Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Help


cam32
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey guys i am not too familar with skylines yet, just bought an r32 but i would like some help. My idle is crappy, like in the mornings it hates starting and wen it does start it stays at very low revs and u have to keep ur foot on the gas for a little bit for it to stay running then it will go no worries wen it fires up properly. Someone suggested re-setting the idle motor. I know theres a process u have to go through to do that? would anyone be able to help with that? any help would be appreciated.

Cameron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is common in r32's and skylines in general, if your not too engine savvy just take it to a mechanic and raise the idle, if the idle like 500rpm or below they splutter and jump around all over the place. Mine never used to be good but i got it raised to 700rpm and its much better. Another common reason they can idle like shit is the aac valve being dirty etc. If it is removed and thoroughly cleaned/greased etc and is like new it always helps the idle.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah it seems to be a common thing, shouldn't the idle be up wen its cold anyway coz mine isn't?? and i have been told its bad for the car if u try and start it with accelerator, its telling the ecu to put fuel in wen its not actually going, so they said u should not touch accelerator wen starting ecu cars....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah it seems to be a common thing, shouldn't the idle be up wen its cold anyway coz mine isn't?? and i have been told its bad for the car if u try and start it with accelerator, its telling the ecu to put fuel in wen its not actually going, so they said u should not touch accelerator wen starting ecu cars....
The word is WHEN FFS!

Now, back to your problem - check the Cold Start Air Valve, which is the torpedo sort of thing just underneath the throttle body. It is possibly jammed either open or shut (can't recall it's position at cold start).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

who cares how u spell it.....u know wat i mean. Its not a spelling compition and yes i reckon i will check that valave out.....thanks for the help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
    • They should do. I have S14 (or something S chassis, anyway) driveshafts in my R32 (because my diff flanges have 3x2). They're the right length. When you go looking for R32/3/4 driveshafts (for turbos), they're all the same thing, so are the same length. So there really shouldn't be any reason why those cheapies from JJ won't also fit an R34. R32/3 NA should also be the same thing. The (3x the price) D-Max ones are uni-fit. They have 5x1 and 3x2 bolt holes and say they cover all the cars. So that would also suggest that they are all the same except for the flanges. And in that case, the flange goes both ways. I'd be buying the D-Max ones if I ever have to replace a shaft. Because that will open up diff options without needing to juggle shafts also. Juggling shafts is gay.
    • Yeah with the adaptors they do look like the photo above - just the fitment within the plenum itself and then further with the rail to the intake is questionable - we shall see tomorrow hopefully once I get some replies from Aeroflow, maybe those bosses are the missing piece....
    • Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this  (Not my photos, just Google)
    • Thanks for the replies guys, it's really appreciated.  It seems the kit was supposed to come with those injector bosses but hasn't. Unsure if they'll help as even with the adaptors to make them a 3/4 height injector they still sit too far out so mount the fuel rail?
×
×
  • Create New...