Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

ive changed a few pads before and know what pads should look like

anyhow my r33 was making a squealin noise from the one disc since i bought it, so i pulled out the pads, and this is what i have found

b1.jpg

b2.jpg

b3.jpg

obviously the circled metal prong has been scraping the disc and making the noise. it looks like it is there as a marker to let you know that you're getting low on brake pad meat. however it looks like i still have at least 50% left?

am i wrong and r33 pads are meant to be 5-7 times thicker than they are atm?

or should i just forget bend the metal prong away from the disc, and drive away and monitor my brake pads?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168156-brake-pads/
Share on other sites

yeah your pads are about 50% worn. you can bend that wear indicator out of the way if you want, but it's there for a reason. i would personally just buy new pads, but for street use you could get a fair few more kms out of those if the $$ are tight. i wouldn't use them on track though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168156-brake-pads/#findComment-3109476
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For me at least the reason why it bothers me is because it's indicative of a deeper problem. And that will nag at me forever. Especially because I have tailpipe emissions testing + evap leak testing every 2 years.
    • WELP. I went to the track, and I suppose it went okay because any time you can drive home is okay. You may notice the car is not on the circuit in this picture. It was about 35C day out in Benalla which means the track was approximately the surface of the sun, probably. Good things, car did not overheat but it _was_ warmer than when I had done track days in similar heat before, I think, I'm not sure - I can't quite remember. Coolant got to ~105 via the ECU after 20-30 minutes of belting it in said heat. Oil got up to 145C in one instance which is pretty crazy due to oil cooler. Pressures were fine. I seem to remember this not getting quite so high before the vents. More HMMMM'ing to be done. On the subject of HMMM'ing, can anyone identify the sounds in the video below, you will know which ones I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj3BkI2cbTc I included some 'normal' sound as a reference for the first minute or so. The microphone in this instance was where the license plate is. It stopped working later in the day which is why my "best example of a lap video (not produced)" had internal audio - Isn't hearable from inside the car. I don't mean the chirping of the un-bedded/badly bedded track brakes which you can only hear while braking... Thoughts, brains trust?
    • blame old mate Hawkins for that one  I remember way back in the day the japanese didn't want them either... they always assumed a race shell would be thrashed. We found a few when looking for an R34 GTR for the Whites to drive in Targa Tas back in 2002.
    • I know it's probably not going to cause any major engine issues. I just had a more generic concern that it's technically not running right (I guess this means the rpm is not sitting where it technically should be) Though the other thing is, it's that my steering wheel is shaking at 1,100 rpm at idle until it gets warm (seemed to happen after I tightened my alternator belt, will be testing the alternator soon).
    • I mean, what's the concern here? Higher fuel consumption? FWIW my idle sits at around 800rpm or so as well. And yes, it runs fine, idles fine and there are no issues as far as I can tell. I don't quite see the problem.
×
×
  • Create New...