Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is running nice now that it is finally on the road. But the exhaust noise that it makes are un-bare-able. How do you guys get along with a car that is louder then mine is beyond me, I got an headache after just 30 minute of driving...slowly...

MUST BE OLD AGE KICKING IN!!! eek.gif

Anyways, to "supress" the noise as my neightbors wouldn't like it much either, I have got myself an Apexi ATS (Active Tail Silencer). I didn't go for the butterfly valve one is because I want something that is automatic, and I heard that the electronic version of the butterfly valve can go wrong and not open when they are suppose to. So full boost + close butterfly valve = Turbo in the Bin...

Saying that, the ATS silencer does open up on high load, but I am not sure how much it restricts the flow still. Right now I am limiting boost to 1.3Bar because of the restriction worries. The same setting on the boost controller without the exhaust bung will give a 1.35Bar boost.

I just want someone a bit more technical to confirm me that it is safe to run high boost (aiming for 1.6bar) with that bung. If it isn't safe, then what should be the limit.

The exhaust is a 90mm exhaust with no center silencer, the ATS is a 115mm one. The turbo is an HKS TA45S Turbo so most of its power will be from 5K-8K. It also run a screamer pipe so it will ease the exhaust flow a bit when it is on full boost.

Thanks for the help. I am enjoying every minutes of it (finally!!!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167962-big-boost-with-exhaust-bung/
Share on other sites

Better off getting an inner muffler along the way, ditch the cannon and go a better dual muffler at the end of it or add a resonator along as well, much better options take your pick. Good luck with that

Cheers

A

mate, those exhaust thingies are shit. I have both an insertable bung that can go in the end. heavily robs power, and makes revs climb very slowly.

I also have an exhaust control valve - same as the bung. makes it a lot less powerful. revs climb about 1/4 the speed it used to. and the worst is, it's nto that much quieter.

The Apexi ATS made a difference for sure. You can talk with it in, you cannot think with it out.

When it is on boost, all valve open, and screamer pipe on full chat, its fine. It is when you are driving normal speed at 120km/h that it really kills you.

I'll get it on a dyno and see how it goes. The 115mm bung was able to flow the same horsepower on a 300hp BCNR33 GTR, so it isn't that restrictive... Dyno show no difference around 300bhp as confirm by the American magazine dyno

But it is a big difference when you are talking about double of that power. :rant:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...