Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

buy a K&N filter recharge kit, costs around 28 bucks, and comes with the cleaner and oil. cleaner which u just put on, let sit, and then rinse under water, then let it dry, and spray on with the filter oil.

works perfect and brings pod looking good as new. and is way cheaper than a new one...

i use it on my K&N, and my brother uses it on his apexi,,

Repco, autobahn, supercheap all sell them

Edited by Silver_R34_GT-T

Guys! What are you all doing??

The Apexi pod filters are not washable. The only way to clean them is to take the pod off and use an air compressor to blow the crap out from the inside.

K&N are washable and you have to re-oil them after.

HKS and all other foam type is best to replace as the foam detoriates and bits of foam will get sucked in.

All other no name brands and cheapies, don't bother as they don't filtrate so the dirt build up may be a good thing... Haha!

you CAN'T use an air compressor!!!!!!!

The fitlers have micro pores, and when you use an air compressor, you blast the hoels out making them bigger.

I don't see any problem in giving them a light vacuum, soaking with soap and rinsing, then drying. I wouldn't scrub it, because that'll destroy it, but i'd wash mine when it needs to be washed.

1. he hasn't said what type it is so no point giving any advice as its all speculation

2. if u have no money, wait until u do

3. Does ur car run ok? If its dirty its filters better as with all filters. Unless u can notice a massive power loss I wouldn't bother - esp. if u have no money.

most cotton filters can be washed. foam filters like HKS etc cannot be washed. when washing them be sure to have the water flowing from the inside of the pod to the outside (otherwise you will be ingraining dirft into the filter). a small bit of soap (not much) in warm water is the go. or use the K+N filter cleaning kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...