Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just done bottum end on my stock 33 GTR, probably bearings. While im down there im going to put some pistons, rods n n1 oil pump in aswell. Im thinking about a new crank too if needed? ill be sending the block away aswell if i decide to keep the rb26 bottum end. After thinking of replacing all the internals it might be better for me to go rb30 bottum end if im going to be buying everything new anyway?

I currently have standard turbos running @ 1bar. I can source a gt42 1000hp turbo pretty cheep. what else would i need to upgrade even if i run the gt42 on low boost for now untill i can afford to upgrade the head and fuel system?

:EDIT: another question is, to get my car back up n running asap can i have a fully rebuilt bottum end and the rest of the engine stock? is there a problem in doing that?

Also would my power fc work with an rb30 bottum end?

Edited by RICK-GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166262-gtr-rebuild-undecided-need-input/
Share on other sites

my advice is if you are going to get a new crank anyway, just buy an HKS or tomei 2.8 litre kit. it comes with rods, pistons, rings and crank. and will be suitable for your massive power goal. also, i would forget the plan of running a massive turbo at low boost. it will be a dog. far better to get something in the 500-700hp range. don't skimp on your turbo. it has one of the biggest effects on how your car drives and performs.

not really. around $5K for a kit including a 2.8 crank, good rods, good pistons, good rings.

now price up:

set of pistons

set of rods

set of rings

new R33 crank.

I would say that will touch $5K easily if you are buying good parts, and you now still have a 2.6...

Pistons + Rings - Arias or Cp or Tomei, up to $1500

Rods - around $1000

Crank - Around $1000

Total = 3.5k

If you go rb30 bottum end add the cost of the block and pulleys n adaptor plates i think (unsure, there is a topic somewhere) couldnt equal more than $1400 so youd probably just get it done for under 5k for rb30 complete bottum end

Prices on HKS 2.8 litre kits start from 5k for 600ps

21004-AN002AU $ 5,313.67AU HKS RB26DETT 2.8L STEP 1 441kW(600ps)

21004-AN004AU $ 6,955.01AU HKS RB26DETT 2.8L STEP 2 588kW(800ps)

2104-RN006AU $ 8,696.49AU HKS RB26DETT 2.8L STEP 3 882kW(1200ps)

you might need to check that crank price. I have a feeling the nissan crank is a fair whack more than $1K.

but yeah the rest is about right. not sure where you got the 2.8 litre prices but last time i checked them they were much less than that.

but it's up to you. RB30 is a good option. lots of power and torque. having been in both I prefer the 2.8 though.

fair enough. sorry my bad.

but it doesn't change my opinion. you are getting a lot more value for $$ I think with the 2.8 litre vs rebuilding with a new stock crank. the best cars I've been in were japanese 2.8 litre strokers.

New cranks are difficult to find at the moment, factor that into your considerations as well >_<

Im with Beer Baron on this one, if you are planning to switch to a big single, the cost comparison between rebuilding your 2.6 with forged components and purchasing one of the available Japanese 2.8 kits be it an HKS or Tomei version, make the stroker kit a much more attractive option.

Ill be happy with 400 - 500 awkw

Rb30 block i can get for $50 too, then the cost of sending it away to get cleaned up, Im sure vl turbo internals would be cheaper than 26 internals?

Still undecided n still learning

Ill be happy with 400 - 500 awkw

Rb30 block i can get for $50 too, then the cost of sending it away to get cleaned up, Im sure vl turbo internals would be cheaper than 26 internals?

Still undecided n still learning

i dont think its that easy is it?

from memory its only certian rb30's that can be used? someone can correct me on this maybe?

for all your rb30 conversion have a good read of this.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...-lots-pics.html

it provides alot of info from a home built rb30 in a 32 gtr

i dont think its that easy is it?

from memory its only certian rb30's that can be used? someone can correct me on this maybe?

for all your rb30 conversion have a good read of this.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...-lots-pics.html

it provides alot of info from a home built rb30 in a 32 gtr

Yer i read that there is alot of little things to do and i know a place where i can get adaptor plates n stuff made for the sump etc. Unsure if rb30 would work with my power fc

you need to do a lot more research. why wouldn't it work with a power FC? how does the power FC know what size stroke your crank has? or what size bore you have? the head is still the same. the sensors are all still the same. remember the ecu just controls fuel, and spark (well obviously a few other little things too). it doesn't care about RB30, or RB31 or RB27 or RB28 etc.

i have to be honest. it seems like you have made your mind up. by all means go with the RB30, or the stock 26 build. but like I said if you are buying all new engine parts anyway the 2.8 kits are a good option and nearly all the top street and time attack cars in japan are now running 2.8...

Your using the RB26 head, so the PFC will definately work.

Whats your budget? and is it 400 or 500rwkw? There is a fair difference between the two

aim for 450awkw that doesnt have to be right now either, i just want a bottum end at the moment to handle 450awkw and later on i will do headwork n turbo, i already have a fuel system lined up for later on also. There is no real budget but id rather do it all in stages than throwing 15k down in one week haha

Edited by RICK-GTR
well that's a start. a reliable 450kw costs around $20-$25K.

whatever way i decide ill be making a document for other skylines australia members with price's. I have a friend who is very good with engines n fabrication work wich we are doing everything ourselves so it will not cost me as much but i want to have some information about this kind of decission for other people.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
×
×
  • Create New...