Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Idle Problem Need Some Help!


avalanche
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. Go back to your stock bov

2. Get a plumb back bov

3. Get a tune

your atmo bov will be releasing a lot of air into the atmosphere, yet your air flow comp will read it as being in the system, so the fuel will be added as if there is that amount of air in there... but its not... any of the 3 will fix this problem... normally an atmo bov wont cause it to completely die at idle, it does create idling and gear changing problems, but not normall this bad... which is why i said get a tune..

anyway, hope one of those fixes it for you :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the bov i have i think is a plub bak though ( is that where a vacuum line sucks the valve open cuse its one of those) I dunno.

u know any tuning garages on the sunny coast?

thanks

a hks ssqv bov is atmo unless you have the recirc kit. is the plumback line blocked off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

man what the hell is drd off? :wave:

as for the original poster, you might want to save up some money and get a tune, you will notice that your car will run a shit load better... most well tuned skylines with atmo bovs wont actually stall, but if yours is, its a bit under the weather and could use a check up :wave:

i think you will like the change :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

hey guys mines doing the same thing but i'm running a plumbback BOV.. some1 said u can't tune a standard ECU and car setup.. plz help i've done everything i can think off and the problems still there..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

please try an alternate stock ECU

my old ECU was fried and i drove a car like this for 6 months lol - not fun looking like a tool revving your car at every set of lights.

swap it out and see if you know someone with an stock ECU'd r33

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi guys

May not be the problem but i found info in regards to small cracks/holes in the little vacuum line on the turbo

Also my car played up bad one day turned out the boost/vacuum line to my gauge was leaking a little causing same problems as listed above

I would go round the engine bay with a can of carby clean or start ya basterd and see if there is any leaks else were i know you said you checked for leaks but it dose'nt take much to create a problem

happy leak hunting

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Make sure your fuel pump dropping resistor is plugged in. If any work has been done on the aerial recently it is possible the resistor plug has been unplugged. It is located in the passenger side rear cavity behind the wheel arch (where the jack is located). It is a rectangular silver item with a 2 pin plug.

Cheers

Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You sorta can and you sorta can't. Do some research on Nistune.

Are you running an after market plumb back BOV? What else is installed?

i've also got a hdi GT spec hybrid intercooler, aftermarket coilpacks, a boost controller (only running 10 pound) and a HKS cat back exaughst system.. apart from that i'm stock.. i've checked for leaky hoses and i've tried a different ECU and i've replaced my air flow sensor..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great info @tidi0x  Will definitely be handy for others and maybe me if I decide to keep the shit box H pattern.
    • Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing.       
    • If the event in USA goes ahead will be interesting as it seems the rules will get more cars over here. Apparently the track is laguna seca too. Yeah s15, if I get a the lower dash trims, centre console and change front cross member to standard LCA position will fit clubsprint. See how rules are as i would rather do complete widebody than a bolt on flare to run the 295 with proper clearance.
    • If the car is legal height I can't see it being an issue. Found a thread on reddit that might offer some insight.   I got a ticket from a copper in QLD for my S15 being too low. They had this wheel thing on a stick that they put under the car and it hit my exhaust. Anyhow went to an exhaust shop to get the exhaust tucked up/hung a little higher and I wound the coilovers up a smidge. Don't think I even had to go back to the police station unlike when I got defected for having a carbon bonnet when I brought the S15 from the ACT to QLD and had to replace it and then rock up at a police station and have a yougish female officer who knew nothing about cars confirm that I had changed bonnets. Should have just painted the carbon bonnet yellow to match the rest of the car lol
    • Id like to race in the US i think alot of those track would suit me   For the s15? Youd be stuck between club sprint and the new Open Am wouldnt you depending on how much interior you have left in
×
×
  • Create New...