Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

try buying off a forum member as USUALLY it would be better maintained. its really upto you how you want to go about it. if you want to grow with your car and mod it to your taste then do that, or if you dont mind finishing off someones work then yeah haha.

personally, from experience i would buy a car modded already, as ive bought 2 stock skylines which ive spent a fair bit on both, if i was to buy another one id get one already done :thumbsup:

at least get the basics, exhaust, suspension, fmic, air filter & ur off to a good start already.

oh and ive had a s2 gtst, its a realllly good car mate good choice :D

how much are you willing to spend all up??? IMO if your willin to spend a bit of cash id by a stock one and do exactly everything you want to do it. more personalized i guess... 13,000 not a bad price for a S2 stock. how many Ks?

in my opinion i would prefer the one with no mods but that's just me i'm so finicky about my car if i was living in the states i would have a fully maintained lowrider

FACT

BUT i think you would be happier with the modded one to be honest, from what i can gather, that's what you hear when you listen to your heeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrtttttttt....

....yyyyyyyyyyyeah

best way to decide this, is flip a coin, and deal with it! if you're unhappy with the outcome of the coin, then you will have your answer! don't let some REJECT on sau decide this for you,

JUST FLIP THE COIN!

Why do newys on the Skyline scene always go straight for the 33's :P

order of greatness:

32GTR - The orignal godzilla, RB26 for under $20k in some cases

31GTS-R - Rare as they come

33GTR - Nice prices, fairly rare (around Perth) also.

34GTR - Awesome style, but a bit pricey

Suzuki Mightyboy

...

...

33gtst

:P

How much you wanna spend on car? Cause if you got 18000 to spend and u spend 13000 on car plus insurance (guessing young male) and good alarm system $3000 you wont be left with too much.

Whether a car is boosted or stock you cant entirely tell its history so buying any second hand car is a gamble. Do the usual checks when looking at car and be patient!

I would reccommend if your a noob with skylines by a stock one and get to know everything you can about them and their mods. Then when you are ready, do it up and you have a car which is uniquely yours.

Just my Personal opinion, all the best on your skyline journey

get a 32GTR.

if ya can find a real good one 18 or otherwise it might cost ya alot more...

Why do newys on the Skyline scene always go straight for the 33's :nyaanyaa:

order of greatness:

32GTR - The orignal godzilla, RB26 for under $20k in some cases

31GTS-R - Rare as they come

33GTR - Nice prices, fairly rare (around Perth) also.

34GTR - Awesome style, but a bit pricey

Suzuki Mightyboy

...

...

33gtst

:ninja:

lol

Why do newys on the Skyline scene always go straight for the 33's :)

order of greatness:

32GTR - The orignal godzilla, RB26 for under $20k in some cases

31GTS-R - Rare as they come

33GTR - Nice prices, fairly rare (around Perth) also.

34GTR - Awesome style, but a bit pricey

Suzuki Mightyboy

...

...

33gtst

:ninja:

R31? wtf

back to to the topic, 18k for a 33 gtst is too pricey

i'd get the stock 13k and do it up IMO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...