What Specialist Tools Are Required For A Clutch Change

[46n2]

Hi all,

I'll be changing my clutch next weekend with a little help, and need to know what specialist tools I'll need for the job.

Two that I can think of (that may be unnecessary?), are a bearing puller (for the thrust bearing), and from the reading I have done I'll need something to line the clutch up.

What obscure tools did you find yourself rushing (or wishing you had beforehand) to the hardware store to pick up?

[mattymagoo22]

circlip or thin nose pliers to remove shifter

loooong extension to remove top bellhousing bolts

a real small bendy arm to get top starter motor bolt out...

not sure if yours will be the same (mine was r33rb25) but a punch to remover old thrust bearing off and a big ass socket (i used 32mm impact) to tap new bearing on.

Edited April 27, 2007 by mattymagoo22

[MrStabby]

Yeah long extensions - i needed two 2x500mm for the GTR box, but that's got the 4WD stuff so its extra long. I used a uni-joint at the end with eletrical tape around the joint so it didnt droop down too much which made it easier to get on the bolt head. If your taking the flywheel off then a rattle gun will help, and you'll need to hold the crank still by putting a big mutha socket on the front where the balancer is.

Also stubby ratchet sockets are handy and I got a clutch alignment tool from kmart years ago for ~$10-15.

[GTRgeoff]

Sounds like a big job Mike. Wish I was there to help but I have to deal with my new toy...... all 18 feet and 200hp of it....actually isn't 200hp more than most '20s?

BTW the extensions and a good flex like a sidchrome will let you get the upper bolt on the starter, and an air ratchet might help too.

All the best mate. Come up for some fishing sometime.

[Kaz200]

damn you! *shakes fist*

gawd if only there was a nice Hawkesbury River down here.

Can't even borrow your friggin circlip pliers anymore

[GTRgeoff]

Was that Mike or Kaz ???????

[Kaz200]

twas me!!

that blonde response should give you a hint...

[GTRgeoff]

OK I'm convinced....but only a bit. Remember to supply lots of beer to the workers.

[46n2]

Sounds like a big job Mike. Wish I was there to help but I have to deal with my new toy...... all 18 feet and 200hp of it....actually isn't 200hp more than most '20s?

BTW the extensions and a good flex like a sidchrome will let you get the upper bolt on the starter, and an air ratchet might help too.

All the best mate. Come up for some fishing sometime.

Hey Geoff

Nice boat...Kaz said it goes well with the three others you have parked in the driveway

In theory, I've enlisted Bris to help me drink beer, eat BBQ, oh, and squeeze time in somewhere to fit the clutch too

So thus far it seems that I'm going to need some extra extension bars, an alignment tool, and a bearing puller (is this necessary?). oh and a uni joint.

No luck on the air tools :\ need a compressor and it's low on the list for the minute.

Matty: thanks for reminding me about that stupid circlip. Last time i went to bunnings/supercheap/etc looking for circlip pliers big enough i came back empty-handed i needed to modify some needle-nosed pliers to get the job done.

Thanks for the help so far guys

What sort of grease should I be using when I do the install. I've been told graphite powder instead of other lubricants?

[mattymagoo22]

there is nothing wrong with using grease on input shaft splines, snout where bearing runs pivot ball and on the prongs of the fork where it contacts your bearing and slave cylinder, just as long as you don't have it so that its dripping off. if you use powder I reckon it will start to squeak 6 months down the track, I could be wrong. i use castrol LMM grease and have never had a problem with noises or clutches slipping due to grease contamination.

Yeah a uni joint will make life very easy.

you dont need an alignment tool, there are 3 points on the pressure plate where the straps join the cover, they're at 120 degrees around like a mercades badge if you know what i mean, to the friction surface of the plate, with slight tension on the bolts for the pressure plate you can get the clutch disc as central as possible by eye, then feel at the 3 points if distance from the edge of the pressure plate to the disc is equal on all 3 points then your disc is lined up.

you don't need a bearing puller it can be tapped out with a hammer and drift and put back on with a big socket or pipe that is the same size as the inside race.

I take it you're not machining the flywheel, have a look for and surface cracks and bad heat spots if there is some there get it off and send it to get machined, if it looks ok then just rub it down with some emery paper

[46n2]

Cool, I'll try the same grease.

Grabbed a uni joint and another long extension bar on the weekend. Also picked up a creeper for $25...bargain.

I've got a spare flywheel which will be machined this week.

Thanks again

[nizmo_freek]

I will also be doing this on the weekend, do i need to drain out all the gearbox fluid (i really dont want to do this as its all band new fluid in there) or will it be fine with the fluid in still in there?

Cheers

[46n2]

Yeah you'll need to dump the gearbox oil first, but you can re-use it so long as you dump it into a clean pan. You might need a small top up bottle to fill it completely once you're done

[shanef]

i use an input shaft off a broken gearbox to line the clutch up ($20 from my local gearbox shop)

stuby ratchet spanners for the starter

jacks

bandaids for when u smash ur hands against stuff

have fun :sorcerer: