Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a tid bit of advice. While first thought would be that the funnelling of all that surface area into a relatively small diameter hole will give you lots of airflow to the brakes/rotors. it probably wont. Most likley you will get a lots of turblulence and reduced airflow. (also increases sc)

Be interesting to see how it goesss. but i would think you are better with a flush panel, whereby helping the cd of the car...and having an opening essentialy the same diam as the duct you are going to run. Its normally the best compromise.

Roy,

All fair points mate and i do tend to agree with you. The reason for them being so big is that i am going to run another duct from each fibreglass panel to the other side of the rotor, the ones you see are for the caliper. I thought that 2 would be better than 1, just waiting on more ducting to arrive.

The inlet you see is 75mm so not small but not huge either. I also do test how much air i get through these with my big f#$& off fan that we use to cool the car down after each run as the pit garages are air conditioned it helps cooling everything down under the car, pic below

The reason is that we do run in temps over 40, yesterday was 46 while i was doing this mod near killed me.

post-28646-1178418132.jpg

was a problem point and still not where i would like it.

Last time out i ran with the alloy radiator, standard fan, no shroud and a N1 water pump, ambient was 40 degree and i was a little hot with both the after market temp gauge in the engine out let and the Power FC both showing 96 max. Still a bit hotter than i would like but its really too hot to run these cars at that temp, intake temps and knock are the pits mate.

need to update my other thread on this topic too

Yer thanks but i still have top put put the second inlet in the duct and it was easier to do with the front bar back on the car. not to mention quite a bit of filler to put in and sanding to do as you can see

Edited by tacker

nearly finished still have to run two more ducts back to the fronts but made a real difference to the rotor temps and brake pads. No more white edges on the pads any more. and then some better rear ones and thats it

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my act together last night and finished the running of the brake ducts to the font brakes last night.

Also as an after though i put in some CAI which i hope will work, i guess it got to help.

post-28646-1180318959_thumb.jpg

post-28646-1180319008_thumb.jpg

post-28646-1180319079_thumb.jpg

Interesting setup.. I'd be interested in whether channeling the air into such a small defined space is any better than the general flow effect over the wider area.. e.g. just removing the splash guards and allowing the air to pass through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...