Rb Sumps- Custom, Off Shelf, Back Yard Jobs

[Craved]

looking good Michael,

are you going to weld it bolted up to a block to stop any warping that may happen?

also - the welding, are you going to weld on the outside or the inside?

im way better at Corner joints than i am at T joints is why i ask (need more practice i think)

[r33_racer]

Yep, i will be using an old dummy block...probably the first rb30 we blew as the welding jig so it wont distort. My original plan was to just weld all round on the outside...however ive been thinking about it abit more and was considering welding both inside and out...will minimise any chances of holes forming.

Yeh corners are easier as there is normally a natural V which is probably more like an L which pools better and fills in alot nicer. Biggest thing i had trouble with T joints is not enough amps and trying to run before the molten pool had formed correctly on both surfaces. So the weld would want to stick more to one side rather then both evenly. Need to make sure the arc is wider rather then small and concentrated so it gets both faces....but practice will get you there.

Edited May 16, 2007 by r33_racer

[Craved]

Yep, i will be using an old dummy block...probably the first rb30 we blew as the welding jig so it wont distort. My original plan was to just weld all round on the outside...however ive been thinking about it abit more and was considering welding both inside and out...will minimise any chances of holes forming.

Yeh corners are easier as there is normally a natural V which is probably more like an L which pools better and fills in alot nicer. Biggest thing i had trouble with T joints is not enough amps and trying to run before the molten pool had formed correctly on both surfaces. So the weld would want to stick more to one side rather then both evenly. Need to make sure the arc is wider rather then small and concentrated so it gets both faces....but practice will get you there.

The Kemppi has the adjustment to allow you to control the spread of the arc when running AC so i'll play with that a little more .. i only run about 105 Amps on 2.5mm alloy sheet.

yeah makes sense with the natural L cup to allow the filler to melt in easier .. there is a fair bit of stuff in the welding thread under the fab section in regards to running V groves for T joints .

Welding from both sides would be ideal if there is enough space to run the bead next to the bolt holes... for looks sake i guess you would run the welds on the inside first so as not to destroy the outside look due to the 2nd pass.

[r33_racer]

yes i know...i also have a kemppi...and i know you have one so thats why i suggested that. They are a great tig. The ones at tafe are big, bulky and old and all the torches and leads weigh a tonne....after doing a week of tafe for advanced tig using their torches and leads(which were miller)...then going home and welding a fuel tank up using the kemppi it felt like as light as a feather....i love them.

[humz]

just browsing and found a few pics of the hi energy replacement, i personally dont like it at that price.

opinions, how much are your custom sump costing you guys, not much i assume

[humz]

oh and the price is like 900 exchange

[Craved]

just browsing and found a few pics of the hi energy replacement, i personally dont like it at that price.

opinions, how much are your custom sump costing you guys, not much i assume

i would guess at 300-350 just in material .. never mind the hours spent to cut bend weld and design it

[r33_racer]

hmmm material...depends where you get it from.....some people get free scrap that could do the trick

[STATUS]

okay while my 25-30 is being rebuild i thought it would be a good idea to put in a custom sump, with baffles, and a larger volume.

i can send it into adelaide and they modify it with a hi-energy sump but its 700bux. i wanted to make my own.

anyone have detailed pics of what theirs looks like or any advice in general would be greatly appreciated

thanx

Not sure why you would send it to adelaide as high energy is located in Vic http://www.etperformance.com.au/ and all work is done at that address..

The nicest modded/fabricated GTR sump i have seen is from access performance in Vic, i have seen these on quite a few monsters and it seems quite a few big name workshops also source them there.

Edited May 18, 2007 by URAS

[Gts-t]

Was down at the shop today and the guy that used to own the place 11 years or so ago was there making a one way doors and a windage tray for a lotus race motor he is building. Looked to do the job very well of keeping oil around the pick up. Best of all if u know what ur doing its not very time consuming or expensive to get excellent results.

Ill try and get some pics because when it is time to do my sump i think ill hit him up to do the same. Unless i feel like blowing 900 or whatever on the high energy.

[Craved]

haha Michael - some are that lucky .......

Yeah it wouldnt be very hard to make, but to make them correct is the tough part, and one of the reasons there is this thread

any ideas on where that one way door is on the high energy sump ?

should there be say 2 x one way doors blocking off the wing sections of the sump??

or would say a mesh type wall be almost as good as a trap door, so the oil will flow but not HEAPs compared to no door section .. or ..................... (insert ideas here)

[R31Nismoid]

Ye the high energy item that came off the car i spoke of earlier... very much below par

Stock modded RB26 sump would be around half that if you paid someone to do the lot even

[humz]

Not sure why you would send it to adelaide as high energy is located in Vic http://www.etperformance.com.au/ and all work is done at that address..

The nicest modded/fabricated GTR sump i have seen is from access performance in Vic, i have seen these on quite a few monsters and it seems quite a few big name workshops also source them there.

i should have added im from w.a. and when i went to enquire about a sump from a high enerygy distributer here they said 'yep you want one, drop off your sump to us, pay for postage to and from adelaide' and it would return same as the hi energy ones they had on display, so im guessing this work is also done somewhere in s.a.. dunno tho just what i was told

[RB26zcar]

From cubes DOHC guide: Grind off the RB20/25/26 fins towards the back of the sump, the rb30 crank and rods have a longer throw and will foul. The RB30 sump has no clearance issues in the R32/33 Skylines.

My car has the standard RB26 sump with a tomei sump baffle in it and no issues to date what so ever with oil pickup.

Have included some random pics I have on my computer of a custom sump for an RB, I like the design of this one....

Thank you mate for showing my sump. Its for a rear sump app. though. I'm using a external oil pick up off my Greaddy oil pump.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3113163

Edited May 20, 2007 by RB26zcar

[Craved]

Ash , any updates with getting pics for us mate?

[R31Nismoid]

Not yet, motor wont be dropped for another week and a bit yet as i dont drop the car off till next week at some stage

I'll try best i can

[Craved]

ok mate awesome

[drgnball34]

im sending my sump to exchange for the hi energy 8lt pro drag. Will i have any clearance issues?

[Dahtone Racing]

we can get some very decent sumps for about $460

[Kevin Johnson]

I remember reading this thread last year. I finally had time to complete working on an RB26DETT that had been sent to me last Summer. This info has been posted in another thread but this one is most appropriate.

With respect to the RB26DETT sump with the differential attached, I would suggest first, make sure the engine is sitting level in the bay with respect to the pavement. The rear of the pan that I examined had witness marks that indicated it was tilted rearward and oil was pooling there. This situation will encourage oil to be churned by the rotating assembly. Once the percentage air passes 30% cummulative rod bearing damage will result.

This engine was one of the JDM exports in still excellent running condition so I do not think the situation was an aberration.

The other thing that I suggest doing would be to remove the "corporate" hump in the rear of the pan that gives access to remove torque converter bolts. Obviously this mod is for people using manuals. Oil witness marks in the pan indicate a serious pressure and windage disturbance from this protrusion that extends the length of the engine. This compromise was forced onto the engine designers. Get rid of it.

The KA24 truck engine did not have this but the KA24E and later engines, including the SR20, QR25DE, etc. did. If you closely examine the windage/pumping engineering cues on the SR20 you can see what a nightmare this presented.

It is plain that Nissan went way beyond the norm with this design. It has three levels of windage trays. I should point out, though, that the hump makes sections of them inoperative. How many stock engines can you name that have a kick-out with three separate parallel chambers. Before you answer that, reflect carefully on why they did this. There was a reason.

If you plan on lopping off the tranny then I suggest making a dummy axle tube and welding it in place of the original.