Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of buying the G-TECH on-board dyno, it reads your 1/4 mile time, hp,0-100 time,storage of drag times and a lot more. Its plugs into the cigarett lighter socket and thats it, i have no idea how it works and can tell so much info from this? it retails from $535au. Does any one have one or know how they work? and if so do they give a correct reading?

Cheers

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167188-g-tech-on-board-dyno/
Share on other sites

ive got one of the earlier gtech meters and ive never used the rear wheelpower measurement but ihave used the 0 to 100 km/h and quartermile function. now i cant verify how accurate 0 to 100km is but the terminal speed for quartermile was pretty much spot on for what it was on my time slip at the legal off street drags. and i found that using the o - 100km/h function actually helps you to work out how many revs to drop your clutch at and how best to feed the power through the drive line to get the best results ie: i was getting hih 5 sec o-100 km/h with wheelspin when i dropped the cluth at 6000rpm with 280rwkws and then found that launching the car at 4000rpm gave me low 5s seconds 0 to 100 . then i found that reving the car to redline in 1st gear to second gear was giving too much wheel spin , so id short shift first gear to second and id come up with high 4s second 0 to 100 km/h on shitty street tyres . then it made better at getting a better 60 footer at the drags e.t.c. so i found the g-tech to be a good tool for this.

there is debate. i've seen very accurate results yet others hate them

As per the doco, the number it gives you (especially in the higher gears) will never read the same as a dyno. There's no wind resistance to influence the numbers on a dyno.

In the lower gears, where you're not going as fast, its meant to be quite accurate if you get the weight and calibration right.

I have the latest G-Tech PRO RR set up correctly its only thousandths of a second off the time boards at the track and almost spot on in its MPH times sometimes its perfect. We always weigh the car at scruiteneering and put the correct weight in (remember to weigh yourself too) this is critical to have the unit work correctly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
    • For anyone that comes here looking for answers on what can go wrong with gts-4 to rb25detneo swap. The Gloria's awd sump is different and does not fit. The rb25neo from stagea are exactly the same sump bolt pattern and axel alignment. Castings numbers are different on Gloria's blocks and oilpans if they need to be identified.
    • I have information on this for anyone that comes looking again. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18gsbFaYTU/ The rb25det neo from the stagea has the same sumo as rb26 and r32 gts4 (and other awd models). The sump that has caused so many problems during swaps are from the awd neo Gloria's. The casting numbers on the block and oil pans are different so this may help identify if you can't confirm where the motor came from
    • Not feasible to fix the boot lid you had? Damage looked minor/hard to even see :p Source: Drove into something recently and you should be happy you didn't!
    • Another new used boot arrived at the painters, it was sent back as there was nearly as much damage as the original one I want to replace  Finding a clean used boot lid is proving problematic, and I'm not keen on dropping $1500 on a new one from Mazda Sigh....
×
×
  • Create New...