Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PCV is there to stop blow by pressurising the crank case. the reason I believe it would be better to put it through a filter first is that the contaminants in the crank case fumes can be somewhat removed by the process of filtration - so a catch can would be better than just plumbing those gases straight into the plenum. Any contaminents in the gases would effect the combustion process and therefore reduce power and economy - very slightly though, but none the less, would be detrimental. Unfortunatley it is not legal to vent these gasses to atmoshpere, so you would have to plumb them back somewhere.

I do know what you mean about coolers getting coated. I noticed on mine when I fitted a front mount that the intake side was black from oil and contamination - hardly helpful to the cooling process.

All of this would be from when driving on boost, as when not on boost the gases plumb directly into the plenum. The problem is the oil/contaminates that gets suspended in the gas from the crankcase, coat the cooler. Thus the creation of the catch can, or breather if you want to vent to atmo.

A good catch can will remove this contamination, therefore making the only downside to recirculating burnt gasses that there is no oxygen, but at least all the nasty rubbish isnt going directly into the plenum, so combustion would be effected to a lesser extent than if the gasses were plumbed directly into the plenum.

So, in summary, the amount of oil and contamination should be well within the capability of any decent catch can, as it is moving at low velocity, and isnt of a sufficient quantity to have a negative effect on the cooler - this only may happen if the catch can isnt particularly well designed, and when on boost, not when at idle/cruise conditions.

Basically, everything to gain and nothing to loose.

  • Replies 153
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

By the sounds of it you basically agree with me then (?) You no longer think its a good idea to get rid of the line to the plenum?

Just a few things though.

"PCV is there to stop blow by pressurising the crank case."

The two rocker cover outlets alone would stop this as any pressure could easily escape through them.

"All of this (crap inside the cooler) would be from when driving on boost, as when not on boost the gases plumb directly into the plenum."

True, but only when you leave the PCV system intact like how I discribe, otherwise the crap will go through the cooler at all times (albeit filtered with a catch can)

Look at brownies last drwing or my drawings, the PCV system is still there AND it still filters the gasses that go into the plenum! (the only differance between mine and his, is that mine uses active crankcase scavenging)

In either of our systems you get the benefits of filtering the gasses at ALL times AND you have the benefit of the gasses only going through the cooler sometimes.

Surely thats a good thing, right? I mean, why not do it that way if you can? Thats my gripe.

"Basically, everything to gain and nothing to loose."

Heres a dodgy scenario with figures plucked directy from my arse. I will choose figures that make it easier to understand and might not necissarily be what would happen but the will do to show the point.

(A) Blocked PCV with catch can fitted. Catch can filters 90% of the oil out. But the gasses go through the cooler 100% of the time.

(B) Dead standard system with no mods at all. It leaves 100% of the oil vapour in the gas. But 90% of the time the gasses go straight into the plenum and NOT through the cooler.

In that scenario the potential for clogging the cooler is the SAME for the catchcan system with blocked PCV line, and the standard system. The contaminents in the vapor are much less with the catch can system, but they flow through the cooler much more often. The benefits tend to cancel eachother out somwhat no matter what figures you use.

The catch can system is still better than stock because, the OVERALL amount of contaminents that reaches the ENGINE will still be 90% less than stock. But the amount of contaminents that will reach the COOLER will be similar.

© Catch can fitted with PCV intact, see brownies last pic or my pics. You still get ALL the benefits of (A), and you get ALL the benefits of (B). Would you agree that in that case there realy is everything to gain and nothing to loose?

Agreed filtering all the gasses would be ideal, (well nearly, venting them to atmo would be ideal, but illegal) and have them go through the plenum when not boosting, instead of the cooler, is better than having all the gasses go through the cooler all the time.

Just think that for the work involved, as the amount of contamination of the cooler from cruise idle blow by would be miniscule, versus blocking the line from the rocker cover to the plenum - just not too sure it would be worth the extra buggerising around and the extra hoses 'untidying':) the engine bay. For me anyways. I like to keep things neat.

Wouldnt it be easier to have two catch cans, one before the air intake, one between the rocker cover and plenum? - would be alot neater ;)

  • 1 month later...

Thanks guys...

Paul,

The catch can you are talking about. Is it one line in, and one line out (back to intake) and this line carrys just air not vapour. Correct?

The can i showed in my beautiful diagram was two lines in...and then just a breather at the top. But yeah like Steve said only one line really needed.

Dennis,

it only looks like i'm banned. :)

Thanks again,

Scott

  • 1 month later...
Guest MrEscortCosworth

oil/air seperater are legal if they do recirculate, and not vent to the air.

if your a smartassss to the cops they will pick on you and most of us dont know the law that well so they get away with a bit. i was under the impression that they are not allowed to look under the bonnet but hey, whats gonna be illegal, just make sure it all looks good and recirculate your bov, cos thats the main thing...

regards Anthony

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...