Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heres a link to my ad:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2938264

Am i asking too much? i paid $15k for it a over year ago and have only added 15000kms since then even tho its a daily. i also had a new HD clutch put in that wasnt cheap and new speakers, headunit etc.

why is it that the highest offer that i have gotten is $11500? sure i may need it sold soon but with me still owing a bit less than $5k on it, it would only leave me with about $5k for a another car and to get out of this shithole of a town. im gunna get pissed if i keep getting these stupid offers compared to what im asking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166873-how-much-is-my-r33-worth/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Would have thought it was a reasonable price. I would say your hard points of sale would be the front bar, side stickers and the dodgy photo quality. Try to get some better quality photos. Take your p plate off and I think remove the stickers. Then get some good photos. Good luck with it

Would have thought it was a reasonable price. I would say your hard points of sale would be the front bar, side stickers and the dodgy photo quality. Try to get some better quality photos. Take your p plate off and I think remove the stickers. Then get some good photos. Good luck with it

Too right, shopping lists on the side of cars is a major deterrant for most people. I never look at cars with "performance stickers" on the side, it means there is a better chance that the driver thrashes the car and feels the need to race everyone he lines up against at the lights.

you will eventually get a resonable price. just got to be a little patient and be prepared to negotiate. i was luck enough to pick my 1.5 95 line with 88,oooks for only 11. then i see some people selling stock 32s for 12.. so it all depends on the right buyer for your price.. some people are desparate, others arent. luck of the draw when it comes to a few thousand either side of the general market value. good luck with it anyway.!

theres a 10 sec gts-t here some where i saw for $17/18 k with over $20k of mods! i think $14k is a great price for a series 1 . spare a thought for us poor buggers that have paid $25k for series 1 6 to 7 years ago and spent $20 plus k. theres always people being bent over harder than you ! i could have bought a 95 gtr for $65k back in 2000 but instead i bought my series 1 gts -t for $25k. now 95 gtr are gong for $25 plus k!!!

Stand your ground & be patient as others have mentioned .... besides if the car yard near my house can try and sell a rough as 93 S1 with hectik chromies for $19,990 ;) (which has a deposit taken sign on it!) I don't see why you won't get $14k or close to it............

Unfortunately all the people that are desparate to sell are pushing the price down to $11-12k for an R33 with a few mods. So really, not much you can do.. There will always be somebody willing to let the car go for a stack less than you are, simply because there are so many around, and lots of others desperate to sell.

Being 'in the country' doesn't help either, as it's a couple of hours drive from melb if people want to look at it.

Unfortunately all the people that are desparate to sell are pushing the price down to $11-12k for an R33 with a few mods. So really, not much you can do.. There will always be somebody willing to let the car go for a stack less than you are, simply because there are so many around, and lots of others desperate to sell.

Being 'in the country' doesn't help either, as it's a couple of hours drive from melb if people want to look at it.

we all should not let this happen, no one should sell cheap. if all skyline owners didnt let them sell cheap, they could keep the market steady.

buyers cant buy a skyliner33gtst for 11k if no one will sell them one for 11k. if u catch my drift.

Edited by silverbulletR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...