Auto Trans Cooler Upgrade

[so_tred]

I know, probably been answered - I've tried looking..just want a simple quick answer

At what point should the Auto transmission cooler be upgraded on an R34 GTT? What kind of power figure?

My auto cooler is going to have to be relocated in a couple of weeks..new mounting bracket fabricated, some new lines run etc so I'm just wondering whether I should just bite the bullet now and also upgrade the cooler to a larger unit while I'm at it and the bracket is being fabricated to fit.

[SECURITY]

id say anything around 190-200+ then you'll need a bigger cooler core.

but if you've got less and are going onto the track/drag you'll need one regardless of power.

[Modena]

id say anything around 190-200+ then you'll need a bigger cooler core.

but if you've got less and are going onto the track/drag you'll need one regardless of power.

Can you show what cooler you have in your auto box? Im thinkign of investing in one too. How much are they and is it hard to install one?

What do you think of this one?

http://www.autoanything.com/coolers/65A3049A0A0.aspx

Also is it a must to have a tranny cooler before you go to the track?

Edited April 23, 2007 by CCCP

[satanic]

The most reccomended one is the Davies Craig 19 Row cooler for about $130 available from Autobarn, AutoOne, Repco etc etc.

It's about the size of an A4 sheet of paper and more than does the job.

[Modena]

The most reccomended one is the Davies Craig 19 Row cooler for about $130 available from Autobarn, AutoOne, Repco etc etc.

It's about the size of an A4 sheet of paper and more than does the job.

Do you know how much it costs to install and if its big process? Also can any mechanic fit it or is it a tranny specialist job?

[satanic]

About 30 minutes with the correct tools - just gets a bit messy as you'll no doubt get trans fluid all over yourself 30 minutes if the approximate time for mounting in the stock location; not relocating it to another place.

No need to bring it to a specialist workshop; just bring it to a normal one.

You'd also be advised (as one very wise person did to me before) to get a Oil Temp Gauge for the A/T; especially if you're going to track the car. You'd also be advised to fit the sender when you are putting this cooler in.

From memory; the DC kit comes with everything you'll need - you will need the following extras: 1) side cutters, 2) screw drivers, 3) socket set, 4) zip ties, line clamp tool x 2

Cheers

Stan

[Modena]

About 30 minutes with the correct tools - just gets a bit messy as you'll no doubt get trans fluid all over yourself 30 minutes if the approximate time for mounting in the stock location; not relocating it to another place.

No need to bring it to a specialist workshop; just bring it to a normal one.

You'd also be advised (as one very wise person did to me before) to get a Oil Temp Gauge for the A/T; especially if you're going to track the car. You'd also be advised to fit the sender when you are putting this cooler in.

From memory; the DC kit comes with everything you'll need - you will need the following extras: 1) side cutters, 2) screw drivers, 3) socket set, 4) zip ties, line clamp tool x 2

Cheers

Stan

Thanks champ, im gonna install it before I go to the track...

[so_tred]

Stan, do you have the Autometer transmission temp gauge?

I'm watching one on ebay, thinking of getting it..

I want the easiest kind to install (accurate too of course)

If you don't, which type do you have and how hard was it to install?

[satanic]

I've got an autometer one yes (it's actually an engine oil temp gauge but it's the same thing).

You will need to make up your own sender / feeler thing though, my one was a hand-me-down but we have since made ones from plumbing fittings (brass). The whole thing should be shaped in a straight line (ideally) with the temp sensor to the gauge measuring the temp in the middle. However, as we've found on both occasions, such fittings are hard to come by and we've ended up with a L shape fitting.

<nipple> - - <fitting>|temp sender|<fitting> - - <nipple>

* this is the ideal way to do it...

* think of the <fitting> as a solid object that the temp sender just screws into

OUR METHOD WAS:

|temp sender|<fitting> - - <nipple>

........................-

........................-

....................<nipple>

Does this make sense? Sorry the diagram is a bit shitty...

[satanic]

POO GREEN = Fitting

BLACK = Push On Barbs

BLUE = Temp Sensor (comes with gauge) + Wires

The temp sensor screws into hte fitting...

Use gasket goop or similar to stop leakages... or thread tape

[so_tred]

ok, I get that part..

What point is the fitting then going into? (I don't know because of it being auto trans oil temp not just plain old oil temp)

It seems like it actually might be a smarter idea to go for a plain oil temp gauge seeing as the temp does show lower than 100 degrees as opposed to the transmission oil temp specific gauges that only start at 100..?

Edited April 23, 2007 by so_tred

[Abo Bob]

Ooh. I'm wise.

My work here is done.

[so_tred]

I went & had a closer look at those Davies Craig coolers, they all have 3/8 fittings whereas the standard hose to/from my standard trans cooler is only 5/16..

What's the best/most reliable way to get around it?

[Abo Bob]

Pirtek or enzed.

[Haines]

I priced a PWR tranny cooler yesterday measurements were 200x250 from memory and cost $119.00

do you rate these or will i need a bigger one

I only do the occasional drag meet but because my power level is going up I want to keep it safe

[V28VX37]

I am also looking at upgrading the auto trans cooler in my R34 GTT so digging up this old thread.

It looks like the one people use a lot is the Davies Craig 678 (the one in this SydneyKid's Stagea thread).

Has anybody used the bigger Davies Craig 679? It's a substantially larger core but is it an overkill, would it even fit?

Also, can someone please confirm that cooler 2 in this photo is the auto trans cooler:

And just out of curiosity, what's cooler/heat exchanger 1 (basically just a single bar loop)?

Thanks guys!

[GTSBoy]

The 678 would have to be big enough.

Cooler 2 is definitely the AT cooler. Cooler 1 is teh power steering cooler. FWIW, I used the old AT cooler from my Neo transplant as the PS cooler in my R32. Now THAT'S overkill!

[scotty nm35]

Not at the track, I have heard of many PS pumps failing at trackdays, I fitted a slightly smaller one to mine before attempting any track work.

The larger the cooler the better the cooling, the hassle with that is it may not heat up in winter, or quick enough to drop into top gear within a reasonable time. I run a massive 30 row oil cooler on my auto, but it has a mechanical thermostat on it to help bring the oil up to temp quickly, and I left it passing through the radiator.

[V28VX37]

I had another look at the stock auto cooler on the R34. It's bigger than I thought, the core is 32 x 112 x 220mm. The DC 678 core is quite thin at 20mm x 281mm x 184mm. If my calculations are correct, the stock cooler is only 20% smaller than the 678, which seems like bugger all...

I'm wondering if the R34 had a bigger cooler from factory than the Stageas?

[GTSBoy]

The thickness of the core won't make so much of a difference as the frontal area. On that basis the DC678 is about double the size of the stocker. If you can get it into air flow it will cool a lot more than the stocker.

That size (stock core) is the same size as I have (although now on my power steer because AT is the work of the devil).....so it is definitely the stock R34 AT core size.