Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gdays it looks like the common cold idle problem has hit my car(94 R33GTST). As i start her up in the morning the idle either rises to about 1500-2000rpm straight away or as soon as i start driving and stop at some lights. This occurs until operating temperature is reached where it goes back to normal.

Now i have done some research before i ask this question and am just a little confused on something. Is it this cold start valve causing my problems (which i assume controls idle when cold) or the AAC valve (which i thought controlled idle along with the ecu/IAC valve when normal operating conditions are reached).As you can see im a little confused. Due to being a busy uni student i dont have much time pulling of everything and giving it a clean so i only want to go after what i/people think is the main problem.

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166150-common-skyline-problem/
Share on other sites

Sorry should of been a little clearer, i mean once i start it, it will sometimes idle at its normal cold start value what your talking about but then i take it out of the driveway and drive it around for a little bit and then i stop at some lights and poah it shoots up to about 2000rpm while im sitting there and doesnt go down. Its like a valve forgets to close/open or something thats my problem and why im asking.

Thanks for the quick replies so far guys

Sounds like your automatic choke dude, although 2K RPM is higher than I'd expect it to sit on

agreed... a bit high... but none the less, it has been really cold lately... it doesnt use much petrol, and its mostly good for the car...

as long as it doesnt do it after like a 30 minute drive then your fine...

Thanks for the reply guys, well i could leave it for 5 minutes to warm up and then start driving then when i stop instead of idling at normal rpm's it will idle somewhere close to 2000rpm. I know its not a normal thing because i have had the car for like 3 years without this happening before. And it has also occured after like 20 minutes of driving just last night. So im very confused. I know about cleaning the AAC valve and that but is there a separate valve what controls the car at idle when cold or is it just the AAC controlling idle? If people could clear that up for me that would be great thanks. :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...