Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Sorry if this question has been asked 247099998 times before, but I searched everywhere and couldn't find a definite answer when it came to GT-R specifics. I'm guessing it will differ slightly from the differences between the GTS-T series'.

What is the differences between the following and how do you tell them apart easily?

  • R33 GT-R Series 1
  • R33 GT-R Series 2
  • R33 GT-R Series 3

Is it to do with the shape of the lights, bonnet, xenon lights, airbag standard/optional (driver and/or passenger), active LSD?

Thanks!

I never realised there was 3 series of the standard GTR :S i had a quick look and found this info but that's just different named GTR's Not too sure how reliable this info is either...

1995-1997 (R33)

The R33 was developed in 1995 as a successor to the venerable R32 model that Japan had gotten to know well. The engine in the R33 was nearly identical to the R32. It used the same turbochargers, and the same specification of transmission, although the syncros were made to be stronger. The base model R33 GTR weighs 1750kg.

The R33 GTR launched in January 1995 with the base model GTR and the Vspec model. The Vspec mode weighed 10kg heavier, and had sportier suspension resulting in lower ground clearance. The Vspec also featured the newer Attesa-ETS Pro all wheel drive system, which included an Active Limited Slip differential. The Vspec model also included a four wheel independant channel ABS braking system.

At the same time as the release of the R33 GTR, and GTR Vspec. Nissan released an R33 GT-R Vspec N1 model. Changes on the R33 N1 model are similar to the R32 N1 model. The car was made lighter, by removing the ABS, air conditioning, sound system, rear wiper, and the trunk carpet. The R33 GT-R Vspec N1 received the slightly revised R33 N1 engine.

A special edition R33 was released on November 3rd 1997. The car was called the 400R, with R standing for Racing. Developed with Nismo, it featured an overbored RB26DETT engine, the RBX-GT2, with polished ports, an upgraded exhaust, composite parts, and a more free flowing turbo and intercooler system. The car developed a staggering 450 Horsepower, and allowed the car a top speed of over 200mph.

Info from: http://www.answers.com/topic/nissan-skyline-gt-r

I like how the v spec gets ABS then the v spec n1 gets abs removed. why add it in the first place !

Edited by deant1
The base model R33 GTR weighs 1750kg.

Rubbish. Try Wipipedia for a better idea.

External differences for the R33 GTR are hard to seefor each series. Probably a more experiance person may be able to answer.

Saying that, many have been modded so much visual clues might be misleading.

Just found a website of another link that lets you compare cars. http://english.auto.vl.ru

The model numbers changed only in the year 1997. And from what iv read the differences are as follows:

1995 R33 GTR

6 cylinder DOHC24 valve IC twin turbo

5 speed floor shift with OD

1997 R33 GTR

Water cooling serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve IC twin turbo

5 speed manual

Rear fog lamp

Xenon headlight (Discharge lamp)

Apart from the obvious two, xenon lights and rear fog lamp i'm not sure if the other two i'v listed are the same but the website didn't bother listing the full specs for one of them?? Since i'm assuming they are both watercooled and i don't have a clue what 5 speed floor shift with OD is?????

Edited by deant1
  • 2 weeks later...

I have the series 3 r33 gtr

the series the comes with red stitching and inserts on the interior as well as the rear fog and xenon headlights. the gearbox is 5 speed manual without OD meaning that it is just another gear with similar ratios. So when u shift into it you are still accelerating forcefully. With the 5 speed OD ( series 1 and 2) the use of the 5th gear is for coasting/fuel economy.

I have the series 3 r33 gtr

the series the comes with red stitching and inserts on the interior as well as the rear fog and xenon headlights. the gearbox is 5 speed manual without OD meaning that it is just another gear with similar ratios. So when u shift into it you are still accelerating forcefully. With the 5 speed OD ( series 1 and 2) the use of the 5th gear is for coasting/fuel economy.

So is yours a 1997 or higher? just wondering if the website info is correct!

So is yours a 1997 or higher? just wondering if the website info is correct!

I also have a S3 gtr 33 Vspec and u get dual airbags, red stitching on seats and steering wheel, large front lip, xenons and i got a momo steering wheel as standard too :whistling: not sure wat else?

The gear ratios are the same in all 3 R33 GTRS and 5th is O/d on all, series III has improved synchros though.

Series III is the only one with red inserts in the seats ( others are blue). S III has bigger lower lip , rear foglight, an opening( cutout) on the passengers side front blinker, xenon h/lights that have a different top bracket to the other 2, GTR on the fuse cover in the engine bay and some s III have factory leather trim as well.

Series I cars have one airbag standard but some will have 2 ( was a factory option). Series I have different steering wheel to the other 2 and different dash suround ( flat ( not bubbly). Some series III had momo steering wheels .

I'm sure there are other differences that don't come to mind right now .

By the way none of them weigh anywhere near 1750 kg, depending on the spec GTR , they are all about 1500-1540 kg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi All, New member here, I've joined to help my son with an issue that is truly doing our heads in. I'll start with a bit of an overview. Chris carried out some modifications to the engine to try and extract just a little extra power out of the motor and make it a bit more efficient. Previous to this work, the car already had an upgraded exhaust, increased boost up to 14psi, modified standard turbo to metal impellers and slightly oversized, upgraded fuel pump, been dyno-tuned at JEM, and some other bits n bobs like coil packs etc. Before the current mods it was making 236rwkw at 14psi but after the new mods it now makes 209rwkw at 14psi. The work he carried out is as follows, timing belt service, water pump replacement, return to sump radium catch can, had oem head rebuilt and machined 0.2mm, fitted Athena cut ring head gasket 1.2mm thick, arp 2000 head studs, added rear prp head drain, added an external wastegate 40mm turbosmart welded off the stock manifold and plumbed back into a 3in dump. The car has been on the dyno and apparently the ignition is working, fuel flow and fuel pressure is fine, injectors are fine, spark plugs are working fine, Maf is working, O2 sensor is working, TPs sensor is working, VCT is working, CAS is working, boost leak test showed no boost leaks, compression test first crank cold 135psi and got to 150psi across all cylinders once cranking, timing is confirmed at tdc with a dial gauge and the cam dots line up, no blockages in intercoolerm throttle body or pre-turbo intake, no blockages in exhaust, cat conveter or down pipe, turbo looks fine and spins and wastegate looks fine and is new. Soz for all the detail but after all this, it has been in 3 times for dyno and each time comes back stating it's not going to make power. After the first (or second, can't remember now) trip to dyno we did find the timing out by one tooth and this improved things, but it is still well down. Does anyone have any ideas?  Any replies much appreciated as we're just not sure of which direction to take this. Regards Rob (Chris's Dad).
    • That's just a gauge, with a certain amount of electronic damping, and no-one cares if it is timely-accurate. I'd hesitate to use it for an ECU MAP input without knowing that it was a nice signal. Responsive but smooth. Not laggy. Not lumpy.
    • Took the dirty BMW to an actual drag meet so I could do a legit full pass on a sticky enough track and had a quiet goal to try and beat my PB in the old R33 GTS25t The time to beat:  R33 on stock RB25, Internal gate GT3076R on stock manifold tuned to about 17psi on BP98 and running on drag tyres: F20 M135i with intake, dump pipe and MHD OTS Stage 1 tune on street tyres - didn't even drop the tyre pressure: Kinda similar, and kinda way different
    • Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...