Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest lixid

hey guys

i got my power fc fitted and dyno tuned tonight

198.9rwkw

it's not bad right??

i feel the car run more smoothly, and speed goes up pretty quick.

but the thing is before power fc in, it is 197rwkw already, is there somthing wrong?? i don't know.......

tonight from 6:00 to 8:30 two and half hour job.

at first i was happy but when i see the graphic i found that there were not much gain.

at the mid range from about 4000 to 5500 there are about 10kw gain, but at the top it is almost the same. but at end the power stays the same for another 500rmp or so over the stock range

at the right bottom of the result, it says

" Gear 3 Tue, Jul 16, 2002 08:07

Gear 3 Tue, Jul 16, 2002 08:01

Gear 3 Tue, Jul 16, 2002 06:37 "

i think those are the times they did the dyno.

power at engine is 234.1 kw and at wheel 198.9kw

and also, my avc-r act funny too. the low boost is .85 bar, but it go up to 1.01 bar.

please give me some advice on it and i will go to talk to my mach. tomorrow when i go to pay him.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1657-my-dyno-result-very-strange/
Share on other sites

It had a run on the dyno immediately before they fitted up the PFC?

Better midrange has to be more useful than topend. Hows the air/fuel on the 'after' run? I've seen them tuned to around 12.5 .

Before the PFC you had 197rwkw with no ECU mods at all, how?

My R33 has the same mods as yours and made 148rwkw @ 10psi with the A/F ratio mainly in the high 10:1's, with the ability to tune the air and timing that the PFC gives you, then yes I believe 198rwkw is possible, although some people on this site would have you believe otherwise, however before the tune I can't see how you made 197kw.

Guest lixid

i have to say i don't feel it is fast, but last night, when i finish the dyno, and all the way back home. i looked at my avc-r which show i did over 180km/h. if you know want i mean.

it is so smooth, i don't even feel it is fast. but it actually fast.(i notice the mid range improvement for sure)

and today i went to see my mach. and he did a little bit adjustment to my avc-r(as i mentioned that it acted funny), it launched pretty hard(i mean fast), and got wheel spin at about 4500rpm at first gear, and same as second gear as well. with the same way i usually drive. it obviuesly got power increased.(after i set a little bit less boost at first and second gear, it goes awsome)

i am happy with what i got.

198.9kw sound not real, but it doesn't really matter to me now. as long as i know that the car is run well and safely.

197 rwkw from the ECU !! nice, do you want to sell the "Stock" ECU, I would love to try it in mine.

I'm making 144 rwkw at the moment at 13 psi (same sort boost as yours I think).

Mine is an R33 on a 93 with 70K on the clock.

Let us know what you think....

Julian

don't expect too much from your PFC, lixid, and its depend on the dyno as well.

mine nearly the same, except i got a bleed valve and a unichip.

with exhaust, FMIC, boost@12psi, filter. mine's about 163rwkw from around 130rwkw.

my unichip just tied it all together, lean out the mixture at 11.8 A/F add extra 10rwkw at 173rwkw.

lots smoother and more faster esp. taking off at idle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...