Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R33 GTS-T 4door ('94), and just recently when I start my car there is a noise coming from the dash or somewhere in that general area that sounds like a pulsing beat. It sounds as if something is trying to move or open and is getting stuck or held back by something. Kind of like the sound a pedestal fan makes when you try and stop it from oscillating. My friend, who dyno tunes ands works on alot of Skylines says its a common problem with them but he is not sure what it is.

Please help. If anyone knows what it is and how to fix it please let me know.

:thumbsup:

Off the top of my head it sounds like the aircon vents are trying to open when you turn the car on.. Some other people might have more ideas, it's kinda common in older R33's..

Yeah thought it might have been something to do with the AC. Cheers

R34 randomly does it .. It is the aircon as it does it more when the air con is on .. good fix is turning the cd player up over 10 or so :thumbsup:

If I can't fix the problem, cranking the music sounds like my only option!!

I think it's the motor trying to open the valves so that it can change where the hot/cold air is routed.. Only way to fix it is to pull the whole dash out and it's known to be alot of effort.. it's been in other threads..

Amusing what you find.. here is the site with photos on what it takes to remove it and get to it.. I believe it's the heater unit motor trying to open..

http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/

Links

I think it's the motor trying to open the valves so that it can change where the hot/cold air is routed.. Only way to fix it is to pull the whole dash out and it's known to be alot of effort.. it's been in other threads..

Amusing what you find.. here is the site with photos on what it takes to remove it and get to it.. I believe it's the heater unit motor trying to open..

http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/

Links

Well that certainly looks like a whole lot of fun to attemp!!! :happy: Think I'll get my friend with the expertise to give that a go for me. Thanks heaps for the info. :thumbsup:

  • 1 month later...

well this pulseing noise in dash for me has been narrowed down to this. on two seperate skylines the exact same noise and exact same climate control actualor (motor) has been the culprit.

if you follow this link (same as above)

http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/

and enlarge the picture with the foot in it you can see a little black box ontop of the big white plastic thing (the heather core assembly unit). this little black box held in place by what looks like 3 screws is actually only 2 - just to help you identify it in the picture. what it does is it controls the opening and closing of the vents from head to legs and if it is jamed bysomething will make that noise.

the interseting thing is that on both skylines (both series 1) neither were jammed, in fact if i unscrewed the unit itself and had it resting in the palm of my hand it would still make the noise. so that eliminates anything jamming the vents open.

then i pulled the unit apart to see if any gears inside were sliping or broken. what i found was that no gears were broken and or slipping in fact the unit is functioning like it should. also the little arm that comes off the unit which slots into the heater core assembly will only move 90 degrees. so when the little motor inside turns the gears and inturn moves the arm, the actuall arm travel is limited by the case design not by the motor. which means that the little motor inside wants to keep turning like 2 full rotations but the plastic arm has a stopper built into the case that makes it stop at a the open or closed positions only. so this led me to look at what was controlling the little motor iside the case.

inside there is only a little motor and a resistor. so the circuitry controlling the motor must be inline somewhere. sure enough i stripped back the entire wiring loom to follow the 2 wires all the way back to the climate control unit and they go directly to it with no relays or anything else inbetween.

So logically it must be the climate controll unit that is the problem. Naturally i tried another then another a total of 4 different climate controll units and none stopped that little motor from turning to far.

so i went to some wild card ideas, took out anything that had been installed (not factory) i took out the stereo, the boos controller, then the turbo timer. still the same. I then made sure that all the earths were screwed in and tight. still no change. I then went on to change all relays, fuses and odd bits and pieces, all otrher modules associated with the heating and cooling, even the flasher can (i know the flasher can has nothing to do with this problem) still that noise was present.

i then noticed that when the mode was set to legs only and the car was turned off and then on again it made the noise.

then i noticed that even if i set the node to legs only then turned the climate control unit off then the car off and on again it still made the same noise. which indicated that the little unit was getting a stray signal or current through the climate control unit imediatly at start up.

so now i'm calling in my auto elec friend to help i'll write back when i find the problem.

  • 5 months later...

hey feller's, yeah my skyline does it aswell lol it only goes for a few seconds and then just stops? its pretty annoying, but i just agree with DECIM8, i just crank the muzik lol but would like to get it fixed :thumbsup: any help appreciated.

cheers fellers

  • 1 year later...
well this pulseing noise in dash for me has been narrowed down to this. on two seperate skylines the exact same noise and exact same climate control actualor (motor) has been the culprit.

if you follow this link (same as above)

http://gtr.ferni.net/misc/dash_removal/

and enlarge the picture with the foot in it you can see a little black box ontop of the big white plastic thing (the heather core assembly unit). this little black box held in place by what looks like 3 screws is actually only 2 - just to help you identify it in the picture. what it does is it controls the opening and closing of the vents from head to legs and if it is jamed bysomething will make that noise.

the interseting thing is that on both skylines (both series 1) neither were jammed, in fact if i unscrewed the unit itself and had it resting in the palm of my hand it would still make the noise. so that eliminates anything jamming the vents open.

then i pulled the unit apart to see if any gears inside were sliping or broken. what i found was that no gears were broken and or slipping in fact the unit is functioning like it should. also the little arm that comes off the unit which slots into the heater core assembly will only move 90 degrees. so when the little motor inside turns the gears and inturn moves the arm, the actuall arm travel is limited by the case design not by the motor. which means that the little motor inside wants to keep turning like 2 full rotations but the plastic arm has a stopper built into the case that makes it stop at a the open or closed positions only. so this led me to look at what was controlling the little motor iside the case.

inside there is only a little motor and a resistor. so the circuitry controlling the motor must be inline somewhere. sure enough i stripped back the entire wiring loom to follow the 2 wires all the way back to the climate control unit and they go directly to it with no relays or anything else inbetween.

So logically it must be the climate controll unit that is the problem. Naturally i tried another then another a total of 4 different climate controll units and none stopped that little motor from turning to far.

so i went to some wild card ideas, took out anything that had been installed (not factory) i took out the stereo, the boos controller, then the turbo timer. still the same. I then made sure that all the earths were screwed in and tight. still no change. I then went on to change all relays, fuses and odd bits and pieces, all otrher modules associated with the heating and cooling, even the flasher can (i know the flasher can has nothing to do with this problem) still that noise was present.

i then noticed that when the mode was set to legs only and the car was turned off and then on again it made the noise.

then i noticed that even if i set the node to legs only then turned the climate control unit off then the car off and on again it still made the same noise. which indicated that the little unit was getting a stray signal or current through the climate control unit imediatly at start up.

so now i'm calling in my auto elec friend to help i'll write back when i find the problem.

________________________________________________________________________________

_____________________

well i apologise for the delay but, it's better late than never.

What actually happens is the climate control unit actuates the motor.

when this happens the climate control unit is set to actuate the motor for a longer time period than it actually needs.

Sounds strange but i put it down to 2 things.

1. It's a programing fault in the climate control unit from factory

2. It's designed that way so as to keep the vent door open while another operation is completed or a combination of both

In either event, what happens is the motor reaches it's maximum travel and stay's jammed there while the motor keeps supplying force, After time, months years etc, the motors and it's gears inside eventually succumb to slippage and hence the click noise is the gears slipping.

this click noise stops when power is cut off to the motor from the climate control box.

Now it just depends on how your individual box copes with the strain, some will shit them solves early, some are louder than others and some are just a little tougher than others.

you have 2 options. (Both require a pulling out of the dash)

1. roam around from wrecker to wrecker and hope to find one for the right price and hope it's not already stuffed.

2. The SURE FIRE method is to with the dash out, watch the travel of the motor and stop it just short of it's full travel by screwing in a standard screw into the plastic heater surround in between the motor arm and the bit of plastic at the end of it's travel. In effect you are now just putting the load on a part of the gear system (in the box) that is not worn.

The best way to find this spot is to just hold the arm with your finger just before it fully closes.

of course, eventually this part of the gear system will wear under the strain too.

If you do it right you can still have the full motion of all the vents.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...