Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

btw sorry to the first two guys - i wrapped your cables with normal tape (to keep it flat for postage) which will leave them a bit sticky. will use packaging/masking tape for rest so that doesnt happen

thanks for the pics!

  • Replies 132
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey just tested it, it works great.

Can't wait to actually take it for a drive and records results for viewing, turns out the speed sensor they replaced is still working but 42 starts ago it recorded a fault again and thats the only one wooties!

My usb to serial converter worked its just one of those cheap ones of ebay didn't come with drivers but i downloaded the ones u mention on the websites listed in first post and it work with it.

Can't wait for the future updates to software and also interfaces, etc.

good to hear

if the usb/serial converter u got worked with the drivers there, it must have been an FTDI one, which is good! do you have a link to which one on ebay it was?

good to hear

if the usb/serial converter u got worked with the drivers there, it must have been an FTDI one, which is good! do you have a link to which one on ebay it was?

Yep, here it is:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1

Mind you it states item is located in Adelaide but it came posted from Hong Kong so took from friday last week till today to receive. I grabbed it cause of the cable length makes it even easy to store laptop throughout the car whilst driving and having the cable hooked up.

There might be others which are cheaper but then not sure if they are the FTDI one's.

can u confirm its using the FTDI drivers and not built in ones? (eg device manager->ports->right click the usb com port and look at properties->driver details)

Hi,

Does the female end of the serial port on your consult cable come with the two screws to secure it to the male serial/usb adaptor? Because my serial/usb adaptor doesn't come with these screws. Only the legs like on the back of a PC.

no they dont, for a few reasons:

1) connecting them together normally is a tight fit...if you pulled on the cable, it would come out from the usb port 20 times easier than the serial port connection would disconnect

2) the screws on the connector, if they were put in, arent thumb screws, youd have to get a mini flathead to screw it

3) and most importantly, the male connector on the usb/serial doesnt have any socket for the screws to go into (theres a hole, but it doesnt grip!)...which makes it rather pointless

just push them together tightly and theres no way its coming apart unless u want it to.

on a side issue, the consult cable doesnt have a strain relief in the connector (the usb/serial does), so to disconnect it you should always use the connector, not yanking the cable

can u confirm its using the FTDI drivers and not built in ones? (eg device manager->ports->right click the usb com port and look at properties->driver details)

Don't have access to the laptop at the moment i left it at work on saturday and was off sick today, but it would not work until i downloaded your drivers and install them so i am assuming it is running off the ftdi ones. But i will double check this for you.

just an update, ive been sick since saturday (unfortunately for the period i set aside to make more cables) so there may be a delay before more are available. hopefully i can get some done this weekend, we'll see

received my cable in the post yesterday. looks good but I haven't had a chance to hook it up yet. I'll test it out tonight. Thanks Peter. nice work.

just to confirm i wont have time to make any more cables till next weekend (ie june 2-3)

id originally planned for my brother to do most of the assembly but he hasnt been able to do any, so ive been stuck with it :/

NewKleer,

I'd like to put my name down for a usb ecutalk consult cable, I have money ready for direct deposit as soon as your ready to take it?

Can you please PM me and let me know if there is any left and what I have to do and when.....

Thanks

BOOSTA (Pete)

ill add you to the end of the reserve list, but with 4 people already on it (meaning 4 original people will have to pull out), its unlikely there will be enough for you to get one im afraid

Its okay.... no probs I can go and get a blatz one if need be.............. Heh just gotta find out whats wrong with my poor ol gtst

So i figure i might aswell shell out for my own consult cable and that way it helps shorten the list of what it could possibly be...

yes, but you need to install it using a pc.

see the part starting with "Running ECUTalk on a Pocket PC" here: http://www.ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx

for a pocket pc, you will need to use activesync etc on your main pc to install the .net framework onto it (if its not already)

thats only if you're using ecutalk on a pocket pc - on a normal laptop just follow instructions in the readme...ie install .net framework 1.1, optionally the sp1 for it, then run ecutalk exe

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
×
×
  • Create New...