Stagea Suspension/coilovers

[stasis]

but still, if i were to raise it even two inches, and use anything less than 8k all around, there would be so much bodyroll it wouldnt do any good.

might as well get lowering springs then...and THEN with a 3 inch exhaust, due to the lack of stiffness, the exaust would drag

only reason i can be as low as i want to is becuase i have a presubframe dump.

and he never said what he needed it for

you guys can show the normal stuff, i can show the higher end track type coilovers that give you more adjustment..thats all

and i know id hate it if i had anythign less than a 10k 8k setup personally

Hei Grant ypu are in Japan right?! go an order yourself 2 issues of Hypere mag on stageas. read through the parts for the specs on the suspension section. You will find all the anwers in that book.

Frankly in my opinion in regaeds to suspension nothing can beat blistein in my opinion. blistein are firm but subtle. If i had the $$ i would buy it off from SK for the coilovers.

[yokotas13]

ive got a copy of the hyper rev...the new one.

but dont get me wrong

for daily driving and spirited im sure the whiteline/bilstein will work great

but i was looking for more, and he might be as well...thats all im tryign to say

[stasis]

have you taken a look on the tein flex or the apexi N1s? both of them are coilovers. Or the aragusta suspension?

[yokotas13]

that aragusta is AWESOME

i wanted it so bad, but i jsut didnt have the budget for it

the shop i go to called Essential, the owner uses it on his S15 for grip racing, and loves it completely...when you order them, almost every single feature is customizable, from the inverted or normal tubes, to length of the shock, valving, spring rates, length of the shaft ont eh shock, etc etc

its a great setup

I dont liek flex, they are valved to soft for my liking

apexi is just as good as anything, i wasnt very impressed on the 180 i drove with them...kinda a in the middle coilover like CST, K sport, Dmax, etc etc etc

all the universal put your own business name on them coilovers

[stasis]

that aragusta is AWESOME

i wanted it so bad, but i jsut didnt have the budget for it

the shop i go to called Essential, the owner uses it on his S15 for grip racing, and loves it completely...when you order them, almost every single feature is customizable, from the inverted or normal tubes, to length of the shock, valving, spring rates, length of the shaft ont eh shock, etc etc

its a great setup

I dont liek flex, they are valved to soft for my liking

apexi is just as good as anything, i wasnt very impressed on the 180 i drove with them...kinda a in the middle coilover like CST, K sport, Dmax, etc etc etc

all the universal put your own business name on them coilovers

you are damn fussy isnt it? LOL!! .

But yea aragusta is nice but the options in it a lot of them we wont have the chance to use it i think.

ALso i think you might want to take a look at the blistein setup with eibach springs? they are one of the best ones money can buy. Its firm but not haesh. Had a set of them when i wan in Universty back in the US when i was driving a 325i 4dr. Wasnt into jap car at that time. It was low. had 18"x9" up to the fender only 1 index finger wide . It was perfect.

[yokotas13]

you cant cornerweight springs and struts

[stasis]

please explain?

[yokotas13]

cornerweighting is a process of putting your ca ron 4 scales, put the weight in there that woudl normally be in it at the track (be it drift/autocross/grip/whatever)

Add your weight in the driver seat

they then adjust the height of each corner (or preload, depending on how you want to do it, i do height so my preload stays constant) so that the front two wheels bear the same weight, and the rear wheels do the same

at this point you can also see your weight bias, and add or remove weight as needed (if you can)

again 90% of people will never go through the pain int he butt that this is....but i do it every few months, or whenever i make a significant adjustment due to rubbing, which i need to do in the rear about a half an inch. ill get my first cornerweight on the stagea done once i get hte turbo in

[stasis]

cornerweighting is a process of putting your ca ron 4 scales, put the weight in there that woudl normally be in it at the track (be it drift/autocross/grip/whatever)

Add your weight in the driver seat

they then adjust the height of each corner (or preload, depending on how you want to do it, i do height so my preload stays constant) so that the front two wheels bear the same weight, and the rear wheels do the same

at this point you can also see your weight bias, and add or remove weight as needed (if you can)

again 90% of people will never go through the pain int he butt that this is....but i do it every few months, or whenever i make a significant adjustment due to rubbing, which i need to do in the rear about a half an inch. ill get my first cornerweight on the stagea done once i get hte turbo in

Have you tried drifting your car?

[yokotas13]

eh, it works

but it cant sustain a drift due to the open diff....but i haev that fixed. im going tomorrow to buy my nismo 2 way.....

[Sydneykid]

Using spring rates to do everthing is not the right solution, technically or practically, in the real world.

Stabiliser bars control the roll, that's their job. Regardless of height, if you have too much roll, then the stabiliser bars are simply not big enough. To control the same amount of roll with springs, you have to use spring rates that are 4 times higher than the stabiliser bars rates necessary to control the same amount of roll. That leads to pretty frightening spring rates.

Anti dive and antir squat geometry controls those functions, using spring rates to do it further increases the amount of unnecessary spring rate.

Bump valving in the shock absorber is there to control the compression of the suspension. Their best work is done at lower frequencies, like dips and other road altitude changes, using spring rates to do it further increases the amount of unnecessary spring rate.

If you need 12/10 kg/mm spring rates then you obviously have insufficient anti roll, poor bump valving and incorrect dive and squat geometry. By using that amount of spring you are simply puting a band aid over the real problems. And generating a bone jaring ride and poor traction at the same time.

Moving on, I read all time about how having separate height adjustment (on the shock) is somehow a good thing. This couldn't be further from the truth. Threaded feet on shock absorbers is simply a cost reduction method. It enables the shock manufacturer to use one shock body in multiple applications by simply screwing on a different lower mount. This gives them economies of scale, more sales for the same amount of tooling/set up. For example, using the same body for an R32GTST (eye bottom) and an R32GTR (fork bottom) by simply screwing on the relevant lower mount. The problem is, this only works (as a cost reduction) if the shock valving is not changed, hence you get GTST shocks with GTR valving or vice versa. This is hardly a good thing.

Secondly, there seems to be a self perpetuating mythe (urban truth perhaps) that changing the preload on the spring somehow alters the spring rate. RUBBISH, on a 200 lbs per inch linear spring it takes 200 lbs to compress it the first inch, exactly the same 200 lbs as it takes to compress it any other inch.

People look at the preload on the spring before they put the spring shock unit in the car, raising the height of the lower spring seat may increase that preload (helper spring or variable spring rate compression being the exception). But that is IRRELEVANT when the shock/spring unit is placed in the car. The preload on the spring is determined by the weight of the car, so unless you change the weight of the car, the preload on the spring remains the same.

So don't fall into the trap of thinking that a separate height adjuster is in any way beneficial, it is simply marketing spin put on something that was initiated as a cost reduction method.

cheers

[yokotas13]

maybe with linear spring rates it is useless

but preload with prgoressive springs (which sprint has avaliable) not only will tailor a ride, but increase preload pregressively

and yes on a linear spring it is useless except for safety

the main problem with preload only adjustable suspensions is when you lower it, it removes tension from teh spring, and creates a gap as another gentleman was complaining about from the whitelines.

that is unsafe

i have seen it myseld on preload only adjustable suspension at the track, break, becuase the spring unseats while there is no load on teh suspension and leans over in the seat, making the strut come down on it, and shearing the shaft

more than once

you say all you want

but the preload only suspensions are garbage IMO. extremely limited adjustability

if thats what you want to pay for then go for it. id rather spend a few hundred more and get fully adjustables

also on a anti roll note

Sway bars can only do so much.

im not going to custom make a sway bar, i alreayd have a 30mm S14 rear sway on my car, and it still has to much roll

so...spring rates will have to do it

and im drifting, traction doesnt matter (but thats only for me)

adn on a side note, it really sounds like your pushing the groupbuy you made, becuase well, if you didnt have one, i honestly think youd agree that the dual adjustable setup is superior.

at around 1,000 USD you can get fully adjustable setup that anyone could use, weather they need it or not. It IS superior in adjustments and sometimes quality DEPENDING ON YOUR INTENDED USE

if your just a weekend driver, then im sure some clips on a shock body will do it. But for people that want REAL performance adjustments and not just an appearance and mediocre improved handling IMO.

you have to sacrifice comfort for a remarkable increase in handling.

becuase JGTC cars use only preload adjustment im sure....or time attack cars....or major drift leagues.

Im callling BS on about 60% of the post you made sydney kid

Not that im trying to be mean, just that your making it seem like there is no advantage to a different type of setup......at all

[R DIRTY 3]

maybe with linear spring rates it is useless

but preload with prgoressive springs (which sprint has avaliable) not only will tailor a ride, but increase preload pregressively

and yes on a linear spring it is useless except for safety

the main problem with preload only adjustable suspensions is when you lower it, it removes tension from teh spring, and creates a gap as another gentleman was complaining about from the whitelines.

that is unsafe

i have seen it myseld on preload only adjustable suspension at the track, break, becuase the spring unseats while there is no load on teh suspension and leans over in the seat, making the strut come down on it, and shearing the shaft

more than once

you say all you want

but the preload only suspensions are garbage IMO. extremely limited adjustability

if thats what you want to pay for then go for it. id rather spend a few hundred more and get fully adjustables

also on a anti roll note

Sway bars can only do so much.

im not going to custom make a sway bar, i alreayd have a 30mm S14 rear sway on my car, and it still has to much roll

so...spring rates will have to do it

and im drifting, traction doesnt matter (but thats only for me)

adn on a side note, it really sounds like your pushing the groupbuy you made, becuase well, if you didnt have one, i honestly think youd agree that the dual adjustable setup is superior.

at around 1,000 USD you can get fully adjustable setup that anyone could use, weather they need it or not. It IS superior in adjustments and sometimes quality DEPENDING ON YOUR INTENDED USE

if your just a weekend driver, then im sure some clips on a shock body will do it. But for people that want REAL performance adjustments and not just an appearance and mediocre improved handling IMO.

you have to sacrifice comfort for a remarkable increase in handling.

becuase JGTC cars use only preload adjustment im sure....or time attack cars....or major drift leagues.

Im callling BS on about 60% of the post you made sydney kid

Not that im trying to be mean, just that your making it seem like there is no advantage to a different type of setup......at all

[captinsane]

stock compliance tyres suck balls... my side walls roll a ton and i popped a bead doing a hill run "gently" last night.. lots of fun... just a tiny crack off the paint on the front bar..otherwise all ok (thanks for asking) but yer... going to get new tyres.

Running stock rims - 225/50 R16's Nanking x500 or some garbage.

[yokotas13]

the federal ss595s are pretty grippy for hte price. i went touge with them, and didnt have a problem

[R DIRTY 3]

the federal ss595s are pretty grippy for hte price. i went touge with them, and didnt have a problem

I have used the 595rs "semi slicks". Not a bad tyre. Got 20,000km out them with about 80% road use and 20% track use on a skyline.

For the price, cant complain!

[yokotas13]

with RS in a 225/40/18 being 120 a tyre and the SS being 80

For the price i can definately not complain

they are even CHEAPER in 17s!!!! liek under 100 bucks shipped