Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Figure Issue

lows_13

By lows_13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

lows_13 Mentor

lows_13

Posted
Posted (edited)

I went to the 'Dyno B' and got my car

dyno'd. Except i only got about 163rwkw 'Dyno B', unlike 193rwkw which i got at 'Dyno A'.

The guys at 'Dyno B' said that peak power dropped off at about 5000rpm, when it actually

should still be increasing. The only thing i have changed since the first dyno was, i installed a S/S

inlet pipe between AFM & turbo.

The power curve was fine at 'Dyno A'. Have you ever come across this before?

Both dyno runs showed good AFR's.

What would be the more appropriate power output figure for my current mods.

Mods:-

1993 R32 Skyline

RB20DET

Stock internals

5-speed manual

R33 S1 turbo

Trust front mount intercooler

Full exhaust (Split 3' dump/front pipe)

GTR fuel pump

Boost controller running at 14psi

Re-mapped ECU

Air pod

S/S inlet pipe

Edited by lows_13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166491-power-figure-issue/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

163rwkw sounds realistic

lots of things can affect the readouts, post both dyno sheets

one could have air temp correction, the other might not

one could be in a different gear or different ramp rate etc

series2r33 Collaborator

series2r33

Posted
Posted

Dynos can be calibrated differently therefore showing that some cars have less powerful then they do on a different dyno. The stainless steel intake pipe shouldn't have made any difference as the only problem i've heard of is with the stock plastic one contracting under suction and limiting air flow so if anything the s/s one should be better. my suggestion would be to go back to dyno A and get a re-run on that

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

most Rb20's with the 25 turbos make any where from 160 to 180 ish rwkw, even more if they are pushed to 14 psi. but for the sake of it we'll assume 12 or so psi.

dont be too fussed about different dyno reads out tho, does the car feel any different on road compared to both dynos?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

maybe the stainless inlet pipe has made your car slower/less powerful? I mean if that's the only thing you've changed and your power has gone down... how does it feel to you?

lows_13 Mentor

lows_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted
maybe the stainless inlet pipe has made your car slower/less powerful? I mean if that's the only thing you've changed and your power has gone down... how does it feel to you?

Power feels about the same after the S/S inlet mod.

Theres a lot more turbo sucking sound, thats about it.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The ambient temps clearly show the 2 runs weren't done on the same day, probably not even the same month! Is it any wonder then that you encountered differences. Although I would expect the colder day to produce better power.

Are both dynos the same model? Same manufacturer?

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

They say that each 3 degree increase in intake air temp makes a 1% reduction in power.

So for a 20 degree (at least) increase in temp thats probably 8% power just there, compounded by the hotter air going through the intercooler...

So more like 10-15% power drop from increased temp and your getting to be in the same ballpark kW reading.

Rhett

  • 3 months later...
Bumblebee Experienced

Bumblebee

Posted
Posted

im going with the 160 mark because near on 200kw? on 14psi with a tiny 2lt engine?? hahah no chance... not with a standard r33 turbo.. ive driven one of those b4 and damn they are torqueless and slow :rofl: sorry dude but theres no chance urs makin near on 200rwkw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • The Bogan
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • joshuaho96
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • PotatoCake
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • MBS206
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
×
×
  • Create New...