Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just picked up my R33 S2 on the weekend from a long distance purchase and the seller did not mention this item was in the car at all, I was all for ripping it out thinking it was only for people who could not change gears at the right time, untill I read this thread :whistling:

What a cool device.....

Unfortunately for me it did not come with any destructions, can anyone point me to a Website that has a downloadable User manual? If not, can anyone upload a scanned copy of there's? That would be appreciated, or even a basic instruction of use? I'd really like to get the launch control sussed.

Cheers

Its pretty simple to use dude. You have the two settings, REV1 and REV2. REV1 is your normal rev limiter so you set that to what you want it to be and leave it (obviously this needs to be a few hundred RPM less than your factory limiter). As its a pretty basic design you will need to use trial and error to find the correct adjustment for the setting. REV2 is your launch rev limiter (ie only active when your handbrake is up, assuming they connected the switch) so you set this to a nice sweet torquey spot in the rev range.

Gain is just the frequency of the cuts...no idea which way is which but one will be long loud bangs and the other short sweet pops.

ps, Im not 100% if I got the two settings the right way away, ie REV1 could be launch limiter and REV2 could be normal...you will figure it out.

I'm currently getting one of these fitted in my car and of course no instruction so i've done a bit of research for the r33 rb25

i'm about 95% sure i've got it figured

okay here goes:

ECU ____________________ Bee*R

pin 41(green/black) - yellow wire cas 120 signal

pin 42(green/yellow) - green wire cas 1 signal

pin 49(white) - red wire 12v

pin 50(black) - black wire (earth)

the white wire is for the second limiter and is commonly put to the hand brake

Red wire: 12V+

Black wire: Earth

Yellow wire: RPM Signal

Green wire: Ignition signal

now I've concluded to this from scrolling through the several japanese instructions and comparing it back to the r33 rb25 workshop

post-21949-1182419685_thumb.jpg

now if i've got anything wrong please let me know

cheers

Edited by Darkon

I'll be hooking up a switch to the clutch pedal to allow launch control and flat shift ability.

IE. When you hit the clutch, the Rev-Limiter drops spark to attempt to go back to say 4500rpm......

Keep right foot on loud pedal.

Change gear, drop clutch and bang, off you go again.

I've driven an R34 GTR with this set up through the Motec and the changes are so smooth you wouldn't believe it. and Lightening fast.

Has anybody actually had theirs fitted and is it working?

I had a look at the little dials, and it has numbers around the base, and the dial keeps clicking around.

How accurate can you get the rev limit point?

How many RPM between each click..... ?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...