Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just picked up my R33 S2 on the weekend from a long distance purchase and the seller did not mention this item was in the car at all, I was all for ripping it out thinking it was only for people who could not change gears at the right time, untill I read this thread :whistling:

What a cool device.....

Unfortunately for me it did not come with any destructions, can anyone point me to a Website that has a downloadable User manual? If not, can anyone upload a scanned copy of there's? That would be appreciated, or even a basic instruction of use? I'd really like to get the launch control sussed.

Cheers

Its pretty simple to use dude. You have the two settings, REV1 and REV2. REV1 is your normal rev limiter so you set that to what you want it to be and leave it (obviously this needs to be a few hundred RPM less than your factory limiter). As its a pretty basic design you will need to use trial and error to find the correct adjustment for the setting. REV2 is your launch rev limiter (ie only active when your handbrake is up, assuming they connected the switch) so you set this to a nice sweet torquey spot in the rev range.

Gain is just the frequency of the cuts...no idea which way is which but one will be long loud bangs and the other short sweet pops.

ps, Im not 100% if I got the two settings the right way away, ie REV1 could be launch limiter and REV2 could be normal...you will figure it out.

I'm currently getting one of these fitted in my car and of course no instruction so i've done a bit of research for the r33 rb25

i'm about 95% sure i've got it figured

okay here goes:

ECU ____________________ Bee*R

pin 41(green/black) - yellow wire cas 120 signal

pin 42(green/yellow) - green wire cas 1 signal

pin 49(white) - red wire 12v

pin 50(black) - black wire (earth)

the white wire is for the second limiter and is commonly put to the hand brake

Red wire: 12V+

Black wire: Earth

Yellow wire: RPM Signal

Green wire: Ignition signal

now I've concluded to this from scrolling through the several japanese instructions and comparing it back to the r33 rb25 workshop

post-21949-1182419685_thumb.jpg

now if i've got anything wrong please let me know

cheers

Edited by Darkon

I'll be hooking up a switch to the clutch pedal to allow launch control and flat shift ability.

IE. When you hit the clutch, the Rev-Limiter drops spark to attempt to go back to say 4500rpm......

Keep right foot on loud pedal.

Change gear, drop clutch and bang, off you go again.

I've driven an R34 GTR with this set up through the Motec and the changes are so smooth you wouldn't believe it. and Lightening fast.

Has anybody actually had theirs fitted and is it working?

I had a look at the little dials, and it has numbers around the base, and the dial keeps clicking around.

How accurate can you get the rev limit point?

How many RPM between each click..... ?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 馃槀  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
  • Create New...