Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Paul,

Yeah it does seem like that's what he's done. The car is lifeless.

Moonus,

I checked the cat, the honeycomb thing is still intact but its just a standard hiflow one with 3" ends, maybe i should try metal cat. He said it's getting enough fuel, and we also got new spark plugs in there. but a colder 7 range. would that affect it?

sounds like something is holding it back.

The thing is if i get someone else to tune it, then i may have to fork out around $200 and what if the next tuner says the same thing or they can't find the problem. i don't mind paying $200 for a tune if the problem goes away or if they find the problem.

I have to ask, do you have a standard dump and what boost controller do you run? Which intercooler? I had exactly the same problem, now solved.Try to remember the hiflow is not a very efficient exhaust housing and can cause problems in this timing area.I don`t care what people say, the power is usually limited to 220kw but I will concede some have done better.Which is why i ask about setup. :P

skylinecouple,

I got one of those 3" bellmouth front/dump pipe in one. I'm running a Greddy profec B II boost controller and a Hybrid intercooler( has a limited edition drift plague on it if that means anything). However the intercooler is sitting behind the stock serie 1 front bar ( for stealth) i was told this should be ok, as it's not a track car and i won't be running that much power.

How did you fix your problem? I don't really mind if the peak power is only 220rwkw, but the midrange is just dreadful. There is no kick. Just for interest sake i had a rolling run (2nd gear) with my mate who has a stock turbo and he was keeping up with me.

Before the detune the car had massive midrange and then would ping up top. but now it doesnt ping but no midrange..

what mods have you done to yours? what power?

Take it back to matty...( i also got tuned from hitman, highly recommended.)

I am suffering from the same issue sometimes? in the cold weather only?

The boost is rising in the more then perfect conditions(very cold). The solution for me is to get a boost control device to stop this from occuring.

Eg. On a hot day it runs better then in the cold weather?

Cheers

my tuner said that the PFC is self correcting it and pulling it back to protect the engine.

That was so funny I just pooped a little.

Sorry to say this, but your tuner doesn't know what he's doing. Sure you like him and you feel bad taking the car somewhere else, but is that important enough to you to let him potentially DAMAGE YOUR MOTOR? Would you feel better then?

PFCs have no knock retard. None. They can flash the check engine light at you but unless you move that right foot of yours the car will ping itself to death.

multiple batches of bad fuel is unlikely, unless you filled up from the same place or got unlucky and filled up at 2 servos when a petrol tanker was dumping fuel and stirring up all the crap in the servo's underground tanks.

One of my friends had his car tuned by someone who was a "really nice guy" - turns out the tune was dangerously lean. Always take it to someone who knows their stuff.

Thanks for all the replies. I have spoken to Adam from JEM (JEM did not tune my car) who told me that he knows and respects the person who tuned my car. he said that the problem is more than likely mechanical rather than tuning.

He said this is an odd problem, which cannot be fixed with any tuning.

I read in a HPI mag where they were tuning their R32 project car, and with the GTR hi flow cat it was pinging but then the pinging stopped when they changed to a metal cat.

I then spoke to Indy from ISMOtor racing and he said that i should not be running that much boost throguh stock internals. i should only be running 14psi max!!

Either way he was keen to get to the bottom of the problem and said bring the car in and he will check it out.

So i will arange to take it to him soon.

The only thing is how do i know if my PFC has been locked by the previous tuner?

I then spoke to Indy from ISMOtor racing and he said that i should not be running that much boost throguh stock internals. i should only be running 14psi max!!

Meh, i've got friends running more than that (16+psi, 270rwkw). The thing to remember is that the candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long. Maybe you can run 14psi for 3 years, 18psi for 1 year and 20psi for 6 months after which you need a rebuild. I pulled those numbers out of my bum, when you start to lean on the motor hard your tune becomes very important.

Deffinately take the car else where mate. My guess is your tuner is unfamiliar with the powerfc and doesnt know how to tune it properly. With the knock levels you were experiences you could kill your engine pretty quickly.

it wont pull timing as water temp goes up, once water temp is 80deg or higher correction is 1.0 (so no correction)

in fact, it actually advances the timing and runs richer under 80deg to get the engine to optimum temp

i dont see a correlation to knocking and water temp or 80deg ?

My Old tuner said that when my car is pinging, the water temp rises to about 90. usually it is around 84.

He said that when it detects a rise in water temp, the PFC will pull it back abit.

Is this true?

I have datalogit logs of mine pinging and it doesn't affect water temp.

IF water temp were to rise due to detonation it would have to be rattling extremely bad which would most definitely = blown ring lands within a very short period of time.

Your tuner is a worry if that is really what he has stated.. Take it some where else before you loose a motor.

Thanks for all the replies. I have spoken to Adam from JEM (JEM did not tune my car) who told me that he knows and respects the person who tuned my car. he said that the problem is more than likely mechanical rather than tuning.

He said this is an odd problem, which cannot be fixed with any tuning.

I read in a HPI mag where they were tuning their R32 project car, and with the GTR hi flow cat it was pinging but then the pinging stopped when they changed to a metal cat.

I then spoke to Indy from ISMOtor racing and he said that i should not be running that much boost throguh stock internals. i should only be running 14psi max!!

Either way he was keen to get to the bottom of the problem and said bring the car in and he will check it out.

So i will arange to take it to him soon.

The only thing is how do i know if my PFC has been locked by the previous tuner?

Mate i got my tune done by Adam too, great bloke and really does know his stuff. I had the same problem and all it turned out to be was a massive air leak from my carbon canister! Car still does ping high every now and again but also found out my cat conv is still only 2.5 inch and the exhaust is 3inch so thats next to get done.

Yep,

Try a new tuner. I had a niggling pinging problem with my car after I fitted the cams.

Road tuned the knock as much as we could, but still not perfect.

Took the car to Racepace (along with a new turbo, injectors etc) and the thing is perfect. NEVER knocks.

Adzmax had a similar problem. Just a tune and exhaust. Had a tune from a reasonable shop but was never happy with it.

Took it to the right tuner and picked up enormous amounts of power through the midrange.

Some tuners know what they are doing more than others.

Try a new tuner. Pay as much as you have to to take your car to the best tuner. You will walk out as happy as larry.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...