Stagea Fuel Economy

[Dunc]

Here are the official numbers...

9 km/l (11.1 l/100km)for 2.5t AWD vs 10 km/l (duhh 10 l/100km) for 2.5 Di AWD.

here is the full list.

I think I need a tune up My foot isnt heavy, although my trips are short.. first fuel up was 18L/100km, 2nd was 17.5L/100km =/

[Stooge007]

ive been getting normally just under 500k's a tank, the other day though when i had to fill up id gotten 580....

what mods?

and what mix of driving (hwy/city)?

Edited February 25, 2010 by Stooge007

[DaveB]

ive been getting normally just under 500k's a tank, the other day though when i had to fill up id gotten 580....

That's *INSANE*! So a manual stag' is good for over 200km more per tank??! Damn!

[CL11QE]

got pod, fmic, boosted slightly more then stock, dump off the turbo, gutted cat and hks exhaust, think thats about it.

normally when the orange light comes on its just b4 the 500k mark, but ive pushed it to 515ish, but the other day

i was at around 540 and the light hadnt even come on yet.

i run bp ultimate and my driving is really just to and from work, traveling around 70-80km for most of the way,

about a 25k or so journy each way....also when i filled up after that it put in 58lts...

[kidafa]

yes manuals will get better klicks to a tank of 98 perhaps its a way to look at it and think the conversion will pay itself off

[Stooge007]

hwy driving or even 70-80kms an hour with no stops should easily produce ~ 11L/100kms

i reckon pure hwy i could get close to 600kms out of my RS Four S

[pipster11]

hwy driving or even 70-80kms an hour with no stops should easily produce ~ 11L/100kms

i reckon pure hwy i could get close to 600kms out of my RS Four S

it does, just took my stag from qld to tas, averaging between 10.5 and 12 l/100km (hills and shit in the way)

we saw 545 with the needle just below the 1/4 mark i think

[chad bob]

Did a 7.5 hour haul down the line, boot full of crap, lotsa hills, lotsa passing, lotsa dicing with Holdens through the corners (Stag eats Commobores for breakfast on twisties).

Anyway on the way down I left the gearbox in normal mode, ended up getting an average consumption of 10.2L/100km.

On the way back I had it in 'Power' mode the whole time, consumption was 9.1L/100Km

It turns out that cruising in power mode might be more efficient, maybe it's because the engine doesn't labour at low revs, maybe it's because it changes down faster when you apply more gas and comes out of lockup faster.

Now I leave it in Power mode all the time.

[pixel8r]

Did a 7.5 hour haul down the line, boot full of crap, lotsa hills, lotsa passing, lotsa dicing with Holdens through the corners (Stag eats Commobores for breakfast on twisties).

Anyway on the way down I left the gearbox in normal mode, ended up getting an average consumption of 10.2L/100km.

On the way back I had it in 'Power' mode the whole time, consumption was 9.1L/100Km

It turns out that cruising in power mode might be more efficient, maybe it's because the engine doesn't labour at low revs, maybe it's because it changes down faster when you apply more gas and comes out of lockup faster.

Now I leave it in Power mode all the time.

Your M35 has power mode? Must be a 300/RX thing?

[Hanso]

I got 257km to half a tank today between West Wyalong to Dubbo. I'm running approx 10-11 psi with a HKS pod filter, everything else is stock.

Best I ever got was when my Stag was totally stock, I got 565km out of 1 tank, the needle was just above empty when I pulled into the Shell at Bundall.

[Ozzyla]

Hi All

I have a 1996 R33 GTST manuel, apart from a stainless 3" exhaust its stock.

I can get around 600km out of a tank hiway.

I also have a 1999 Stagea RS4 Auto, apart from a stainless 3" exhaust its STD too.

Its lucking to get 450km out of a tank hiway.

Now I understand the waight, 4wd and the aero factor, but 450km (if driven MELLOW) v 600km + ?

I dont get it.... Has anyone done any testing on the dyno of the Stagea to see how they are mapped?

Im a mechanic and have 16+ years dyno experience, I stopped that line of work a few years back (sick of fumes and noise)

I got the Stagea after i left my job so i havent run it or another up myself.

Any input is welcome..

Oz

[d1_drifter]

got pod, fmic, boosted slightly more then stock, dump off the turbo, gutted cat and hks exhaust, think thats about it.

normally when the orange light comes on its just b4 the 500k mark, but ive pushed it to 515ish, but the other day

i was at around 540 and the light hadnt even come on yet.

i run bp ultimate and my driving is really just to and from work, traveling around 70-80km for most of the way,

about a 25k or so journy each way....also when i filled up after that it put in 58lts...

Ohh man, how I wish for that sort of economy

350-400kms is the best I can get outta mine. Even stock, pushing 450kms was a hard task!

[Duncan]

ahh me too I've never got more than 420...normal is about 350. I suspect the rb30 and high mount turbo won't reduce it...

[pistol-pete]

yeah im lucky to see 400kms and mines stock apart from 3" turbo back exhaust

[pixel8r]

Hi All

I have a 1996 R33 GTST manuel, apart from a stainless 3" exhaust its stock.

I can get around 600km out of a tank hiway.

I also have a 1999 Stagea RS4 Auto, apart from a stainless 3" exhaust its STD too.

Its lucking to get 450km out of a tank hiway.

Now I understand the waight, 4wd and the aero factor, but 450km (if driven MELLOW) v 600km + ?

The stagea you have is based off the R34 engine and turbo. Technically this means it should be more efficient, but obviously not in your case. The exhaust without any tuning will not help your fuel economy. You'll get more power (and the exhaust means you're running more boost - probably around 11psi) but it'll just run really rich on the factory tune. Get some kind of piggyback ecu in there and a proper tune and you'll see a huge increase in both power and fuel economy. In my case it went from ~13L/100km to 11.5L/100km just driving to work and back. Admittedly it didn't help the hwy economy much but I was getting 10.5L/100km consistently which should get around 600km to a tank (roughly 60L at the empty line - tank itself is 68L)

There are a lot of people on here getting >400 (some > 450) kms to a tank in the city. I suggest you do take it to a dyno and get the AFR's checked out...and check for any error codes from your ecu - might have a faulty sensor somewhere. Other things to try is clean the AFM - remove it from the car, run some contact cleaner or metho over the metal wires that hang down inside the pipe (but dont touch them with your fingers), let it dry, then put it back in.

to anyone else out there not used to the way Nissan ecu's respond on turbo cars - if you get a free-flowing exhaust, you MUST get some sort of aftermarket tuning - like a piggyback ecu (eg. apexi safc or greddy emanage).

So many people think an exhaust will make their car run leaner. not true (well, not for these cars anyway). The exhaust affects boost pressure in that your boost limit increases - and obviously the amount of airflow increases too. The ecu reads the amount of air using the AFM and then adds the appropriate amount of fuel - according to its pre-programmed fuel maps. Due to the amount of airflow you're actually getting with a 3" exhaust, this causes the potential to run dangerously lean so the ecu will compensate by adding ridiculous amounts of fuel, and its not uncommon to see AFR's below 10:1 just from adding a 3" exhaust. somewhere around 9.5:1 the ecu will panic and go into R&R (rich and retard) mode to protect your engine. It feels like a sudden loss in power and you'll get it when under hard acceleration. In extreme cases, it will cut fuel and it'll almost send you through the windscreen.

Short answer: If you get an exhaust, or even if you just add more boost, get it tuned. You'll never get the best from the exhaust if you dont...and it'll cost you crazy amounts in fuel.

[pipster11]

The stagea you have is based off the R34 engine and turbo. Technically this means it should be more efficient, but obviously not in your case. The exhaust without any tuning will not help your fuel economy. You'll get more power (and the exhaust means you're running more boost - probably around 11psi) but it'll just run really rich on the factory tune. Get some kind of piggyback ecu in there and a proper tune and you'll see a huge increase in both power and fuel economy. In my case it went from ~13L/100km to 11.5L/100km just driving to work and back. Admittedly it didn't help the hwy economy much but I was getting 10.5L/100km consistently which should get around 600km to a tank (roughly 60L at the empty line - tank itself is 68L)

There are a lot of people on here getting >400 (some > 450) kms to a tank in the city. I suggest you do take it to a dyno and get the AFR's checked out...and check for any error codes from your ecu - might have a faulty sensor somewhere. Other things to try is clean the AFM - remove it from the car, run some contact cleaner or metho over the metal wires that hang down inside the pipe (but dont touch them with your fingers), let it dry, then put it back in.

to anyone else out there not used to the way Nissan ecu's respond on turbo cars - if you get a free-flowing exhaust, you MUST get some sort of aftermarket tuning - like a piggyback ecu (eg. apexi safc or greddy emanage).

So many people think an exhaust will make their car run leaner. not true (well, not for these cars anyway). The exhaust affects boost pressure in that your boost limit increases - and obviously the amount of airflow increases too. The ecu reads the amount of air using the AFM and then adds the appropriate amount of fuel - according to its pre-programmed fuel maps. Due to the amount of airflow you're actually getting with a 3" exhaust, this causes the potential to run dangerously lean so the ecu will compensate by adding ridiculous amounts of fuel, and its not uncommon to see AFR's below 10:1 just from adding a 3" exhaust. somewhere around 9.5:1 the ecu will panic and go into R&R (rich and retard) mode to protect your engine. It feels like a sudden loss in power and you'll get it when under hard acceleration. In extreme cases, it will cut fuel and it'll almost send you through the windscreen.

Short answer: If you get an exhaust, or even if you just add more boost, get it tuned. You'll never get the best from the exhaust if you dont...and it'll cost you crazy amounts in fuel.

this

my car feels just as quick on 7psi than on 10, should prob put it back and see what the economy gets like

living in tasmania definitely throws the economy out the window, barely a straight road about

not that i'm complaining

[jko_one]

i've got a rs4 s1 with a turbo back 3" and a k&n panel

I have just recently started to get 500km plus to a tank (city)

I used to only get around 450-470km (if i was lucky)

just started happening for no apparent reason

hmmmmmmm

[sammy46]

Cooler weather?

[jko_one]

hmmm

didd'nt think of that

mabye

it does'nt seem too be affecting the power and it still runs fine so i'm not really worried

I just found it surprising is all

[Ozzyla]

Cooler weather?

Cooler weather is good for performance, but hot is good for fuel eco. (as a rule, not talking AC etc into account) Hotter intake temps allow for leaner mix..

Oz

Edited March 1, 2010 by Ozzyla