Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dudes

i have rb20det

full inch exhast

600x300x76 intercooler + piping

pod filter

gtr fuel pump

ecu (mines chip)

and just installed new rebuilt rb25det turbo (by steve murch, new bearings still the same wheels)

now before i installed the rb25det the original rb20det turbo was boosting 12psi (about 0.9 bar)

i ran the car for the first time tonight with the rb25det turbo on and the cars power feels the same but its only boosting 0.55 bar???

Should i be buying a boost tap and cranking this to 1 bar (14.7psi)?? and getting what this turbo can really achieve?

have i done something wrong?

if i need a boost tap wat would be the cheapest recommendation???

any help would be great thx

If you didn't swap the wastgate actuators over, that could be it.

and your settings were different bi 0.35bar which is right on 5psi

R32 standard actuator is set to 10psi.

R33 standard actuator is set to 5psi (....i think with the R33 boost solenoid tweaking it to 7psi over 4500)

If that the case (which it looks like it is), spend 20mins swaping the old actuator back in :domokun:

spot on the money birnie.

Since he won't have the 2 stage solenoid, with just an r33 actuator, it runs about 4.5 psi. since he's got a few mods like ic, exhaust etc, it'll run a bit more - that's the 5.5 psi.

pop the 32 actuator in and i won't be suprised with your extra mods if you get 11-12 psi. she'll rip really hard.

spot on the money birnie.

Since he won't have the 2 stage solenoid, with just an r33 actuator, it runs about 4.5 psi. since he's got a few mods like ic, exhaust etc, it'll run a bit more - that's the 5.5 psi.

pop the 32 actuator in and i won't be suprised with your extra mods if you get 11-12 psi. she'll rip really hard.

is it pretty hard to do???

i know how to take pipes off the car and unbolt stuff but do i need to set anything?

cheers

2 bolts to undo on the actuator side, and a 'C' clip on the end where it attatches to the gate.

Put on the R32 one in reverse order and that's it. It should be a straight swap out.

No settings unless you have a boost controller or something to play with

hey dudes

i changed the unit over

and i reset the ecu

boost is now around 10 - 12 psi

but im now loosing power and the engine is slightly popping at 4500 - 5500 rpm

do i need to replace the injectors or fuel regulator or a retune or something?

cheers

FYI,

The spring in the rb25det acuator is 7psi rated. Which is 0.55bar i think?

The 5psi is controlled by the ecu then after 4500rpm it grounds the black wire coming from the elec boost tap deivce and runs 7psi from the actuator.

I ran a rb20 actuator on an r33 turbo and it would run 5psi then after 4500rpm 10-11psi...I cut the black wire going to the ecu and then it never ran 5psi anymore..

Cheers

fyi mzturbo, it is not set at 7 psi. well, not on the stock turbo anyways. With just my stock turbo, I connectected the stock solenoid system up. Because I had exhaust and cooler, I was getting 9psi.

with just the actuator, I was getting 5 psi.

The solenoid is a bleeder. The actuator is 5 psi, it bleeds a little air above 4500 rpm, so it gets a few more psi. not the other way round.

Edited by MANWHORE
boost is now around 10 - 12 psi

but im now loosing power and the engine is slightly popping at 4500 - 5500 rpm

do i need to replace the injectors or fuel regulator or a retune or something?

cheers

the joys of a misfiring skyline

there a billions of threads on misfire

increased boost = harder for spark to jump on plugs = misfiring

solutions? bringing down gaps on plugs = cheapsolution, you still have a weak ignition system

spitfire coil packs = $560 from sliding, it'll fix it

or you could do your own wiring up of igniter's and leads for $100-300, lots more work, theres a few threads about it here and on other sites

intercool is right,

my car done the same thing when is was in R&R mode as it did when it was misfiring.

I had 1.1mm plugs regapped them to 0.6 and the misfiring went completely..

the R&R a tune sorted that out..

ngk bcpr6es which are a .8 gap. It should help with the mis fire unless your coils are absolutely rooted. If it doesn't then either new coils or one of the many fixes that are posted in the maintainence sticky thread.

Dont worry about injectors and regs for now. fix the miss first.

Dude its just a standard RB25 turbo. You really shouldnt need to do much. Just keep gapping the plugs down until it stops miss firing, assuming that sovles the problem. If it does it still means your ignition isnt up to sratch (which is expected as the car is a good 15+yo). You could maybe just put the fuel reg on to be a little safter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As a general rule removing rubber fuel hose is so difficult I would replace it if it hasn't been done in the last 5 years. The risk you damage the liner or one of the inner layers is pretty high if it's not almost brand new. BMW's recommendations around coolant hoses is similar. My R33's fuel hoses at the fuel tank were so perished that they were ready to burst FYI. 
    • Ah yep, will do. Cheers!
    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/15ZMn5oXtc/ Updated Event (so its not private and can be shared easier)  Attempting to coordinate a big push of Stagea's to this years GTR Festival. Great event last year and hoping for the same this year.  Discounted tickets 20% off for their various tickets until the 3rd of Feb Monday. Drags, show and shine etc.  I've emailed them to ask to set a location aside for the Stageas for the show and shine - they are happy to do so if we can get them numbers, I'm happy to keep track of that. Entering as Nismo category.  I'll be road tripping up from Melbourne, would be cool to convey if people are interested, maybe there is SAU convoys from each capital? If you have ideas about that let me know.  https://gtrfestival.com.au  
    • Does have series 2 airbag steering wheel and passenger side airbag also.
×
×
  • Create New...