Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone played with this on the 26? i have some nice phenolic gaskets to insulate the inlet plenum and will do a few runs on the dyno and the track and log the results for those who may be interested in this cheap power upgrade. I have always used them on my SR's but they required much more than just the gaskets as the throttle body and aac valve all needed the water passages bypassed aswell, The GTR doesnt.

products_gaskets.jpg

official blurb if you dont know what phenolic gaskets are; http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/product_gasket.htm

Edited by URAS
  • 2 weeks later...
given the air speed of WOT into the manifold, I don't think a hell of a lot of heat would transfer off the plenum to the injested air charge...

you would be suprised, hondas get fairly large gains in regards to total power percentages. Dsport did some testing a while back.

in GTR i wont know til sat till i put it on CREATDS dyno, i dont expect much but i expect it will be 90 dollars well spent in reducing inlet charge over a period of time.

you would be suprised, hondas get fairly large gains in regards to total power percentages. Dsport did some testing a while back.

in GTR i wont know til sat till i put it on CREATDS dyno, i dont expect much but i expect it will be 90 dollars well spent in reducing inlet charge over a period of time.

Although on your average honda, Bar the K-Series and F20C, the Intake manifold sits on the back of the motor, and has none, to sweet f**k all airflow around it. Its kinda getting all the heat of the engine bay thrown at it.

I put a HONDATA gasket on my ITR, and i believe the only difference it made was less available funds on my card, and a few cuts and scratches getting the bitch in there :thumbsup:

Although on your average honda, Bar the K-Series and F20C, the Intake manifold sits on the back of the motor, and has none, to sweet f**k all airflow around it. Its kinda getting all the heat of the engine bay thrown at it.

I put a HONDATA gasket on my ITR, and i believe the only difference it made was less available funds on my card, and a few cuts and scratches getting the bitch in there :)

did you re-route the other heat sources fron the inlet manifold.... like water etc... i have seen plenty of excellent honda data, but many do not understand the preocesses and only fit the gasket.

On the topic of phenolic spacers, when the 5.0 was new to the mustang, one of the popular mods was a phenolic spacer between the upper and lower halves of the intake manifold. I remember seeing test results showing a definate improvement.

James.

did you re-route the other heat sources fron the inlet manifold.... like water etc... i have seen plenty of excellent honda data, but many do not understand the preocesses and only fit the gasket.

That "mod" is already done on Integra Type R's from factory. The only one you need to re-route is the cold start line that warms up the throttle body. So thats more than likely why the ITR doesnt respond as well as other Hondas.

heres the latest dyno i will post up a table later comparing the two datalogs of inlet temp and timing.

with the new gaskets inlet temps were reduced by a substantial amount, to the point that the turbo outlet pipes would were so hot they would scald and the plenum was COOL to touch after 21 runs......... if you dont believe me check our the run number on the dyno sheet :P

The cooler charge allowed us to dial in another 3-5 degrees of peak timing throughout the peak torque and top end IGN map areas.

post-34927-1180350300_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
On the topic of phenolic spacers, when the 5.0 was new to the mustang, one of the popular mods was a phenolic spacer between the upper and lower halves of the intake manifold. I remember seeing test results showing a definate improvement.

James.

I believe in this case, the gains were mostly due to the "thick"gasket(up to 5cm thick) increasing plenum volume and reducing flow discrepencies between the cylinders, and or increasing runner length

  • 2 years later...

Any advice on actual fitting these gaskets assume they would need some gasket sealant etc.

Whst sorta torque values standard?

also as they are alot thicker than standard any issues with the stud length being too short??

any advice appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...