Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Fuel Economy

RUS

By RUS,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
Pipster11 thanks for the comments.

I have read all the comments on fuel economy in this and other threads, "helpfull info - thanks everyone" (O2 sensor change duly noted).

The 570kms that I got, all be it highway run, seems to be quite good when compared - so I am more than happy with it. Had a bit of weight (4 x 19x8.5 with tyres) in the back aswell.

It's daily route will be 85% highway 15% town - hoping for at least 500ks a tank normal driving.

Cheers.

You should be able to achieve that, i think i got about 700kms from a tank on the drive from the Gold Coast to Tas at the beginning of the year, about to do the reverse, but with cruise control this time :P so i'll hopefully be able to post the differences from 98 and 95 ron fuel too

oh, and if you want a gadget that will keep track of your fuel economy and tell you what all your sensors are reading at the same time

www.ecutalk.com

great gadget and will let you hook your laptop up to your car too (you can do diagnostics and logging etc)

  • Replies 747
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Brycey
Brycey

holy crap joe! mine would be lucky to get 300

RSFOURDayz
RSFOURDayz

I get 4-450 every tank depending on how much of a thrashing it's been getting.

wht510
wht510

Only as good as your right foot...  

Posted Images

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
My Rs260 is only getting around 300-350 a tank standard. I can understand as it was on the dyno and only running 4psi boost and 110kws. I think its over fuelling really bad. Any one able to help?

new coil packs and o2 sensors should fix it up

also consider resoldering your afms too

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...-s-t113284.html

also check for loose hose clamps and split vac lines

BoostedBarge Rising Star

BoostedBarge

Posted
Posted
My Rs260 is only getting around 300-350 a tank standard. I can understand as it was on the dyno and only running 4psi boost and 110kws. I think its over fuelling really bad. Any one able to help?

Probably not the right thread to ask. Obviously something is wrong there. My 260RS get 400-450km out of a tank and is running 13psi. What ECU are you running? If it's standard do a fault code check and see what it comes up with. Go from there. Might be a boost leak somewhere, too.

Verms Mentor

Verms

Posted
Posted

I've check the computer and there is no fault codes. I took it into the shop and they couldnt find anything wrong. Its running rich and you can tell.

They said it could do with a tune but I can see how the standard computer and be tuned?

I'm looking at getting new o2 sensors, coil packs, I've got a boost controller to up the boost from 4psi to around 10-12 and a power fc to tune it all!

Will that help do you think?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted
Just got 785kms from Sydney to Byron the other day.. Filled up at twin caltex heading north got to Byron fri night and then some on sat morning!! Was happy with that! Definately better then my around Sydney economy..

Very nice on the ecomony front. Do you have cruise control?

You picked a great weekend to come up to Byron. Saturday & Sunday were the only fine days we've had for ages.

BoostedBarge Rising Star

BoostedBarge

Posted
Posted
I've check the computer and there is no fault codes. I took it into the shop and they couldnt find anything wrong. Its running rich and you can tell.

They said it could do with a tune but I can see how the standard computer and be tuned?

I'm looking at getting new o2 sensors, coil packs, I've got a boost controller to up the boost from 4psi to around 10-12 and a power fc to tune it all!

Will that help do you think?

If you can get hold of Consult, it may help with the problem. 4psi really doesn't sound right for stock boost, so fix that problem before fitting a boost controller. Might be a boost leak or blocked cat. It should run about 6psi on actuator boost and 10psi with stock boost solenoid (I think). So get that sorted and then do the rest. Otherwise you're masking some other problem. O2 sensor is only used for closed loop (cruising on highway, etc.), so it will help with fuel economy, but won't help make more power. Coil packs are wise to upgrade, before they give you grief, but I wouldn't really expect any noticeable power increase from them if the car is already running fine on all 6 cylinders.

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted (edited)
68L tank in S1 & S2? Is that definite? I'm pretty sure I have got a little over 70L into my S2 before.

sounds like it could've been a dodgy pump reading.

I'm certain its 68L.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bu...n-C-t92065.html

Edited by pixel8r
matty_M35 Collaborator

matty_M35

Posted
Posted
Very nice on the ecomony front. Do you have cruise control?

You picked a great weekend to come up to Byron. Saturday & Sunday were the only fine days we've had for ages.

no cruise control I was being very gracious on the pedal.. I have to say you can drive a better economy without cruise I used to do it in our maxima..

Yeah was a good weekend.. Was the wifes birthday the inlaws and her friends are up there..

Didn't quite get the same Economy on return trip was trying to race the clock to catch the F1 race..

Verms Mentor

Verms

Posted
Posted
If you can get hold of Consult, it may help with the problem. 4psi really doesn't sound right for stock boost, so fix that problem before fitting a boost controller. Might be a boost leak or blocked cat. It should run about 6psi on actuator boost and 10psi with stock boost solenoid (I think). So get that sorted and then do the rest. Otherwise you're masking some other problem. O2 sensor is only used for closed loop (cruising on highway, etc.), so it will help with fuel economy, but won't help make more power. Coil packs are wise to upgrade, before they give you grief, but I wouldn't really expect any noticeable power increase from them if the car is already running fine on all 6 cylinders.

I've check the airflow meter connections and they still look perfect. Did fix up some dodgy looking connections over the weekend.

I've wired in the boost controller and see to help but I havnt set it very high.

Going to get the power fc in this week and tunes so see how we go there!!!!!!!!!!!

  • 1 month later...
RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted

only had the beast (bog stock '99 RS4-S with 235/40R18's @41psi and 98 RON) for 4 weeks now but my worst tank was 420kms (first tank we used, on bald 235/45R17's at 32psi)

i just drove to sydney and did 120kms smashing round town, then drove canberra to sydney about 115/120kmh in 5th gear with A/C on and off, no cruise and just stomping it abit for hills and overtakes and then got to sydney city and then on the way home i had a 1/4 tank left got a chunk down the freeway and the light flashed twice and then i filled up showing 560kms on the tripmeter and coulda gone more but didnt wana risk the next servo stop.

floody Experienced

floody

Posted
Posted (edited)

Getting about 500kms to a tank around town, 600+ on the highway (easily do 650 on flatter runs). S1 RS4, HKS actuator(seems to run 10-12psi), Dayz/Nismo factory option 2.5" system, pod.

Has progressively improved as we've owned and serviced it.

-FOB with shagged coilpacks, knackered O2 sensor would have done at best 350km or so to a tank, on the highway (!).

-Cleaned filthy AFM and a few connectors, new NTK O2 sensor, now had best of about 450km regularly.

-.8 gapped NGK coppers and a set of Splitfires got it back to about 500km.

-Fixed some perished hoses (small vac/boost leaks), fixed the knackered cat convertor and its blockages downstream (most likely product of rich mixtures early on), new timing belt and getting 600+ highway kms.

It is my belief the horror stories about Stagea fuel economy come from neglected FOB cars. O2, clean AFM,all pipes and hoses in good condition, cat flowing properly and a fresh timing belt and accurately set base timing all make a big difference.

If yours hasn't had an O2 since import IMO its a matter of priority. Can be changed by a semi competent home mechanic and is inexpensive.

Edited by floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Result of another R35GTR build. Similar specs as above except this is running our bigger size SS-2 profile option. Made similar power except this car runs on Pump 98 fuel. Build specs are: Nissan R35 GTR 2015 model stock engine and box. ETS street intercooler boost logi intercooler piping with tial bov, boost logi turbo inlet pipe ID 1050 injector DW 300C fuel pump Decatted oem down pipe and y pipe& HKS exaust 3inch intake pipe Upgraded actautors HyperGear SS-2 high flow option Final result is 639whp / 477wkws hubs, Ron 93 / P98 fuel at 20psi.  
    • Therry
      Left & Right Window Regulators for 2013 Skyline V36 Coupe

      By Therry · Posted

      Duncan:- it affect both sides.  Driver side is worse.
    • Duncan
      Left & Right Window Regulators for 2013 Skyline V36 Coupe

      By Duncan · Posted

      That seems like a very special issue!  Does it affect both sides? Either way, I would disconnect the driver's side switch and see if it still happens, noting that might require removal of the whole door card which is a bit of a pain (it does on V37 and HY51)  
    • Therry
      Left & Right Window Regulators for 2013 Skyline V36 Coupe

      By Therry · Posted

      MBS206:- The windows start to slowly open themselves. GTSBoy:- Battery is new since Dec. 
    • Vee37
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Vee37 · Posted

      I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
×
×
  • Create New...