Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

just a quick question to those who have installed these units.

As the manual is in japanese i am not sure but i see diagrams of the boost control soliniod in series with the standard boost solinoid which does not seem right. Had advise to remove the standard and replace with the Apexi which seems simple enough. Yet to try it out but will do thursday i hope.

One more point is it possible to change the reading on the commander from mmhg to bar as a readout.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167896-power-fc-boost-controler/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, I've just installed one last week.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...3&hl=birnie

The pictures aren't showing but i can repost em later when i get home for you.

They show the wiring too which isn't too hard.

Yeah, +ve pressure in bar

-ve in mmhg

That's the same as my mechanical Blitz boost gauge.

Pressure might not have the same physical characteristics in negative pressure and therefor not messured in 'bar' as i believe even the PSI gauges have hhmg as -ve pressure, or vacuum (could be wrong, but once you've got complete vacuum ie space, you can't suck anymore out so it must be approaching a limit with the more vacuum reading you get, but pressure can keep increasing???)

Birnie

The hose with the restrictor???

There is a clear filter if that's what you mean.

I was gong to put that on the sensor hose but it doesn't fit....didn't use it at all.

Anyway....some pics here : http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Skyline/

LOL i was talking about the hose from the standard boost controler with the restrictor in it ( has yellow band around it ) does that go to the waste gates or is it from the manifold..

Thanks for the pics mate they are a great help.

regards

Edited by tacker

I ditched the old tube and used what came with the unit.

So no restrictor at all.

Also, pressure feed from the intercooler piping went into the 'NO' hole on the new solenoid, and continued out the 'COM' hole which went to the wastgate.

  • 8 months later...

this bloody thing is still not working went to lift boost to 1.2 bar to find it has just been using the actuator spring.

Could the harness from the ecu to the boost control solinoid be damaged, guess i will need to check. Tried to run at .8 bar only to have it go into boost cut no matter what value i entered in the duty cycle.

GRRRRRRR

if you find its going into boost cut no matter what, ie: its spiking way over target boost then check the vac lines etc

if they are backwards it might not control boost at all and just never open, hence unlimited boost, hence it spiking way past target regardless of duty

or the wiring is wrong., its simply ground and positive power, if they are wrong the solenoid wont work

Hi Paul,

Ok what i have done is run a whole new line from the COM port on the solinoid valve over the engine into a tee piece, then to both to both waste gate actuators. I then plugged the old exsisting vac lines to the actuators with a bolt and clamp.

I have then used compressed air to determine which of the exsisting vac lines connected to the original factory boost controller are connected to where, ie before the turbos or after. I then connected the vac line plumbed in after the turbos to the NO port of the solinoid valve, And again plugged the other exsisting line now not used.

The wiring, i used the exsisting ( original nissan ) boost controller harness, and then plugged the new cable from the Apexi solinoid valve into the exsisting plug that was connected to the original nissan boost controller, and therefore should be connected to Power FC through this original harness.

bugga need coffee now after typing so much :-)

There is no spiking as such it sits rock steady on 1.15 bar if i have the boost limit on the hand controller set to 1.2 bar, we proved this time after time on the dyno last weekend. If we removed the vac hose to waste gate actuators and left it open to free air then it would spike, but wouldnt move from 1.15 bar while connected to the COM port on the Apexi solinoid valve. Even if we connected either of the older exsisting lines from the factory boost controller on the NO port it made no difference, hence why i dont think the Apexi solinoid valve is getting a signal from the ECU, or the valve is not functioning when it gets a signal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...