no longer made , better combinations developed with later thinking has made them redundant .

Roll on the twin scroll twin integral gate turbos like IHI is supplying to Subaru because they are the way of the future .

Cheers A .

My RB25 HKS 2535, combo made 244rwkw 14psi stock inj and AFM running a PFC.

I then bought injectors, Z32 boost controller etc, no more peak power but a massive amount of midrange was gained from 18psi... The extra boost totally transformed the car!

That same turbo is now on a mates car running 250rwkw at 15psi (i think) with the same setup (ECU, Z32 etc)

I also have another mate with a HKS 2535 on an RB25 with a Wolf 3D, injectors etc and he is running 18psi and 252rwkw...

I dont think they will run much more than 250ish rwkw no matter how much boost they have but the midrange agin on them is amazing at high psi...

I have one of these babies too on my rb20...made 202kwkw at 15psi with ths usual support mods...exhaust, fmic, fuel pump, z32, injectors and remapped ecu...theres a fair bit more left in it i just need a new front pipe as mine is dented and would be restricting flow...also have a 3" metal cat coming in the main to replace the sh!tty 3" cat i have...will turn the boost up and do another tune...then we'll see how it does....

Edited by limpus

Just to add a little further,

HKS 2530 equivalent = GT2860RS = 60mm compressor = 320hp rating

2535 = 69mm compressor = 350-370hp rating, no direct spec equivalent from Garrett

Garrett 2871 48T = 71mm compressor = 380hp rating, no direct spec equivalent released by HKS

Garrett 2871 52T = 71mm compressor with bigger inlet + T25 turbine flange pattern = 400+ hp rating = HKS GT-RS (but this has T3 flange pattern)

Running beyond a compressor's flow capacity will yield more midrange torque for sure, but run them into choke and as everyone's saying you won't make any more high rpm torque and possibly strike detonation issues unless the tuner takes strong notice of what the mechanical specs are and what information is being logged during the process.

Bottom line: do the numbers really matter, or what it does on the road?

Edited by Dale FZ1

robs was a 2535, not a 2530 :domokun:

my 2535 makes about 248kw @ 14-15psi according to what the dyno rekons.. allthough it does sound abit high.....

cln, rob told me no one ever believed it and he did it a number of times to shut people up..

Justin911 is now using that turbo.

And no it wasnt 25psi thru the turbo.

DjeMz: Robs tuning wont disapoint you :)

Im also using a HKS 2535 with a power fc, After market fuel pump, Splitfire coil packs 3 inch turbo back exhaust, GFB bleed valve standard injectors and sandard AFM on a RB25 R33 Series 1 the car pulled 240 rwkw at boostworks

post-26024-1177332107.jpg

:)

Here is what you said:

djemz: rob from creatd is confident 2530s and 2535s are good for 250 and upwards.

with a 2530 he made 255 on his drift 33

When in fact 250rwkw is about the limit for this turbo; NO "upwards" :P

I just stated "260 is optimistic and any claims more is just BS"

Here is my Dyno graph with a before mentioned set-up.

Ignore the red line as the graph is a "b4 and after" comparison when i changed my exhaust system.

post-1811-1179143787_thumb.jpg post-1811-1179143806_thumb.jpg

You can see where the cams and porting come into their own: More usable power and torque (better average power and torque)

I consider the GTRS as the newer version of the GT2535, as it only makes slightly more power and they stopped producing the GT2535 when the GTRS was released.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...