Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

comes down to HKS 2530 and the Garrett 2860-5

while u pro's are still around, are the 2 HKS and Garrett "bolt-on" turbos without modification?

and where in Australia can i buy the Garretts from?

Snowman mentioned http://www.gcg.com.au , but they're offline so im not sure how much they are etc....

and thank y'all for the feedback/replies, very useful information (for me and im sure for others too)

Andy

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

they are both bolt on, but the HKS ones come with all the gaskets and new bolts etc. the garretts are just the turbos. and I have heard you will probably need to rotate the comp cover so it's on the right angle. the HKS ones come already set at the right angle.

I've run my GT-RS on both a standard capacity and now with a 2.8L crank.

As many have said (although not all), the set up on a 2.6L was really too laggy for my liking.

On a 2.8L, well that's a different matter altogether!

My vote is 25/30s for a 2.6L.

They are more than just re-badged.

There is slight differences in whe wheels used. Not a lot, but enough that they certainly are not rebadged.

Whilst Garrett makes the HKS turbos, thats where the similarity between HKS & Garrett turbos ends.

A little while ago this topic was discussed in great detail.....

All of the turbo's Made by Garrett came identical or a whisker short in the specs compared to the HKS ones.

The good thing is that HKS give you all the other goodies to go with the install...gaskets..washers...bolts...copper washers etc etc etc.......

HKS also have a special actuator...heavy duty that they have made especially for themselfs....but this is just to make a difference in the two product.

I believe the AWKW's compared to rwkw's is a strongly debated item in this Forum.

But I was told by many in over these last few years that awkw's x 1.2=rwkw's.

Cheers

so the 2530 is a re-badged 2860-5?

same make?

Fitted RB25 AFM's

Tomei Poncams

@ 4 Wheels

Max Power 274.7kw @ 6963 RPM (1.3 BAR)

Max Torque 924.8 Nm @ 4803 RPM

Max M.A.P. 230.4 kPa @ 4665 RPM

what is that equivalent to rwkw?

It is not just about how many.....what figures.....car doesn't have enough horses...etc..etc...it is not a dyno race..though some people think it is.

The car needs to feel right,handle well and not loose traction.....

I have a 0 to 100km an hour figure at 4.5seconds and the quarter mile at 11.8.

The car is driven everyday and I have chosen a safe tune with less boost(1.25 Bar) to make it last alittle longer.

Oh Beer Baron...sorry did not read your post...double posted all the goodies you get with the HKS kit.

Cheers...good luck with your venture

  • 10 months later...
they are both bolt on, but the HKS ones come with all the gaskets and new bolts etc. the garretts are just the turbos. and I have heard you will probably need to rotate the comp cover so it's on the right angle. the HKS ones come already set at the right angle.

hey there, i have just got garrett 2860-5 installed, r33gtr, as i replied in a forum a few days ago, the tomei dumppipes didnt fit up to turbos, custom piping, inlet to turbos (to fit air cleaner) and some intercooler piping all custom made. oil returns, water returns to turbos all modified, big money :laughing-smiley-014: will post some photos when car comes back........

hey there, i have just got garrett 2860-5 installed, r33gtr, as i replied in a forum a few days ago, the tomei dumppipes didnt fit up to turbos, custom piping, inlet to turbos (to fit air cleaner) and some intercooler piping all custom made. oil returns, water returns to turbos all modified, big money :laughing-smiley-014: will post some photos when car comes back........

Should have bought the correct turbos, the real -5 are direct replacement...done many times.

-5's and 2530's are different enough to make the 2530's perform far better infact on average the GT-SS perform better than the -5's.

-7's aren't the same as GT-SS either.

I had a quick look over some of the results (about 10 to 12 of each type except for the GT-SS , they seem to only just start to be flavour of the month) and did some totals of cars that are similar, standard capacity rb26's on pump fuel. I didn't include some of the hardcore 2530 setups like dirtgarage's to make it a little easy on the -5's.

The average for the 2530's is; 388rwkw

The average for the GT-SS is; 335.4 rwkw

The average power made by the -5's is; 313rwkw

Of the same data the best power of the -5's was 388rwkw

Best of the 2530's was ; 451rwkw (have an examples of a few a fair whack higher again but, left those out).

Best of the GT-SS was 364rwkw

going purely of budget un-opened/ non-built motors maybe with just some drop in cams it looks like this;

-5's average ; 298rwkw

2530's average ; 358rwkw

GT-SS average ; 332rwkw

-5's aren't bad but, then again they aren't HKS either.

HKS do enough to make the turbos work better than garrett's off the shelf. In some the case of the -5's it's a few mm or fractions on the inducer /exeducer and trim, basically a different wheel made just for them. They also have their own housings at least on the compressor side and sometimes as we know the exhaust housing too.

  • 1 year later...
I thought the GTSS is similiar to the N1s?

Anyway, i've got 2860-5 and 2860-7s for sale :)

i need a bolt on, and injectors and rail, for my 33 up to that stage now,

what way shuld i go and costing if some one knows????

have wolf v4 and all other bolt on u need, need fuel pump az well

thanks for any help

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...