Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It looks like my RB20 will have to be rebuilt due to some large issues its having.

atm i'm looking at the worst case scenario and getting it rebuilt from ground up and was wondering how much it'd cost me.

I was quoted around $10k inc labour to use all nissan factory parts and return it to pretty much a stock condition...which i thought was HEAPS. much more that i'd be willing to pay considering my car isn't even worth that much.

Can anyone enlighten me on how much i should expect to pay for a decent rebuild and what's involved in it?

Much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/
Share on other sites

granted this is my first comment on this site ...

i have calculated my rebuild will cost me around $1,000.00 USA which includes some work done at local machine shops

but i will be doing most of the work myself to take it apart and put it back together

i found a rebuild kit from nissan that will cost me around $130.00 USA shipped to my home ... and it usualy retails around $399.99 USA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3081436
Share on other sites

granted this is my first comment on this site ...

i have calculated my rebuild will cost me around $1,000.00 USA which includes some work done at local machine shops

but i will be doing most of the work myself to take it apart and put it back together

i found a rebuild kit from nissan that will cost me around $130.00 USA shipped to my home ... and it usualy retails around $399.99 USA

Well we usually talk workshop/RRP prices :sick:

Not everyone can assemble thier own motor, not everyone knows someone that works and can attain trade pricing :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3081452
Share on other sites

I'd have to agree with the above and just get a second hand rb20det would be by far the cheapest option if your on a budget and if you just want a performance engine rebuild your old rb20 at your leasure

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3081507
Share on other sites

Who did that quote? As its totally absurd.

For a stock rebuild, no more than 5k at the absolute worst. And thats motor in/out included.

A workshop in bayswater will charge 10k for a rebuild with they say pretty much all stock parts not including putting the engine in and out for a GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082002
Share on other sites

thanks for the replies...i thought the price was a bit wtf considering i saw a good r34 gtr engine being sold recently for $10k on SAU and many rb26dett's for less.

its by this workshop called Promech in Richmond. i took my car there for a tune and apparantely my ECU wasn't hooked up properly (previous owner) which caused it to run extremely rich and it looks like the engine is in REALLY bad shape from it along with other niggling engine issues. a leakdown/comp test will be done next week to determine the health of my engine and i've just been preparing for the worst.

it seems like my options are to rebuild, get another rb20 or drop in an rb25. what a money pit =|

i might post this next question in the Vic forum, but does anyone know of any reputable workshops in melbourne who will do good rebuilds/swaps for decent prices?

*edit*

also, as much as i'd love to do a rebuild in my own garage, i lack the mechanical and technical knowledge to do so =(

Edited by dan.1337
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082165
Share on other sites

I have not seen anything in here regarding the reason your RB20 needs rebuilding.

If you were saying it is making clattering or other oil related issues you MAY need to rebuild it.

Sounds like you need to take it to someone who actually knows about RB's and how to diagnose and rectify problems reasonably!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082178
Share on other sites

10k for Nissan parts is flamin stupid. Considering most gaskets (Head, ALL manifold) only cost me $300 from Nissan at Springwood. Barings are only $200 for small, and big end barings.. from Nissan.

An RB20DET R32 half cut is only $2400

An RB25DET R33 half cut is only $3200

Heck, forgies and a metal headgasket and what not would only cost $4000 in parts for the RB20DET.

LOL at ECU not being plugged in properly... Your being taken for a ride man. Change workshops. Most Nissan's run rich from factory. Especially the turbo ones. It just prolongs engine life. I would suggest you goto another workshop to get a leakdown. Even RACQ can do it for you... with truthfull responses as they wont be doing an engine transplant.

Honestly, I dont think there would be a thing wrong with your motor. You've just been told something by those scamming bastards, and your taking every noise you here like your motor is going to blow up.

I STRONGLY suggest you change workshop to someone with a little more "Knowledge" and Truthfullness.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082188
Share on other sites

You could also possibly look at importing something over from japan using the yahoo forums and an agent like rinkya.

Friend of myn picked up a worked rb20 for $600 which included td06, high mount manifold, metal head gasket and some tomei stuff in there too. Freight of course is the killer but boat isnt too bad if your prepared to wait. He was also able to obtain a recent comp test via fax but again it could come over and be totally rubish.

But meh worth the risk and most of the time its ok. Failing that like others have said obtain a second hand complete motor if you can and swap it over, even a long and just swap your other stuff onto it.

Edited by James_03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082223
Share on other sites

TurboX, i don't think i have any oil leaks from the engine. I only know of leaks at the rear of the gearbox, power steering rack and a tiny bit from the turbo. It wasn't making any clattering sounds either. It actually sounds quite smooth which is why i'm surprised all these issues seem to have sprung up.

Rancher, The ECU (Link) was a home job done by the previous owner and apparantely it wasn't plugged into the MAP sensor and there were all these hoses n shit which weren't properly plugged in. I was also told that so much petrol was going thru the engine (50L/220km) that i could have done damage to the engine. I'm not sure how true that is as the unburnt petrol was just being spat out the exhaust onto my driveway anyway.

I was also told there's also a few air leaks here and there.

Now the motor is running on the stock ECU, I'll get the leakdown to see what may need to be done. I was recommended this guy from a friend who was extremely happy with the service given to him so I'll see what he comes up with after the leakdown. If it sounds ridiculous i'll get a second opinion.

James_03, that's actually a good idea. I'll have a look into it as i'm not desperate to get it fixed right away anyway.

Just in general, how strong are the RB20's? Can they take a lot of abuse thrown at them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082326
Share on other sites

Stock.. no not really. Some people get lucky and their motors handle abuse for a while. With some work though (Forgies, cams etc) they can be a weapon of a motor, up there with the best of them.

I'm currently building an RB20DET, Tomie cams (Still trying to find ones that suit my needs $600 for a pair) ACL race barings ($300) new rings and a hone ($400) new vavles and valve springs (no idea) other bits and pieces.

And from memory on my RB20... it wouldnt start if the MAF wasnt plugged in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082456
Share on other sites

If the MAP sensor wasn't plugged in, the motor probably would run, and go through heaps of fuel. The workshop could be correct, as the washdown causes lots of damage to the motor, the fuel doesn't only go out the exhaust, ,it washed the oil off the bores, and breaks down the oil, which wears the crank journals, so to rebuild it to standard would require boring and crank grind, possibly oil pump/cam journal damage. Just because it doesn't make 260rwkw doesnt mean that it wont wear the motor. A second hand rb20 will definately be your cheapest option, and they can be found cheaply in australia on the forum, but till then keep driving it as its unlikely to blow up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3082602
Share on other sites

A workshop in bayswater will charge 10k for a rebuild with they say pretty much all stock parts not including putting the engine in and out for a GTR.

News to me and i use a few places in Baysie for just about everything :domokun:

Sounds like a 10k for a stock rebuild was just because they dont wanna work on your car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166379-rb20-rebuild/#findComment-3083384
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 65601-05U00 is the hood latch. 62550-08U31 is the support that holds it to the radiator core support. They are all super discontinued so I don't really have any great leads on how to source this stuff.
    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
×
×
  • Create New...