Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OH, YOU HAVE BYPASSED THE FUEL PUMP CONTROLER HAVENT YOU? (if in dought just earth the earth of the pump and it will get full voltage all the time. my 32 had a simalar problem. turns out it was the controler not the pump lol.

so just eath the negative pump wire and see how you go. and definatly get the shop to put a fuel pressure guage on it to see if its doing what i think its doing.

t04gtr, like you, I don't like the boschs for the same reasons. People are always like buy the bosch, buy the bosch. There is absolutely no advantage buying a bosch over others (except a slight price difference, whcih is diminished when you have to buy 2 040s in 2 months)

unlike others who have found that they dimish when they get hot, we've replaced a few that have actually broken.

Edited by MANWHORE

I also replaced the stock pump with the bosch in tank 040 which I bought from Speed Tech in Mitcham.

When I bought it they removed the one way valve which they said was not needed.

Every Fuel pressure gauge I have put on there (4) has beaten itself to death in a short time with excessive fluctuation.

I put the one way valve back in the line hoping to stabilise the reading but it has not helped.

I also have a Malpassi silver top on there as well.

Not sure which way to go from here.....

OH, YOU HAVE BYPASSED THE FUEL PUMP CONTROLER HAVENT YOU? (if in dought just earth the earth of the pump and it will get full voltage all the time. my 32 had a simalar problem. turns out it was the controler not the pump lol.

so just eath the negative pump wire and see how you go. and definatly get the shop to put a fuel pressure guage on it to see if its doing what i think its doing.

no idea, the problem is gone, not sure what was happening there. still grinds n shit, i just hope its not struggling and thats what the stuttering is here and there. time for a tune.

I also replaced the stock pump with the bosch in tank 040 which I bought from Speed Tech in Mitcham.

When I bought it they removed the one way valve which they said was not needed.

Every Fuel pressure gauge I have put on there (4) has beaten itself to death in a short time with excessive fluctuation.

I put the one way valve back in the line hoping to stabilise the reading but it has not helped.

I also have a Malpassi silver top on there as well.

Mappassi's are well known to pulsate the pressure a little.. or a lot :domokun: >> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...998&hl=SARD

Bosch pumps do get groany when the fuel heats up. When mine wasn't receiving full volts it was so bad the floor pan would vibrate and could be heard/felt over the radio.

Rofl - nice. Hey are you using the 040 or 044. As with TO4GTR's comment below.....

the o44 is a gem. no dramas regardless of mounting style

Are yall saying its just the 040 that gets noisy when hot? As I thought both models were quiet similar bar, mesh and one way valve?

I thought the noise was a direct result of cavitation when the fuel gets hot. I figured the bubbles found it easier to make their way to the intake from the return, or maybe just the extreme vacuum and turbulence over the rough threaded fitting caused it.

If the 044 doesn’t get as noisy as the 040, read: doesn’t cavitate as much, there must be a reason. Are more people fitting the stock sock to 044’s?

*ponders*

I had an 040 that failed on me. It just got really noisy sometimes then it became all the time followed by fuel cut. I promptly changed it with a Denso pump (also made by Bosch). The reason I was given for the failure was that I had a lot of crap in the bottom of the tank. I got the tank flushed and have not had a problem since. The Denso is also a lot quieter.

I have also heard that the filter in the 040 is not very good at filtering out rubbish compared with the sock design of most other pumps. From my experience it is well worth spending extra on a proper Nismo, Tomei or Denso pump and save yourself the potential hassles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...