Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the GT30R hybrid like pixel8r, and its fine, Nismoid doesnt know what hes talking about, because he hasnt driven a car with one inside it. I say unless you have the turbo or have expereince and degrees in turbo dynamics and physics, then dont explain it.

I even added a front mount recently and boost has not been any noticeably laggier. and im only getting about 260km out of a tank, so after an ECU next thursday, it will be doing MUCH better.

The fact that he has a power fc before a turbo upgrade is a great start, and I think that changing his manifold, getting a GT3076R, an external gate setup, he would benefit and that is that. If he wants to spend the extra grand or whatever, then get the HKS brand name turbo, but Garrett in itself are well above average, and leaders in their own right.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have the GT30R hybrid like pixel8r, and its fine, Nismoid doesnt know what hes talking about, because he hasnt driven a car with one inside it. I say unless you have the turbo or have expereince and degrees in turbo dynamics and physics, then dont explain it.

I even added a front mount recently and boost has not been any noticeably laggier. and im only getting about 260km out of a tank, so after an ECU next thursday, it will be doing MUCH better.

260/tank? i hope that's city drivig because that's terrible even for a standard ECU

But if your fangin it hard, it's prolly OK

lol
Take the time to search. Your a new member here so obviously missed some of the key threads in years gone by :P

....so polite N'oids

I have the GT30R hybrid like pixel8r, and its fine, Nismoid doesnt know what hes talking about, because he hasnt driven a car with one inside it. I say unless you have the turbo or have expereince and degrees in turbo dynamics and physics, then dont explain it.

I even added a front mount recently and boost has not been any noticeably laggier. and im only getting about 260km out of a tank, so after an ECU next thursday, it will be doing MUCH better.

The fact that he has a power fc before a turbo upgrade is a great start, and I think that changing his manifold, getting a GT3076R, an external gate setup, he would benefit and that is that. If he wants to spend the extra grand or whatever, then get the HKS brand name turbo, but Garrett in itself are well above average, and leaders in their own right.

I have one, its ok for 12-14 psi, good streeter, push it to 17 psi and its a heat monster, little housings with big wheels means more friction = heat = knock knock anyone there!

Nismoid doesnt know what hes talking about, because he hasnt driven a car with one inside it. I say unless you have the turbo or have expereince and degrees in turbo dynamics and physics, then dont explain it.

Thats Fresh...

I was just talkin to a turbo shop this arvo and they reckon go with the GT3040 or GT3076 because they actually have the T3 flanges unlike the 28's u been saying to get.

They said the only difference is the compressor size which means u can get more power out if it, or the same at lower boost, therefore less stress on everything.

Spool up will be the same on the 3040 as to the 3076 as the exhaust side is virtually the same size.

They said a 600hp turbo (GT3040) is good for about 600hp at the flywheel which drops when converted to the wheels. So if im looking 400hp at the wheels this is the one for me they reckon, with room for more power if i wanna push it.

So from what i've been told from professionals who do this for a living, is to go with the GT3040 as apose to the GT3076 because they will both spool up equally as fast, and to achieve the same power on a GT3076 i will have to run more boost which will only limit the life of the turbo and engine.

Simple questions would be asking yourself at this stage, How old is the motor? How many k's has it done? With the House loan or what ever loan can I afford if i buy this turbo to buy a new engine or restore the engine if it blows up? If you can answer the last one you should be good to go the Gt3040 as there are some great results on them through out, Lag on them isnt that bad all depends on housing choice and alot of other factors as well Try the 0.63 housing for example on that one, Benefits would be held with both going external gate and also new manifold choice for this turbo as well and are best run at abouve 15psi usually for good power. I think the main concern out of the majority of arguments seem to lead back to the fact i can see is your running stock top/bottem ends.

To increase the margin slightly, i believe the HKS 3037S is also another good choice to look into, bolt in standard position get good results not too laggy, little bit more than stock, Thats always usually garanteed with any 30 series turbos Garret or hks, but would consider your choices wisely as most 30's are better run at 14 and above psi.

Best thing would also be to let us know, Yes the ultimate question, "What is your intended power goal" and "What is your budget for your proposed upgrade"

I hope that at least helps you on your way :ninja:

I was just talkin to a turbo shop this arvo and they reckon go with the GT3040 or GT3076 because they actually have the T3 flanges unlike the 28's u been saying to get.

They said the only difference is the compressor size which means u can get more power out if it, or the same at lower boost, therefore less stress on everything.

Spool up will be the same on the 3040 as to the 3076 as the exhaust side is virtually the same size.

They said a 600hp turbo (GT3040) is good for about 600hp at the flywheel which drops when converted to the wheels. So if im looking 400hp at the wheels this is the one for me they reckon, with room for more power if i wanna push it.

So from what i've been told from professionals who do this for a living, is to go with the GT3040 as apose to the GT3076 because they will both spool up equally as fast, and to achieve the same power on a GT3076 i will have to run more boost which will only limit the life of the turbo and engine.

Firstly the simple answer is pick a power level and purpose for that power (eg, strip, drag, drift, ect) then go for the smallest turbo that will do the job. This will give you power you want and also the response that makes a street car fun.

Secondly remember these 'professionals' are making money from you if you buy through them, if you go for a 3040 then they also make money off the ext gate, and then the new manifold when they say 'you know you could improve the response/power if you got this lovely manifold' and you go 'hey thats a good idea'. These forums are the best source of skyline knowledge in this country listen to what people here are saying.

My personal suggestion is to scab a ride/drive of some cars with these different setups, then make a choice from there.

I was just talkin to a turbo shop this arvo and they reckon go with the GT3040 or GT3076 because they actually have the T3 flanges unlike the 28's u been saying to get.

They said the only difference is the compressor size which means u can get more power out if it, or the same at lower boost, therefore less stress on everything.

Spool up will be the same on the 3040 as to the 3076 as the exhaust side is virtually the same size.

They said a 600hp turbo (GT3040) is good for about 600hp at the flywheel which drops when converted to the wheels. So if im looking 400hp at the wheels this is the one for me they reckon, with room for more power if i wanna push it.

So from what i've been told from professionals who do this for a living, is to go with the GT3040 as apose to the GT3076 because they will both spool up equally as fast, and to achieve the same power on a GT3076 i will have to run more boost which will only limit the life of the turbo and engine.

hahahaha gold what was my pick all along to suit your needs.....

Careful, you might actually be talking to people with real experience and/or knowledge obtained from tertiary level study.

hahaha.....what dont keyboard warriors compare to real experience or tertairy level study :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

buy the 3540 man i have a to4z on mine and its great easy to drive around off boost and just clutch it and your on boost straight away. Just because the turbo has a high horpower rating and your not going to use it dosent matter because the big turbo will alway flow much better at high rpm anway. So you will make more power with the biger one at same boost pressures.

I was just talkin to a turbo shop this arvo and they reckon go with the GT3040 or GT3076 because they actually have the T3 flanges unlike the 28's u been saying to get.

They said the only difference is the compressor size which means u can get more power out if it, or the same at lower boost, therefore less stress on everything.

Spool up will be the same on the 3040 as to the 3076 as the exhaust side is virtually the same size.

They said a 600hp turbo (GT3040) is good for about 600hp at the flywheel which drops when converted to the wheels. So if im looking 400hp at the wheels this is the one for me they reckon, with room for more power if i wanna push it.

So from what i've been told from professionals who do this for a living, is to go with the GT3040 as apose to the GT3076 because they will both spool up equally as fast, and to achieve the same power on a GT3076 i will have to run more boost which will only limit the life of the turbo and engine.

You dont want the 600hp GT30. I tell you that right now.

It doesnt spool as well as the smaller ones simply because the largest blade GT30 wheel, whilst it flows a lot, but takes a while to get going.

Its not what you want for a stocker engine. It wont be on boost (~17-20psi) till 4500rpm on the street. Simple as that.

If you "must" sit in the GT30 range, you want the smallest offering. The 500hp wheel'd option.

The 600hp GT30 with the big banger wheel will push around 300rwkw (400rwhp) without too much hassle, but dont expect a lot more from it.

30rwkw extra at the most on pulp. Thats largely dependant on how happy the dyno is aswell.

So you want 400rwhp now? Being you really havent thrown a number out anywhere.

You really should get in a 400rwhp car and you'll see its more than a handful for the street, its more traction nasty than friendly which doesnt make for a quick streeter.

buy the 3540 man i have a to4z on mine and its great easy to drive around off boost and just clutch it and your on boost straight away. Just because the turbo has a high horpower rating and your not going to use it dosent matter because the big turbo will alway flow much better at high rpm anway. So you will make more power with the biger one at same boost pressures.

lol. You have to "clutch it". Thats a way to move forward fast while your fighting wheelspin.

They use GT30R's on alot of drift cars. So if your aiming for 280kw, I think the GT30 is a good choice. i plan on running mine at 255-265kw range and I think it will do the job. Z32, injectors, ecu next week on thursday and im tehre after a tune.

HKS GT2835 PRO S KIT or HKS GT3037 PRO S KIT!

hks 2835pros - full boost under 3300rpm - 350hp @ 16psi.....

what more could you want? more power? then add some boost, and some cams and aim for around the 400hp figure with 18-20psi

BUT if you want more power go the 3037 pro s kit, seems pointless if u ask me .... i find 350 more than enough good enough to run a mid 12 or lower if u know wat ur doing behide the wheel

ohh and as for fuel eco, 400/450km out of the tank even running full boost every day...

-Michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So where is this message group so we can organise another meet? Keen to come along and catchup. Might eventually be in a skyline again next year, but the Mustang will have to do for now. Also need to get the WRX back on the road. Stupid f**king money pit that thing is.
    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
×
×
  • Create New...