Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just picked up my R33 S2 on the weekend from a long distance purchase and the seller did not mention this item was in the car at all, I was all for ripping it out thinking it was only for people who could not change gears at the right time, untill I read this thread :whistling:

What a cool device.....

Unfortunately for me it did not come with any destructions, can anyone point me to a Website that has a downloadable User manual? If not, can anyone upload a scanned copy of there's? That would be appreciated, or even a basic instruction of use? I'd really like to get the launch control sussed.

Cheers

Its pretty simple to use dude. You have the two settings, REV1 and REV2. REV1 is your normal rev limiter so you set that to what you want it to be and leave it (obviously this needs to be a few hundred RPM less than your factory limiter). As its a pretty basic design you will need to use trial and error to find the correct adjustment for the setting. REV2 is your launch rev limiter (ie only active when your handbrake is up, assuming they connected the switch) so you set this to a nice sweet torquey spot in the rev range.

Gain is just the frequency of the cuts...no idea which way is which but one will be long loud bangs and the other short sweet pops.

ps, Im not 100% if I got the two settings the right way away, ie REV1 could be launch limiter and REV2 could be normal...you will figure it out.

I'm currently getting one of these fitted in my car and of course no instruction so i've done a bit of research for the r33 rb25

i'm about 95% sure i've got it figured

okay here goes:

ECU ____________________ Bee*R

pin 41(green/black) - yellow wire cas 120 signal

pin 42(green/yellow) - green wire cas 1 signal

pin 49(white) - red wire 12v

pin 50(black) - black wire (earth)

the white wire is for the second limiter and is commonly put to the hand brake

Red wire: 12V+

Black wire: Earth

Yellow wire: RPM Signal

Green wire: Ignition signal

now I've concluded to this from scrolling through the several japanese instructions and comparing it back to the r33 rb25 workshop

post-21949-1182419685_thumb.jpg

now if i've got anything wrong please let me know

cheers

Edited by Darkon

I'll be hooking up a switch to the clutch pedal to allow launch control and flat shift ability.

IE. When you hit the clutch, the Rev-Limiter drops spark to attempt to go back to say 4500rpm......

Keep right foot on loud pedal.

Change gear, drop clutch and bang, off you go again.

I've driven an R34 GTR with this set up through the Motec and the changes are so smooth you wouldn't believe it. and Lightening fast.

Has anybody actually had theirs fitted and is it working?

I had a look at the little dials, and it has numbers around the base, and the dial keeps clicking around.

How accurate can you get the rev limit point?

How many RPM between each click..... ?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought DW was one of those things that people thought was the bomb ~10 years ago and since learnt not to use their stuff? Because it's not any better than a bunch of other options, and definitely worse than a number of other options.
    • There will be wiring, preferably crimping. The whole "skyline specific fuel pump" marketing that DW uses is a lie. It's just an ordinary fuel pump with all the ordinary bits that come with it. You still need to do all the wiring that you would have had to do otherwise if you bought something like a generic Walbro 525 pump.  Other things to consider (based on my horrible experience using DW pumps) * How is the fuel pump sock attached? On my old DW pump there was no locking mechanism, it was an interference fit and after a couple of years of driving, the sock came off. I now have a random fuel sock floating around in my tank =/ * Does the fuel pump have an internal check valve? My old DW pump didn't. Not having one is a pain. Just another thing to buy and faff about installing into your fuel line. I wish it was stated on the product box/online description 'no check valve'. The product description gave no indication if it had or didn't have one. I wouldn't have bought it had I known it didn't have an internal check valve.  * Consider the depth the factory fuel pump sock reaches in the tank. If you install the DW pump in the stock location and use the baby sized sock supplied, you will find yourself running out of fuel with like 15 litres of fuel still in the tank. + * Do you have any plans to use e85 in the future? Now is the time to install submergible e85 fuel lines in the tank.  
    • I have ad blockers and automation breakers (like NoScript) installed on all my browsers on all my devices. I have a PiHole at home and use other forms of DNS blocking to prevent the advertisers, and more importantly, the trackers from google, meta and all those other kunnts from watching what I do. They learn NOTHING! Or at least, as close to nothing as I can make it. I don't care if google knows that I'm searching for things. But they can get f**ked tracking my every move. Plus, when surfing donkey porn, the automation breakers help to prevent driveby trojan installers.
    • New DW300 Fuel pump, new fuel tank lid, new plastic lock all on the way!!! I'll be on ramen noodles for a week but at least my car will have a fresh fuel pump in over 20 years! Thank you everyone for your input ❤️ 
    • Really? I see ads for all the JDM parts on the bottom of threads  
×
×
  • Create New...