Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so before u go sayin shit.. ive looked around the search here and i cant really find what im after.. as the topic title says, i wanna know what model the standard turbo is on an R33 GTS-T. im lookin at purchasin one in the near future but currently am pricing things out and the turbo would b the first to go.. id want one with the same specs as the standard if i could just for peace of mind as i tend to like to "punch" the accelerater in my current ride.. ive looked everywhere on the web for the specs of the turbo but all ive found is that they are a ceramic turbo that can crack under high temps and hard drivin.. anything in regards to this is helpful cos i have always had a soft spot for the skyline and now it seems im able to do it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166739-r33-standard-turbo-specs/
Share on other sites

assuming R33 as its the most common

0.50 a/r compressor (ish)

0.60 a/r exhaust side (ish)

plastic/nylon compressor wheel

ceramic exhaust wheel

ball bearing

oil cooled

water cooled

it fails due to excessive heat and shaft speed. excessive heat from a poor tune or "too much boost" from the user being a stupidhead and trying to squeeze that extra psi or two into it.

it can also fail from excessive shaft speed which creates heat/friction from running massive amounts of boost. recommended rebuild interval i think is 100,000kms

assuming R33 as its the most common

0.50 a/r compressor (ish)

0.60 a/r exhaust side (ish)

plastic/nylon compressor wheel

ceramic exhaust wheel

ball bearing

oil cooled

water cooled

it fails due to excessive heat and shaft speed. excessive heat from a poor tune or "too much boost" from the user being a stupidhead and trying to squeeze that extra psi or two into it.

it can also fail from excessive shaft speed which creates heat/friction from running massive amounts of boost. recommended rebuild interval i think is 100,000kms

thanx for that!! even if its not quite right it gives me somewhere to look at in regards to findin a replacement for it. thanx for that info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SO whats the deal with this issue? I've read a heap of posts from the infinity owners in the US having full engine swaps done under warranty. Most claims are done on earlier cars than 2019 but I'm sure I've come across claims of 2020 models also having this issue. I like the 400r and Q50Red/S but can't fathom dumping close to 50k on a car with terminal issues!!! 
    • The above video is working normally. That is, that's how the right hand indicator should cancel when rotating the wheel left.
    • I noticed that I could see creatures on the moon when I turned my new headlights on. I thought I should check the alignment. It's pretty rudimentary but I just grabbed some dry wall and put it against my tablet and made sure the beam was below the height on the headlights. Ie the beam is at 600mm on my car, I just made it lower than that 7.5m away.  Not the best but it'll do until I can do it properly at the local shops.   
    • As @Duncan said - the bores are most likely to cop it. But anything can and does happen. Rods are cheap. Rods are good. The work to rebuild the motor will be 30x the price of rods. You won't notice it.
    • Yeah car has 110 on the clock. That said the front turbo (that exploded) doesn't seem to be the original, it has a S1 part number but the car is a series 3. Yep, in the cat is where I first found the turbine wheel pieces - a couple decent sized ones, then a whole lot of fragments.  I agree, probably makes sense to upgrade parts that are being replaced. Things like rods would be 'nice' but realistically it seems unlikely they would need replacing. I was hoping that it was a case that they generally f**k up the valves but not the bore, or vice versa. Is it generally the scour damage rather than ceramic bits getting mashed into the piston tops / valves? I tried a search but couldn't find any threads with pics from the guts of a motor that's had this happen. 
×
×
  • Create New...