Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So My S-II 33gts-t..

completely stock apart from these minor bolt ons;

> turbo back zorst

> pod filter

> fmic

> s-afc II

> 10psi R32 actuator

QUESTION = would there be ANY increase in performance if i were to sell the S-AFC II and get a Power FC ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166740-would-i-still-need-a-power-fc-if/
Share on other sites

So My S-II 33gts-t..

completely stock apart from these minor bolt ons;

> turbo back zorst

> pod filter

> fmic

> s-afc II

> 10psi R32 actuator

QUESTION = would there be ANY increase in performance if i were to sell the S-AFC II and get a Power FC ??

straight out of the powerfc faq;

Considerations before use

28. # Apexi SAFC vs Apexi PowerFC, whats the difference?

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#58

Apexi SAFC vs Apexi PowerFC, whats the difference?

My cousin Peter just brought an Apexi SAFC for his R33 skyline and he had it tuned and made 204rwkw. It cost him $300 and $250 for a tune. Most people simply assume you can make power and expect 220rwkw.

They will both make very close to the same amount of power if both have been tuned correctly. But clearly the PowerFC winds hands down if it has been tuned correctly and has a bulk of its load points tuned. If you have the IGN and INJ tuned in the low load / light load areas the car will feel much better to drive, response will be better and fuel economy better than the SAFC + stock ecu. The main difference is the PowerFC will support more mods and if tuned correctly will feel like a new car to drive.

Both are only as good as the tuner.

Car 1 - rb25det with SAFC

Car 2 - rb25det with PowerFC

The truth is that car #2 isn't likely to make twice the power as the ecu costs twice as much. It all comes down to tuning and how the car drives, average power is the key here. The engine should feel nice on throttle response (IGN timing), come on boost nice (IGN timing) and cuirse will with good economy (INJ tuning). I would expect the power difference to be 5 to 10rwkw at the most in the midrange and top end.

Distinct Advantages:

Adjustable IDLE

Configurable knock warning

Configurable injector warning

Configurable airflow meter warning

Airflow meter change support

Injector change support

Complete ignition map control

Complete fuel injection map control

No speed cut

no excess airflow cut (aka boost cut)

The main problem with an SAFC and increase power levels is that its still a piggyback and when you tune more and more, it's still a comprimise. As you try and lean it out more, it (the stock ecu) advances the timing as a result, which results in more detonation. The end result is it has to be richer than is needed, to avoid detonation. With the PowerFC you can simply dial in whatever AFR's you like and IGN timing to suit, anywhere on the map. This would certainly give a good power advantage in the midrange and top end.

You cant compare the two they are in completely differnt leauges!!

The Power FC will always make a much more substancial gain thatn somethats doing half a job.

There is good gains to be had with a well tunned power FC regardless of what anyone says. With the mods you have YES go and buy one have it tunned and enjoy a really good car even more.

And while your at it fit a cheap exhaust cam gear and have it set at the same time

Edited by Risking

i just read a post that you guys all spoke bout back in 2006' something about a REPLACEMENT for the loss of the Power FC

well??

it's been a year... APEXi still haven't released a replacement of the Power FC and they've stop't making it..

are we all stuck with the S-AFC II or NEO ??

i just read a post that you guys all spoke bout back in 2006' something about a REPLACEMENT for the loss of the Power FC

well??

it's been a year... APEXi still haven't released a replacement of the Power FC and they've stop't making it..

are we all stuck with the S-AFC II or NEO ??

well the safc II is discontinued also, so safc neo for now. Time will tell if apexi does release another ecu. The PFC is still a very capable unit though.

Edited by KeyMakeR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...