Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ATTENTION CHANGES AS AT 25th July 2007

I still haven't had the opportunity to get all these parts to the wreckers.

However, I will be happy for someone to take the lot if they want.

I am willing to sell the whole lot for anyone who wants to come to the table with an offer.

It includes the entire interior (minus instrument cluster) all in good condition.

Diff

Head

Block (2 bent rods)

Radiator

FR headlight

FR guard

Fuel tank with fuel pump

Suspension

plus heaps more.

Will accept offers over $700

Everything is gone except for the seats and the block (with two bent rods).

I will take $200 for the seats, make an offer on the block (around $100).

Do not bother asking me for anything else, I do not have anything else left, sorry I cannot help you.

post-35362-1178002871.jpg

post-35362-1178002888.jpg

post-35362-1178002916.jpg

post-35362-1178002937.jpg

post-35362-1178002978.jpg

post-35362-1178003000.jpg

post-35362-1178003023.jpg

post-35362-1178003043.jpg

post-35362-1178003065.jpg

post-35362-1178003080.jpg

post-35362-1178003101.jpg

post-35362-1178003121.jpg

post-35362-1178003132.jpg

Edited by ProphetR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166919-wrecked-s1-r33-gts-t-sydney/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Does the motor start?

Flat battery at the moment, will be getting a new battery to test it out over the next 2 or 3 days.

General condition of the engine bay is as it was before the crash though, so I cannot see any reason as to why it wouldn't start.

Strange things happen in accidents. Have seen water pumps smash off, engines seize and stuff that looks straight not be.

Let me know via pm if the engine starts and runs at length without drama.

Thanks.

Strange things happen in accidents. Have seen water pumps smash off, engines seize and stuff that looks straight not be.

Let me know via pm if the engine starts and runs at length without drama.

Thanks.

No worries, will do.

sorry to hear about the accident mate.

but i'll shot gun front/dump pipe and hi-flow cat if it is going to be seperated.

PM me what you think they are worth :P

Cheers,

Chris

sorry to hear about the accident mate.

but i'll shot gun front/dump pipe and hi-flow cat if it is going to be seperated.

PM me what you think they are worth :)

Cheers,

Chris

Already recieved offers on the exhaust.

Front/dump pipe is 250 new, cat is 200 new.

Will take 275 for both (only fitted for about a month).

If the gearbox is still in good condition i would be keen for it

drop me a pm when u know with a price etc.

cheers

Gearbox is in good condition, was tight and driven on an unmodified car up until a month ago (until listed mods).

50,000kms on it.

$1400 would be a fair price I imagine.

Gday mate, you still got your little boost controller or are you gonna keep it for the next car?

Also are you busy this avo? I wanna come have a look, sorry I didnt back to you last week.

Hi

Sorry to hear about the car!!!!!!

Would you sell me the brake squeeler plates in the brakes.

There little metal plates in the brake assembly to stop squeeling my car didn't come with them

Thanks

how much for just the brake calipers and pads??

and how much for postage to Bris?

Cheers,

Beau

$250 for front and rear.

Postage you'll have to sort out for yourself, my postcode is 2234.

Ok everyone its now getting torn apart.

Everything is up for grabs except for my confirmed sales of

The Gearbox, tailshaft, Turbo back exhaust and FMIC.

Engine including loom $2000

ECU $100

Diff $350

Radiator $150

Throttle body $150

Standard turbo $330

Standard cat (2 months old) $75

Air box $75

Snorkel $50

Dry cell battery (vented) with good charge $30

Anything from undercarriage is salvagable, likewise with engine bay.

Exterior

Drivers door: $150 (Mirror damaged, otherwise good condition).

Rear left tail light assembly: $100

FR quarter panel (including blinker) $125

FR headlight $175

16" Alloy R33 Wheels $350

16" Space saver $150

Rear quarter windows, $30 each

Interior

Drivers seat $175

Passenger seat $175

Rear seat $200

All seats $400

Instrument cluster (48,000km on clock) $100.

Dashboard outer assembly (width of car, including glovebox) $250

Inner surround top (stereo, instruments, air con) $50

Gear stick surround $40

Center console (from rear glove box to front dash) $150.

Auto gauge, guages boost, AF ratio, volt $35 each, $100 for the lot.

Need any other parts? Just ask everything is available

Edited by ProphetR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is not a dual mass flywheel, so you will get some gear noise on a BNR34 unless you deviate from the OEM fluid spec and run a thick gear oil like what Nismo recommended for a while. Unfortunately I have never weighed the flywheel by itself prior to installation but it is not that light. It's probably an 8-9 kg flywheel. OEM BNR34 dual mass flywheel is like 14 kg which is kind of hilariously heavy. 
    • Got around to installing the Tomei Cam Cap Studs and the Hypertune cam baffles/splash guards. Unfortunately, I was not aware that the cam cap studs do not clear the stock RB25 internal cam cover baffles. Some research found a set from boostdoc which includes a replacement cam cover baffle and full length cam baffle + tools and fasteners. but I'm not keen on re-buying what I have already bought. So the plan is to take the hard route and modify the existing cam cover baffles to clear both the cam cap studs and the hypertune cam baffle plate. I assume there must be people who have gone through this even just to convert from cam cap bolts to cam cap studs? If so any tips would be appreciated. Otherwise I think I will mark where the cam cap studs foul, drill clearance holes in the cam cover baffle, and remove the cam cover baffle oil returns to clear the  hypertune baffle plate. I will also need to remove the baffle and drill and tap threads to bolt it back on so i can clean out any swarf. Fuel tank foam as extra cam cover baffling?
    • The incoming weather event seems to be affecting people in weird ways....🤣 And no, whilst there is some fancy engineering going on, I have no real interest in anything rotary really I had a Capella in the 90's, the rotary engine is way to temperamental, and extremely thirsty for my liking  If I won lotto and wanted to waste a ton of cash, a boosted K-swap would be what I would look at, until then, the N/A MZR2.5 will be at home in the engine bay of the NC A build like this, just without the idiotic street pulls and skids would be interesting to waste a huge amount of money on https://youtu.be/EgqAoVtUD1E?si=n3_umivrUPP8C9Cs
    • Now we're getting somewhere. All we need is a fractional rotor system so we can also have the RX3 and 5 back, and the world will be right again.
    • With that engine being a one rotor, would that make this into an RX4?
×
×
  • Create New...