Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at doing the same thing myself. Looked into it a bit, u will have to fit a 3 speed shifter and then wire up the o/d somewhere. U will be able to ratchet the first 3 gears, but have to play the o/d switch for forth.

No 2 ways around this as far as i am aware.

Another thing u could do would be use a 3 speed shifter and wire up the o/d via missile switch or something.

Then u could ratchet the 1st 3 gears, but the o/d we constantly on, therefore 3 to 4th occurs automatically. Which defeats the purpose of having stage 3 if it only does some of the gears.

Had a look at a car this arvo with this set up and the owner assures me it works as its intented, an he said the o/d thing isnt that big of a drama at all.

Edited by sxc33
Another thing u could do would be use a 3 speed shifter and wire up the o/d via missile switch or something.

Then u could ratchet the 1st 3 gears, but the o/d we constantly on, therefore 3 to 4th occurs automatically. Which defeats the purpose of having stage 3 if it only does some of the gears.

Had a look at a car this arvo with this set up and the owner assures me it works as its intented, an he said the o/d thing isnt that big of a drama at all.

thanks for that, where was the o/d switch placed in his car?was it relayed to the power?

  • 1 year later...

Use a 3 speed B&M pro ratchet shifter with the optional button knob.

This is what I will be doing soon and should make switching to overdrive a breeze.

Here is a link to the button knob.

http://www.jegs.com/i/B&M/130/46112/10002/-1

Another thing u could do would be use a 3 speed shifter and wire up the o/d via missile switch or something.

Then u could ratchet the 1st 3 gears, but the o/d we constantly on, therefore 3 to 4th occurs automatically. Which defeats the purpose of having stage 3 if it only does some of the gears.

Had a look at a car this arvo with this set up and the owner assures me it works as its intented, an he said the o/d thing isnt that big of a drama at all.

You can't leave 4th-o/d constantly on, as this interfears with 2nd, trust me I tried this for daily driving.

If you go stage 3, it is manual shifting all the time.. including the switch.

  • 3 weeks later...

Trying to sell my car, but f**k it, i am gonna order this electronic lock out box in the next week or 2 and report back here.

I have a B&M megashifter, can ratchet the first 3 gears, with the O/D wired via a simple on/off switch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...