Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

never heard that... i also dont see how that is possible...

you can run your car without a filter at all and it makes mad induction noise (that WILL eventually blow your motor) so the only reason that it would blow the motor would be by lack of airflow... and i doubt Apexi would release a filter that didnt flow to the necessary standards... which would be kinda hard to make anyway...

whichever one of your dickhead friends told you that should get a kick in the shin... hes an idiot...

WTF? what retard told you that?

Regardless, the question should be 'why do you want to change the pod filter?' it's going to make stuff all performance difference.... save your money

+1

LOL...

how about keeping the original air flow meter, with a Apexi Pod Filter head?

does it do the same induction?

any performance drop or whatsoever? :sorcerer:

hrms the pod filter screws on at the air flow meter. irregardless of whether you use a panel filter or a pod i am pretty sure u have to have the afm (correct me if i am wrong!). with the pod, you do hear an induction noise. if sounds/noises is all you want then you could always take off the stock air box cover. that should give you some induction noise

hope that helps!

:(

Ok seriously, according to alot of information out there from the big brands the apexi ones flow the best and the K&N ones filter the best. Weather you'll actually notice a difference between the two I doubt it. People who say they can notice a 5kw difference in power are full of shit. I've seen many people on dynos going from the orginal box, to a modified box to a pod to nothing on consecutive runs and majority of the time on stockish cars the original box makes the most power....go figure??? As far as I am concerned, put a pretty on on there so it looks nice and be done with it :(

as to you last question, going to an open pod from a standard box you'll probably loose a bit of power cos pods suck in more hot air than the box. its obviously gonna effect you more in city driving where your car heats up as opposed to a track......

Alright.

My question now is

Is it possible to change the pod filter head from K&N to APexi one without changing the air flow meter?

or in the first place, can it be done like that? that means i'm keeping the K&N air flow meter.

will there be any difference in whatsoever?

you don't have a K+N airflow meter. you have a K+N pod filter, most likely mounted to an adapter which is then bolted to your factory nissan Air Flow meter. to fit your apexi pod you need to remove your K+N pod filter and remove the adapter too, now bolt your apexi pod directly to the nissan airflow meter.

if it was me, I would just leave the K+N filter on there. They are very good.

Apexi makes a 16hp gain (estimated from testing) also comes up better than HKS or K&N models in filtration and also still makes wicked sound ..

Hope that helps .. buy one!

Oh and for your info .. testing was done with 45psi which is heavy as .. the apexi showed almost no dust particles through and the items which got through would not effect the engine as the particles are small enough to not scratch or harm the pistons etc.. It sucked a little less .1 or somthing than the HKS model *retail $500* and made higher hp increase (Id say because apexi spins the air intake where as HKS just sucks huge amounts into a small hole

Edited by DECIM8

what are you asking? on what?? on a car I assume .. it was only .5hp higher than any other brand .. K&N was second.

it was tested on a vacume cleaner if you familar with the test .. so im assuming it was then tested on a car .. however not sure

I'm running an Apexi on my GTR. Box off - pod filter adaper (a 4 inch Ali pipe) bolts onto the AFM and the filters onto it. Easy to do. I get a decent amount of intake noise. Can't tell you I could feel any HP difference.

I kinds doubt switching from one brand to another makes much difference, unless one doesn't fliter very well and you don't want junk going into the intake. Sure wouldn't be the best bang for the buck performance wise.

There is an issue with sucking in hot air versus and airbox. Ironic to see most who are looking for perfromance to then add an air box of some sort.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...